

I'm not an expert! I just happen to have recently blackened out my suburban's bow tie and thought I'd share the process. I did a few rounds at a local body shop and learned a thing or two while lending a hand.
The following was done for my 1999 Suburban and the actual taking off and putting on of the emblem will be left up to you to figure out for your particular application.
Removing the bow tie emblem:
With the hood raised, it was pretty obvious to see what screws had to come out in order to reach behind and get at the back side of the emblem. A few screws along the top, a few through the grill, and I was able to give myself the room to work behind the grill and access the two nuts holding the emblem in place. With a small rachet I as able to take the two bolt/caps off the back and just take the emblem off.
Prepping the emblem for paint:
With the emblem off, it's a matter of preparing the surface to paint. This is where a lot of the important stuff happens! 90% of the quality of your paint job is pre-determined before the paint even hits the object. Most auto parts store have scuff pads that are used for auto prep/paint. If you can't find any, use small grit sand paper - 320 or so.
Take the time and scuff the entire surface that is to be painted. You basically want to take the shine off the emblem and give the paint something to stick to.
Once you are done prepping with the scuff pad, wash the emblem with soap and water and let it dry completely. The emblem should appear dull, but with no visible scratches.
This emblem had the cracks in it but no deep scratches. The cracks added to the reasons of why the blackening out was called for.
Mount the emblem on a nice CLEAN piece of cardboard with it sticking up as much as possible while still being secure. If you push the emblem flat on the cardboard you risk it sticking and you will not be able to get a good angle to paint the edges. I poked a few holes with an awl and pushed the pegs of the emblem in partway.
If you are picky, and you should be, clean the surface one last time. If you happen to have thinner, great! Rubbing alcohol? That will do! Swipe the painting surfaces with a paper towel damped with either the thinner or alcohol. This will help take your prints and any oil left from your fingers off the surface. Let the thinner/alcohol comletely evaporate before you paint- but use it sparingly... no need to slop it on, you just want to wipe the surface clean.
If you are super picky, and I suggest you be, spray on a light coat of Bulldogg adhesive promoter. No matter how good a job you did prepping the surface, Bulldog will ensure that your paint job lasts a long time!
Last edited by Springthing; 12-09-2008 at 09:45 AM. Reason: typo!


Now, you are ready to paint!
Repeat after me: L I G H T C O A T S ! ! ! !
Take your time, and don't rush! There is no need whatsoever to rush the painting. Follow the instructions on the can. Basically, the steps for all spray painting is to let the paint dry for approximately 10 minutes between coats. DO THAT! You will NOT be happy with how your painting comes out if you rush it. This is the 2nd of 5 coats given to my emblem.
Leave the emblem alone for an overnight drying! I don't CARE if the label says "dry to the touch in 20 minutes", don't touch it! Once it is completely dry it will be able to withstand your holding it and pressing on it which will come when you get to re-installing it in place!
Pop that sucker back into place, put the screws back on to hold the grill, and stand back to admire your work.
It's a dirty truck, but it matches the semi-glossy finish of the paint I chose to ready the suburban for my next black tie affair.


Nice write up!![]()
Matt
Hallsville, TX
2005 Silverado 1500 LS Crew Cab 5.3L 2WD
K&N FIPK II
Magnaflow Exhaust
Hypertech Max Energy Programmer
Suspension Leveling Kit
Putco Element Window Visors
Carriage Works Billet Grille
TruXedo TruXport Tonneau Cover
Thanks so much for the in-depth steps, it will help a lot.
Jon- North Carolina
2001 Chevy Silverado(loaded, Z-71)
*2" Leveling-Kit(Rough Country)
*33" Nitto Terra-Grapplers w/ 17in Dick Cepek DC-1 Blacks
*AEM Brute Force Air-Intake
*Custom Exhaust:
Flowmaster 10-series Muffler:
3-1/2" dual angle-cut tips coming out before right rear tire
Also with the addition of a "cut-out"
*Completely re-done sound system
2005 Chevy Tahoe(laoded Z-71)
*daily driver
Great info, but does anyone know how to remove the emblem off an 08 GMC? It doesn't have the "nuts" threaded onto the posts. It looks like it might be glued, but I'm not sure and hate to rip it off and break it.
not sure...but, i just did my 08 bowtie and used a mirror to see just how it was attached before i tried prying or anything else.
2008 Silverado 1500 LTZ 2WD 5.3 AFM/flex
Ground Force 2" lowering shackles. Silver front bowtie, removed rear bowtie (pain in the A$$) and ugly flexfuel emblem.
Tinted windows.
Kenwood DNX7120 navigation w/bluetooth, steering wheel controls, ipod, backup camera installed inside tailgate "fin/spoiler thing"
Awesome write up. I am VERY new to trucks (I'm like 24 hours old lol) so I have been wandering what to do it for cheap. I like this![]()
2007 Silverado LS 4x4 1500 | 4.8L Vortec | Crew Cab
SGT Davis - US Army POW-MIA You are not forgotten...
good write up. Is there a reason you didnt use a clear coat? i just smoked my tail lights. I smoked them and then clear coated them. they looked good, but then i wet sanded, compounded, and waxed, and they look a million times better. you should try it.
Great write up thanks for adding the pictures.
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