GM Truck Club
THE PREMIER CHEVY TRUCK & SUV FORUM
Founded in 2004 ~ We're the #1 Chevy Truck & SUV Forum.
Silverado & Sierra | Tahoe & Yukon | Suburban & Yukon XL | SUV & CROSSOVER
Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 24
  1. #11

    Default

    Im repainting my int. to match ext, ill pic post when i tear her apart if it helps any with the ext cab tear down.
    ИorτнRoαdΛĸ907
    2004 Silverado 1500 - 5.3L V8 Z71 EXT. CAB (DD)
    Sadly Shes Mostly Still Stock...
    Custom Painted Spyder Halo Headlights w/ LED 194 Replacements
    CP EBAY Bumper Lights w/ LED 194 Replacements
    CP LED Tail lights - LED 3RD Break Light
    De"badged" Tail Gate

  2. #12
    Sr. Apprentice jmutto's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Washington State
    Posts
    61

    Default

    Thanks MWright, this is gonna help alot!

    One question; what is the rocker switch just below your mirror adjustment control? My truck does not have that rocker switch.
    "Sometimes, a little brain damage helps" - George Carlin

    2004 Chevy Silverado 1500 Extended Cab "Northwest Edition"



    Volant CAI
    Optima red top
    Westin chrome side steps
    Leer 100XL cap
    Line-x bed liner
    Cat back
    Panasonic DVD headunit
    Alpine amp & sub
    Garmin Nuvi 255 GPS
    Viper 900 alarm with remote start
    ScanGauge II
    Sirius Stratus 6 satellite radio
    BetterBuilt fender well box

  3. #13

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jmutto View Post
    Thanks MWright, this is gonna help alot!

    One question; what is the rocker switch just below your mirror adjustment control? My truck does not have that rocker switch.
    That is the window control lockout switch. It's that switch that parents use when they're tired of their kids playing with the power windows in the back seats, rolling them up and down.
    Christopher

    1991 Chevy Suburban 1/2 ton 2WD w/ chevy SBC 350-3/4 ton drivetrain upgrade w/4.10 gears 200K miles
    2005 Saturn ION-2 Stock 265K miles
    1982 Bronco, 1993 Bronco (sold), 1971 M35A2 Deuce and a Half



    There are 10 kinds of people, those who understand binary, and those who dont...

    Remember kids, the only difference between screwing around and science is writing it down- Adam Savage

  4. #14
    Sr. Apprentice jmutto's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Washington State
    Posts
    61

    Default

    Oh that explains it....my truck is an extended cab so I don't have rear windows that go down.

    Thanks! I was starting to look around for a new switch assembly! LOL.
    "Sometimes, a little brain damage helps" - George Carlin

    2004 Chevy Silverado 1500 Extended Cab "Northwest Edition"



    Volant CAI
    Optima red top
    Westin chrome side steps
    Leer 100XL cap
    Line-x bed liner
    Cat back
    Panasonic DVD headunit
    Alpine amp & sub
    Garmin Nuvi 255 GPS
    Viper 900 alarm with remote start
    ScanGauge II
    Sirius Stratus 6 satellite radio
    BetterBuilt fender well box

  5. #15

    Default

    Nice write up, helped out alot!
    Tom

    06 Silverado 4x4
    Westin bars
    GM hood guard
    Extang tonneau cover
    Catback exhaust
    3.5in SS tips
    K&N Cold air intake


    previous:
    05 Colorado Z71

  6. #16

    Default

    Great thread! I just installed new speakers today and this helped out a whole lot! Thanks!
    MY LUG NUTS REQUIRE MORE TORQUE THAN YOUR RICER MAKES! :sign0011:

    2004 Silverado 2500 "Judas"
    Crew Cab and Short Bed
    6.0L Vortec
    Diablo Predator
    True Dual Exhaust: Hooker MaxFlow Mufflers and X-Pipe
    Drop-In K&N Air Filter
    Alpine Stereo System: iDA-x303 Deck, SPS-600 Front and Rear Speakers, KTP-445 Amplifier

    Future Upgrades Include:
    Cosmetic/Other: Spray-In Bed Liner, HID head lights, Leveling Kit
    Performance: Underdrive Pulleys

  7. #17

    Default

    Nice Writeup!
    "If orange juice had armpits, maybe."
    -the wife in reference to the smell of JOOSE

  8. #18

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by MWright936 View Post
    I just finished removing and reinstalling my driver's side door panel on my truck. It took me forever to figure everything out, so I thought I would share my new found knowledge. Unfortunately, I was here by myself, so I didn't have enough hands to take pictures of the progress. I just took one picture and labeled the items I'm describing. Hopefully that will be enough. I have power windows, locks, and mirrors, so I'm not sure how it would be different for the models with manual controls.

    Note: The first 7 steps do not have to be performed in any particular order.



    1. Remove the triangular shaped panel behind the side-view mirror (A). It is held in place by two clips, so just gently pull it back, work your fingers under the panel, and pull firmly. Be careful not to break it.

    2. Pry off the door lock cover (B) with a flathead screw driver or other flat object then remove the screw behind it.

    3. Remove the plastic plug in the middle of the hinge side of the panel (C). These can be a pain. I had a cheap, plastic putty knife that I cut a groove out of the middle to make a pry tool. It worked well. If you don't have a puller for these, just work around it slowly pulling it out.

    4. Remove the screw hiding behind the door pull/arm rest on the left side (D). I used a 7mm bit driver, but I think a 9/32" will work too.

    5. Remove the cap in the middle of the latch side of the panel (E) to reveal a torx head screw and remove that(used a T20 size bit).

    6. Pry off the trim piece around the door handle (F). It comes off fairly easily.

    7. Remove the screw in the middle of the bottom of the panel (G). This is another 7mm screw and holds in the storage container (H), which can now be removed (just pull it out).

    8. Being careful of the wires attached to the panel, lift and pull it slightly away from the door. Remove the wire and bulb from the light in the bottom corner of the panel (I). When I did this , I pulled at an angle and the bulb popped off of the end of the plug. It was a pain to fish back out of the light housing, so pull lightly and straight out and the bulb should come with it.

    9. Now you have a choice. You can reach behind the door panel under the power door, window, and mirror control panel (J) and unplug the wires blindly. This may or may not be possible if you haven't seen how they're plugged in to begin with because some of them are tricky to release. The other option is to get down and look on the under side of the control panel (on the back side of the door panel) and remove the screw (another 7mm) that holds it in place. You can then pull the control panel out from the door panel (it is still held in place by a clip on the bottom side) and look at the wires to unplug them.

    After all of that, your door panel should now be free. Now you can replace your speaker or whatever it is you needed to do. It sure was a pain the first time, but now that I've done it once, it won't take nearly as long the next time. The reason I went into detail with the power door, window, and mirror control panel is because I read in my Haynes manual that it was held in place by two clips and pulls right out. I found out the hard way, there was a freakin screw on one side! I ended up tearing it out. Whoops. I didn't damage things that badly though, and I can still replace the screw.

    I hope this will help someone!

    ***Note: My truck came with tweeters in the front doors, which also had a plug that had to be removed before the door panel was free.
    Hi, I'm new to the forum and was wondering if you had to replace the tweeters in your truck as well. I have the bose system in a 2004 Silverado and want to replace the tweeters but not sure how to take the plastic molding off above the dash along the window.

    I would appreciate any help.
    Thanks

  9. #19

    Default

    Thank you very much, it was a lot of help.
    I had to replace the passenger side mirror and even though I replaced the one on the drivers side several years ago I could not remember where all the screws were.

    Again thank you
    Chris

  10. #20

    Default

    That's why i love 99-06 sierras and silverados. They are literally the easiest door panels to take off. Replace speakers is a 15 min job. The 07 nbs and up aren't so easy. Their a lil more difficult to pull off but you pretty much have to use spacers. I like the nbs pickup, all the panels are so tight which is good but god i hate workin in the doors. 99-06 pickups are easy to put anything in, decks, speakers, sat, and even remote starts. Id be in heaven if those were the only cars i worked on

Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. 07 Silverado door panel lights flashing
    By Scott51 in forum GM Electrical Tech
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 12-13-2010, 03:21 AM
  2. Remove rear door panel on 2002 tahoe
    By rgonline in forum Chevy Tahoe Forum (GMC Yukon, Cadillac Escalade)
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 12-20-2009, 01:09 PM
  3. 1997 silverado rear door panel
    By mytruck in forum Chevy Silverado Forum (GMC Sierra)
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 08-22-2009, 11:10 PM
  4. how to remove 2008 silverdao manual door panel?
    By demoRod in forum Chevy Silverado Forum (GMC Sierra)
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 01-17-2009, 10:19 PM
  5. hey all how does the door panel come off in a 2000 silverado 1500
    By Bbad in forum Audio, Video & Gadget Tech
    Replies: 8
    Last Post: 12-28-2008, 04:09 AM

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •