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  1. #1

    Default Wheel bearing/Hub assembly replacement - front

    This is my first post on here so I figured I would make it useful. I used this site to try and figure out an issue with my truck and this was one thing I thought to try.

    This was on a 2002 Sierra 2WD Ext. Cab. Overall difficulty was maybe a 5 out of 10. Not too tough just had to deal with getting the bolts to loosen up. A little WD-40 helped that after it soaked for a while.

    First thing was to loosen the lugnuts then jack up the side that you are wanting to replace. and place a jack stand under it then remove the tire.

    Next thing to remove is the brake caliper. There are two bolts on the back side of the caliper. Once you have removed the bolts move it up out of the way. You can use wire to keep it from falling as I did.


    Once the caliper is up out of the way you can slide off the rotor. Mine had two thin retainer clips on the wheel studs that held the rotor in place. Once you get those off the rotor should slide right off.

    I turned my wheel all the way to the right to allow easier access to the 3 bolts that hold the hub assembly in. Shown below.


    These bolts may be tough to get out. One broke loose fairly easily, the other teo however wanted to be difficult. I sprayed them with WD-40 and let them sit for a couple beers then they came out.
    When I attempted to pull the top bolt out it was stuck on another bolt that hung in the way. You can see it in the picture above. I used a dremel to take a little off the end of the bolt in the way and it slid right out.

    Once these bolts are all loose ensure that you loosen the ABS cable with an allen key while the hub is in place to help break it free. Now you can use a rubber mallet to strike the back side of the piece the studs are mounted to to work the assembly loose. Once it is free make sure you remove the ABS cable before it falls.

    Once the assembly is out it should look like this.


    You can use some steel wool to clean any debris out of the opening.

    You can now begin to reassemble. Make sure you put the guard back on correctly or the rotor will rub on it and youll have to disasemble and reassemble again. (I did it) You may need to use a C-clamp to compress the brake caliper to get it back over the rotor. ensure you pump your brakes AFTER it is all together prior to driving anywhere.

    Overall it wasn't too bad. It took me about an hour and a half taking my time and enjoying a couple Bud Lights.

    Anyone with any input or suggestions please let me know so I can add it to this post.

  2. #2
    Legend

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    Good first post - well done!
    Steven



    "The Sarge"
    1999 Chevy Suburban LT- K2500
    7.4 454 Vortec, 4WD
    305/70/16 on Eagle Alloy




  3. #3

    Default

    Welcome to the site! Nicely done!
    Scott

    ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ

    '94 Chevy Suburban K1500
    3" exhaust w/ aero turbine non-baffled muffler
    CFM Technologies TB spacer
    CB w/ 44" whip antenna


  4. #4

    Default

    I replaced my wheel hub assembly's last sat on a 4x4. if by chance you do have rubbing on the rotor from the dust covers, you can bend them by hand instead of taking it back off.
    6" BDS Suspension Lift / 3" Body Lift / 38x15.50x20 Dick Cepek FCII on 20x12 Dick Cepek DC-1 (summer set) / 325/80/16 Dick Cepek FCII on 16x8 American Racing Diamond Back (winter set) / Hypertech Power Programmer III / Air Max Spiral Flow Air Intake / / 80mm Granetelli MAF / 80mm BBK Throttle Body / Helix Power Tower Plus Throttle Body Spacer / 2 Turbonators / Edelbrock Shorty Headers / 30 Series Flowmaster / 4.56 gears /

  5. #5

    Default One more little thing

    I replaced the front hub and bearing assembly on my 2004 Silverado 1/2 ton 2WD today. The only thing I would add to your excellent post is that the new hub assembly came with the speed sensor as well. All that I had to do was unplug the old (at the top of the suspension assembly) pull the old wire out of it's anchor holes and push the new wire into place. The new wire had the plastic anchors and rubber bushings already attached. The hardest part of the whole deal was getting the old hub off!! Thank you for the pictures. This post helped me with the process.

  6. #6

    Default

    I didn't realize the new onecame with the cable. I didn't have enough money to get a new one at the time so I purchased a used one from a junkyard. They cut the cable when they took it off.

  7. #7

    Default Tools needed?

    hello,
    This is my first time on this blog and first time doing any serious work to my truck to be honest. What all tools do I need to replace my front wheel assembly. i know a jack and a floor jack, an allen tool, but what did you use to actually remove the bolts? is it possible to do it using just a hand tool or do i need something that will have to be plugged in and has some power behind it?



    Quote Originally Posted by mike04rr View Post
    This is my first post on here so I figured I would make it useful. I used this site to try and figure out an issue with my truck and this was one thing I thought to try.

    This was on a 2002 Sierra 2WD Ext. Cab. Overall difficulty was maybe a 5 out of 10. Not too tough just had to deal with getting the bolts to loosen up. A little WD-40 helped that after it soaked for a while.

    First thing was to loosen the lugnuts then jack up the side that you are wanting to replace. and place a jack stand under it then remove the tire.

    Next thing to remove is the brake caliper. There are two bolts on the back side of the caliper. Once you have removed the bolts move it up out of the way. You can use wire to keep it from falling as I did.


    Once the caliper is up out of the way you can slide off the rotor. Mine had two thin retainer clips on the wheel studs that held the rotor in place. Once you get those off the rotor should slide right off.

    I turned my wheel all the way to the right to allow easier access to the 3 bolts that hold the hub assembly in. Shown below.


    These bolts may be tough to get out. One broke loose fairly easily, the other teo however wanted to be difficult. I sprayed them with WD-40 and let them sit for a couple beers then they came out.
    When I attempted to pull the top bolt out it was stuck on another bolt that hung in the way. You can see it in the picture above. I used a dremel to take a little off the end of the bolt in the way and it slid right out.

    Once these bolts are all loose ensure that you loosen the ABS cable with an allen key while the hub is in place to help break it free. Now you can use a rubber mallet to strike the back side of the piece the studs are mounted to to work the assembly loose. Once it is free make sure you remove the ABS cable before it falls.

    Once the assembly is out it should look like this.


    You can use some steel wool to clean any debris out of the opening.

    You can now begin to reassemble. Make sure you put the guard back on correctly or the rotor will rub on it and youll have to disasemble and reassemble again. (I did it) You may need to use a C-clamp to compress the brake caliper to get it back over the rotor. ensure you pump your brakes AFTER it is all together prior to driving anywhere.

    Overall it wasn't too bad. It took me about an hour and a half taking my time and enjoying a couple Bud Lights.

    Anyone with any input or suggestions please let me know so I can add it to this post.

  8. #8

    Default

    If memory serves me right, I changed one out with my dad quite a few years back and we had to grind the boltheads off because we couln't free them. that was a pain.

    as far as tools, I think a breaker bar and regular hand tools should do it...has anybody had better luck with one brand of bearings over another? or one auto parts store or online over another. I've got to replace mine soon.

    great photos and write up...
    89 chevy stepside off road
    03 suburban Z71
    03 Yukon SLT

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