I've been having persistent problems with my '99 silverado - when I start up in the morning, it seems to idle fine but when I take off, it begins to kick and miss and run really rough. Sometimes it will sort itself out but sometimes it won't. I've had the fuel pump, ignition module, plugs, ignition wires replaced but the problem persists. I've been told to check the fuel pressure regulator but I need to find a diagram of where it is: I've looked at a couple of sites - but the diagrams don't look like my engine. I've begun to think the engine is a '98 model rather than a '99. It was purchased in early 1999.
Two questions: is there any easy way for me to tell what model year the engine is (it's a 4.3 l engine)?
If so, will I need to remove the intake manifold to get at the FPR?
Many thanks.
If your FPR is in the same place as it is on my 2000 5.3L, this link told me step for step how to take care of the issue. I had the same exact symptoms as you... now I'm perfectly fine about 50 bucks and 10 minutes later.
http://www.saltedwound.com/archives/...rado-yourself/
Hopefully you won't to remove your IM. My FPR was right on the passenger side fuel rail.
2007 Silverado LS 4x4 1500 | 4.8L Vortec | Crew Cab
SGT Davis - US Army POW-MIA You are not forgotten...
That's what's making me crazy - I can't find the d***d thing - when I look at my engine, the fuel rail seems to be buried. Mine is a 4.3 l engine too - but when I looked at the online manuals on the Ohio library site, my intake manifold doesn't look anything like the '99 diagram - but looks more like the '98. For the '98 model, the manual says I have to pull the upper intake manifold off - but I'll feel like a prime fool if I do that and still don't find the FPR.
If you're sure that the engine you see under your hood is not the one you're seeing online for your year, shoot a picture and let us see. That's kind of strange but very possible that someone has made a swap in the past.
2007 Silverado LS 4x4 1500 | 4.8L Vortec | Crew Cab
SGT Davis - US Army POW-MIA You are not forgotten...
Thanks sd2702
I'm a little new at this but I've attached a couple of photos of the engine from right side and left side - with the intake housing removed.
Again, this is a 4.3 engine in a '99 model. It was originally purchased in late '98/early 1999
Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
and Happy New Year...
[IMG]file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Don/Desktop/P1000681.JPG[/IMG]
My first thought is: why are we spending all this time looking for the FPR itself when testing the FPr mo9stly requires finding the test port in the supply line (kind of looks like a tire stem or AC test port) and attaching a fuel pressure gauge to it.
In the second picture, I can see the fuel supply and return lines (not sure which is which) coming into the top of the fuel meter body just behind the throttle body. I don't see the test port, but it should be right there somewhere in one of those lines.
FWIW, it looks a lot like the fuel meter body on my '98, and I would expect the FPR to be down inside the intake, just below where the fuel lines come out.
'98 K1500 Suburban LS 5.7 L 4L60E NV246 ARB
'92 Ford Explorer XLT 4x4 4.0 L A4LD BW13-54 Trac-loc rear
"My toys were the greasy cogs and springs and pistons that lay around all over the place, and these, I can promise you, were far more fun to play with than most of the plastic rubbish children are given nowadays." Danny in Roald Dahl's Danny The Champion of the World
Hi Mr. Shorty,
Thanks for your post - I guess at this point, it's simply knowing what I'm dealing with as much as anything else. I've seen a number of posts indicating that it was a gut-simple test and fix for the '99 engines - pull the vac line, check for gas, and spend 15 mins replacing if that was the culprit - in which case I'm a complete blockhead for being unable to find the bldy thing. If it's a '98, then maybe there's hope for me...
In which case: what's a good place to look for a fuel pressure meter; what's it likely to cost; and do I need to test the truck on the road or can I test it parked (it seems to idle fine, and miss and buck mostly when I'm trying to make a modest acceleration); etc?
Regards
DT
Any self-respecting parts store will carry a fuel pressure tester. I paid ~$40 several years ago at Pep Boys. I've seen the same one at Autozone for about the same. Harbor Freight sells one for $10-15, though I don't know about quality.
Basic fuel pressure test involves hooking up the gauge, turning the key on to see what pressure the pump generates (My '98 calls for ~60 psi, I expect your '99 is the same). Start the engine, the fuel pressure should be within a few psi of the engine off value.Goose the throttle, and the pressure should increase slightly then back to the idle value. When the pump shuts off, the system should hold pressure for a significant chunk of time.
'98 K1500 Suburban LS 5.7 L 4L60E NV246 ARB
'92 Ford Explorer XLT 4x4 4.0 L A4LD BW13-54 Trac-loc rear
"My toys were the greasy cogs and springs and pistons that lay around all over the place, and these, I can promise you, were far more fun to play with than most of the plastic rubbish children are given nowadays." Danny in Roald Dahl's Danny The Champion of the World
2 words. FUEL FILTER!......I have seen this same problem on a few of the shreiff office tahoes and trucks. Either the idle problem or it runs fine till floored and engine just dies or cant get over 2k rpms. Plugged 20 buck fuel filter.
Mark - Phoenix
97 Chevy Silverado X-Cab
86 Monte Carlo SS
72 Chevelle Convertible
I too can't get over 2K RPM or it dies - even going at 70MPH (hils are hard to climb and forget about passing) I will have to go change the filter.
The irony is that we went to pick up the truck, it was running, gf wanted to see the baby, and we asked for the truck to be turned off. After we were done visiting tried to start the truck and it would not it cranked and cranked and cranked, to the point of almost killing the battery. So I gave up yanked the battery charged it returned the next day and it almost but started right up, alittle difficult but it started. Then I drove it 35 miles it did not sputter but I had to coax it up to 70 ... even 80 (leagal at places in TX) - again I could not pass and had trouble climbing hills. (sorry to be so chatty)
I will go buy a filter and post my results back, I promise I will be briefer![]()
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