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  1. #1
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    Default U-joint with different bearing sizes ??

    My '97 K1500 extra cab (bought new) has a 1-piece drive shaft from the t-case to the diff. The rear U-joint failed and I discovered it has two different size bearing cups? The diff yoke is for 1-1/8" cups and the shaft yoke has 1-1/16" bores. My local parts store didn't list a 2-size u-joint. Is this a standard GM trick or is my truck a special case? Any reason I couldn't just bore out the shaft to accept 1-1/8" cups? The inside snap rings seem to line up ok - the cups are just too big. Thanks for any wisdom on this.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Ok, I guess I found an answer. The drive shaft was just made that way. The shaft has a fiberglass tube with aluminum ends. I found this listing on eBay - "Firebird Conversion U-Joint 10 12 bolt 1 1/16" Caps x 1 1/8" Caps". There are several other 2-size combination and conversion u-joints listed as well. May ream out the shaft anyway.

  2. #2

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by arby View Post
    My '97 K1500 extra cab (bought new) has a 1-piece drive shaft from the t-case to the diff. The rear U-joint failed and I discovered it has two different size bearing cups? The diff yoke is for 1-1/8" cups and the shaft yoke has 1-1/16" bores. My local parts store didn't list a 2-size u-joint. Is this a standard GM trick or is my truck a special case? Any reason I couldn't just bore out the shaft to accept 1-1/8" cups? The inside snap rings seem to line up ok - the cups are just too big. Thanks for any wisdom on this.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Ok, I guess I found an answer. The drive shaft was just made that way. The shaft has a fiberglass tube with aluminum ends. I found this listing on eBay - "Firebird Conversion U-Joint 10 12 bolt 1 1/16" Caps x 1 1/8" Caps". There are several other 2-size combination and conversion u-joints listed as well. May ream out the shaft anyway.
    In my opinion, reaming the shaft would be a major mistake. Like you said those end caps are aluminum. If GM thought that they could handle the same size caps as the rear pinion yoke then they would have put them in. reaming them out will make the ears of the end yokes on the aluminum cap thinner. I would fear that you might go from a low traction situation, like snow, to dry pavement and crack the ear off that you just reamed. My 1995 has the same setup as yours, I Just bought the right joints when I changed mine. The only issue I have had with mine is that the silicon that my end caps were pulling out of my fiberglass tube.

    1995 Silverado 4x4
    6" BDS Suspension Lift-3" Body Lift-Add A Leaf in rear -Trailmaster SSV Shocks-Duel Steering Stabilizer Kit -AirAid Cold air intake-
    4.56 Gears with Detroit Auburn Locker-Pro-Comp Traction Bars with duel shocks-Aluminum Skid Plate Kit-38.5" x 16.5" Mickey Thompson Baja Claws-Constant Dropping fuel gauge

    2005 Yukon XL Jet Power Programmer, Bilstein Shocks, Bilstein rear springs, Helwig Anti-sway bars, EGR Window Visors, EGR Hood Shield, Denali Headlights, Headlight harness upgrade, GE NightHawk Bulbs, White Night Rear lighting system, Russell Braided SS brake lines, PowerStop Brake pads, PowerStop cross drilled and Slotted Rotors, http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/sho...5-GMC-Yukon-XL
    2002 Silverado ext cab 2wd (Sold)
    2003 Yukon XL (Totaled)

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