GM Truck Club
Founded in 2004 ~ We're the #1 Chevy Truck & SUV Forum.
Silverado & Sierra | Tahoe & Yukon | Suburban & Yukon XL | SUV & CROSSOVER
Results 1 to 5 of 5
  1. #1

    Default Chevy Traverse steering clunk and pop sound

    Started to get a steering clunk when turning the wheel at stop or low speed. Seems to happen when the tires are pointed to the left and the turned to the right. More of a feeling like 1mm of slack is taken out ... But there is no play in the wheel and it drives straight and smooth.

    Usually clunking is typically associated with worn bushings in the steering rack / gear. I've also read about issues with the front strut mounts which can cause a clunk but under different steering conditions ... and probably occurs not more than the worn bushing problem.

    Also, I've heard that the worn bushing issue is clear when steering just off-center, in either direction. Since the bushings are worn, moving the steering back and forth rocks the steering rack on its mounts which will create a clunk noise.

    Not really sure which one I should start with. I've seen people getting new steering racks over this ... for now it seems that's totally overkill.

    10 Chevy Traverse LT AWD
    02 Chevy Trailblazer LS (110K+ miles - loaded except for 4WD - WRECKED!)
    99 Chevy Cavalier LS (105K+ miles - commuter car)
    78 Chevy Suburban Silverado (454, 3/4 ton)
    62 GMC 3/4 ton Pickup (350 police interceptor)

    Remember: Search Before Posting | Fill out Your Profile & Signature
    * I've been saying for years that I was going to change my username, and I finally did.

  2. #2


    ... And I think I've heard this over time. The wife had been driving this for the most part so in not sure if it's getting worse ... like maybe worse in cold weather.

  3. #3


    It sounds like when one of the intermediate shafts on the gm trucks needs lubed. The best I could recommend is to lay under the front (or even better get it on a hoist) and have your wife or kids get inside and turn the wheel reproducing the clunk. Then just look for the movement that is causing it.

    1995 Silverado 4x4
    6" BDS Suspension Lift-3" Body Lift-Add A Leaf in rear -Trailmaster SSV Shocks-Duel Steering Stabilizer Kit -AirAid Cold air intake-
    4.56 Gears with Detroit Auburn Locker-Pro-Comp Traction Bars with duel shocks-Aluminum Skid Plate Kit-38.5" x 16.5" Mickey Thompson Baja Claws-Constant Dropping fuel gauge

    2005 Yukon XL Jet Power Programmer, Bilstein Shocks, Bilstein rear springs, Helwig Anti-sway bars, EGR Window Visors, EGR Hood Shield, Denali Headlights, Headlight harness upgrade, GE NightHawk Bulbs, White Night Rear lighting system, Russell Braided SS brake lines, PowerStop Brake pads, PowerStop cross drilled and Slotted Rotors,
    2002 Silverado ext cab 2wd (Sold)
    2003 Yukon XL (Totaled)

  4. #4


    You want me to get under the front end while the wife is inside huh? Lol. She's said that she's wanted to do something like that for a long time.

  5. #5
    Sr. Engineer Dana W's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Chuluota, Florida


    My daughter's truck just had a front suspension collapse that started with a clunk noise. Luckily she had just turned off the road and was doing about 15 mph in a service road when the wheel went down, so she is only ticked off that she has to drive Mom's Volvo V70 for a few days, and not dead.

    Never mind that it is a 1999 Dodge Dakota R/T 5.9 that eats Silverados for breakfast. We won't talk about that part much.

    The truck has rack & pinion and double wishbone w/coils front suspension.

    We had a clunk and what felt like movement in the front suspension when applying the brakes to full stop at very slow speeds, and we had the clunk when steering at very slow speeds.

    I looked all over that thing, checked all the bearings, ball joints, rod ends, and bushings, and discovered that the truck's previous owner had just replaced all 4 ball joints with moog bolt ins that were still tight and even clean, and all the cab mounting pads were new too. I did notice that one of the anti-sway bar mount bushings was pretty squashed and one of the anti-sway bar end links had a cracked and shredded bushing, so I added those to my shopping list and stopped worrying.

    Two days later. We now have a rattle in the front on bumps. One day later, luckily at 15 mph like I said, the passenger side upper ball joint COMES OFF the control arm. The wheel wobbles a couple of times, tucks under and rips the lower ball joint out of its socket and gets jammed between the lower control arm and the inner fender. The truck comes to a stop with the wheel still connected only by the brake soft line (which still isn't broken) and the very very bent up tie rod end assy.

    Moral of the story is, pay attention to steering and suspension clunking noises. They can kill you. Also don't check your ball joints with a pry bar in such a way that the prybar action actually holds the ball joint mount against the control arm. Avoid putting the prybar on top of the ball joint mount. You need to know if that is the loose part.

    Maybe the prior owner in haste didn't put enough torque on the nuts. Maybe he stripped them. Anyway, all three nuts came completely off the ball joint mount leaving three egg shaped mounting holes behind.

    Now we need an upper control arm assy w/ ball joint, a lower ball joint, two sway bar end links, one inner and outer R/P tierod end set, a brake soft line assy, and an alignment. The shop wanted $1,400 to fix it. I can do it for under $400.00 plus the alignment using moog & NAPA stuff.

    Just don't leave anything out, check it all, and then check it all again.

  6. Likes the phantom liked this post

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts