GM Truck Club
Founded in 2004 ~ We're the #1 Chevy Truck & SUV Forum.
Silverado & Sierra | Tahoe & Yukon | Suburban & Yukon XL | SUV & CROSSOVER
Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 11 to 15 of 15
  1. #11


    this is why i went from 36X15's to 34X10's. it was an average of every oil change i had to swap hubs. if the cost for parts wasnt bad enough it was destroying to tires to. if i ever go bigger again its going to be with a solid axle swap. since i really enjoy the ifs ride i dont think ill be going bigger any time soon.
    94 sub 6inch lift 34inch bfg mt. massive rework project soon. the audio system hit 150.3db so now its time to rebuild and try for 155db. mudpuppy is also getting a new engine, rebuilt ifs, dual 500amp 15.1vdc alts, 5 5,000amp batts, ant the combined wattage with the new system should be close to 15,000watts. this is going to be a wild ride boy and girls.

  2. #12


    nice post. HEY about some nice pictures of you burban ?!!!!!! LOOKS COOL !

    1996 Suburban K3500 SLT DUALLY
    1988 Camaro RS 383 stroker LT1
    1992 32' Aero-tek Race Boat, 600 CI BBC

  3. #13

    Default Tools needed?

    This is my first time on this blog and first time doing any serious work to my truck to be honest. What all tools do I need to replace my front wheel assembly. i know a jack and a floor jack, an allen tool, but what did you use to actually remove the bolts? is it possible to do it using just a hand tool or do i need something that will have to be plugged in and has some power behind it?

    Quote Originally Posted by mike04rr View Post
    This is my first post on here so I figured I would make it useful. I used this site to try and figure out an issue with my truck and this was one thing I thought to try.

    This was on a 2002 Sierra 2WD Ext. Cab. Overall difficulty was maybe a 5 out of 10. Not too tough just had to deal with getting the bolts to loosen up. A little WD-40 helped that after it soaked for a while.

    First thing was to loosen the lugnuts then jack up the side that you are wanting to replace. and place a jack stand under it then remove the tire.

    Next thing to remove is the brake caliper. There are two bolts on the back side of the caliper. Once you have removed the bolts move it up out of the way. You can use wire to keep it from falling as I did.

    Once the caliper is up out of the way you can slide off the rotor. Mine had two thin retainer clips on the wheel studs that held the rotor in place. Once you get those off the rotor should slide right off.

    I turned my wheel all the way to the right to allow easier access to the 3 bolts that hold the hub assembly in. Shown below.

    These bolts may be tough to get out. One broke loose fairly easily, the other teo however wanted to be difficult. I sprayed them with WD-40 and let them sit for a couple beers then they came out.
    When I attempted to pull the top bolt out it was stuck on another bolt that hung in the way. You can see it in the picture above. I used a dremel to take a little off the end of the bolt in the way and it slid right out.

    Once these bolts are all loose ensure that you loosen the ABS cable with an allen key while the hub is in place to help break it free. Now you can use a rubber mallet to strike the back side of the piece the studs are mounted to to work the assembly loose. Once it is free make sure you remove the ABS cable before it falls.

    Once the assembly is out it should look like this.

    You can use some steel wool to clean any debris out of the opening.

    You can now begin to reassemble. Make sure you put the guard back on correctly or the rotor will rub on it and youll have to disasemble and reassemble again. (I did it) You may need to use a C-clamp to compress the brake caliper to get it back over the rotor. ensure you pump your brakes AFTER it is all together prior to driving anywhere.

    Overall it wasn't too bad. It took me about an hour and a half taking my time and enjoying a couple Bud Lights.

    Anyone with any input or suggestions please let me know so I can add it to this post.

  4. #14


    If memory serves me right, I changed one out with my dad quite a few years back and we had to grind the boltheads off because we couln't free them. that was a pain.

    as far as tools, I think a breaker bar and regular hand tools should do it...has anybody had better luck with one brand of bearings over another? or one auto parts store or online over another. I've got to replace mine soon.

    great photos and write up...
    89 chevy stepside off road
    03 suburban Z71
    03 Yukon SLT

  5. #15


    this is a good post. a little different on my 2003 4X4. my axle nut was 36mm and I needed a 15 mm socket to get the wheel bearing off. it was a fight to get the bearing off, but I got it...sure beats paying the garage to do it for me.
    89 chevy stepside off road
    03 suburban Z71
    03 Yukon SLT

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Similar Threads

  1. Wheel bearing assembly torque specs
    By 98tahoe in forum General Chevy & GM Tech Questions
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 02-14-2012, 12:50 PM
  2. Front Wheel hub bearing exploded......
    By Dactyl in forum Chevy Silverado Forum (GMC Sierra)
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 07-25-2010, 12:09 AM
  3. 03 Astro Front Wheel Bearing
    By bgbird in forum Chevy Uplander & GM Minivan Forum
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 10-15-2009, 08:24 AM
  4. 99 tahoe front wheel bearing
    By bassalive in forum Lifted & Offroad Suspension
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 01-30-2009, 10:11 AM
  5. Front Wheel Bearing replacment
    By jdsdls in forum Lifted & Offroad Suspension
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 03-17-2008, 07:15 AM

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts