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  1. #1

    Default Best OBD1 tool and how to use it?

    I've put in a new TBI engine in my 89 burb.

    of course the CEL is now on. I'd like to check the codes.

    I can find a number of OBD1 scanners on line for sale from $40 to $200. Which are best?

    also, how do they work, the cheaper ones don't seem to have a display??? should they all have a display? Or do some need to be plugged into a computer?

  2. #2

    Default

    bump.
    These are all questions I have too.
    2000 Silverado 1500 ext. cab

  3. #3
    Master Mechanic
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Brandon, FLA
    Posts
    749
    Blog Entries
    1

    Default

    A 6 inch lead made of good 12g wire with two slim aligator clips plugged into terms A and B and let the CEL do what its suppose to. When it flashes the 12 code(3 times) then any stored codes. This gives you the same results and a good manual with have the codes for the vehicle listed in the Emission section.
    The OBD2 readers provide more as there are more codes to scan and read. There are not that many for OBD1.


    Jeff
    JMoney02

  4. #4

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by JMoney02 View Post
    A 6 inch lead made of good 12g wire with two slim aligator clips plugged into terms A and B and let the CEL do what its suppose to. When it flashes the 12 code(3 times) then any stored codes. This gives you the same results and a good manual with have the codes for the vehicle listed in the Emission section.
    The OBD2 readers provide more as there are more codes to scan and read. There are not that many for OBD1.


    Jeff
    Jeff, you are giving me WAY too much credit, I'm not as smart as you think I am!

    Could you explain a little better? So I just jump terminals A and B (where are these terminals?) with a piece of wire and based on how many times the CEL light flashes this is some type of code?

    What do you mean "When it flashes the 12 code (3 times) then any stored codes."

    And it sounds like maybe my Haynes manual will have codes in it? Will it also explain the procedure that you mention above for reading the codes? (I'll check when I get home)

    thanks for your help!!
    Nate

  5. #5

    Default

    The terminals he is talking about is in you ALDL connector under the edge of the dash on the driver's side. When you put the wire (I use a large paper clip) between terminals A and B, the check engine light will begin to flash. It will flash two digit codes. The first code will be code 12, which is denoted by a flash then a short pause then two flashes. After this, it will have another pause and then flash the same things twice more. It will flash each code 3 times and then have a longer pause and move to the next code. As an example, a display of 3 flashes, pause then 4 flashes is a code 34. You can decode the codes here ( http://www.troublecodes.net/GM/ ), just select your year and engine size and it will give you a list of codes.


    Here is how the ALDL terminals are laid out:
    Gary

    99 K 1500 Suburban
    78 Silverado Big 10 w/factory 454
    00 S-10 Blazer
    1976 Trans Am
    1980 Honda CB900 Custom

  6. #6

    Default

    Holy Buckaroos!! that is awesome! I cannot wait to try it! Thanks a ton Gary!

  7. #7
    Legend

    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    East of Branson, Missouri
    Posts
    2,788
    Blog Entries
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    Default

    May as well post my question along with this one, seeing as it's kind of the same question.

    Regarding OBD scanners... I have been looking into getting the laptop versions. They come with the connectors that has the USB on the other end, and has software to do the code reading.

    Has anyone ever used this type of scanner before? Currently use it now? Do you think it offers more (or more easily) options than the handhelds that cost 3,4, and 5 times as much?
    Steven



    "The Sarge"
    1999 Chevy Suburban LT- K2500
    7.4 454 Vortec, 4WD
    305/70/16 on Eagle Alloy




  8. #8
    Jr. Mechanic
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Wylie, Texas, United States
    Posts
    105

    Default

    Mr. Gary.

    My truck is still not fixed; however I feel like a kid with a new toy. I was able to get a code from my 95 chevy P/U with a plethora of problems.

    Of course in Texas the code makes no sense;
    15 Coolant temperature sensor signal indicates a temperature colder than -27 F for 30 seconds after the engine has been running for at least 30 seconds.
    But at least I can read codes now. This is a new temperature sensor that I installed recently.

    Back to the drawing board, but thanks for this information.


    [QUOTE=GaryL;81590]The terminals he is talking about is in you ALDL connector under the edge of the dash on the driver's side. When you put the wire (I use a large paper clip) between terminals A and B, the check engine light will begin to flash. It will flash two digit codes. The first code will be code 12, which is denoted by a flash then a short pause then two flashes. After this, it will have another pause and then flash the same things twice more. It will flash each code 3 times and then have a longer pause and move to the next code. As an example, a display of 3 flashes, pause then 4 flashes is a code 34. You can decode the codes here ( http://www.troublecodes.net/GM/ ), just select your year and engine size and it will give you a list of codes.
    95 Chevy Silverado
    Beat up by hail and a faulty tow truck
    5.7L V-8
    251,000 miles


  9. #9

    Default

    If I'm not mistaken, there are two coolant temp sensors. One in the driver's side head that goes to the gauge on the dash and another near the thermostat housing that is for the computer. The latter should be the one causing the code. If it is new, it is either faulty or you have a broken wire somewhere.
    Gary

    99 K 1500 Suburban
    78 Silverado Big 10 w/factory 454
    00 S-10 Blazer
    1976 Trans Am
    1980 Honda CB900 Custom

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