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  1. #1

    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    East of Branson, Missouri
    Blog Entries

    Default 4WD Selector Switch Module - Opened up to see inside

    Recently replaced the switch module (push-button 4wd) so I opened the old one to see how the inside looked. There was a post recently on changing out the lights on the gauge cluster and figured I'd see if it was possible and how easy or not it would be to do the same to items like the switch module. Seems like it would be easily done.

    So, just for your reference, here's what the inside looks like!

    (btw, the switch module is taken out of the dash by carefully using some flat-head screw drivers to push the side tabs in and prying out the module. One tab per side directly in the middle.)

    A little difficult to see, but there is a red LED for the neutral indicator, four LEDs for the switch selector indicators, and two bulbs to light the buttons up when the lights/dash lights are on.


    "The Sarge"
    1999 Chevy Suburban LT- K2500
    7.4 454 Vortec, 4WD
    305/70/16 on Eagle Alloy

  2. #2


    Can you see any indication why these switches seem so prone to trouble? From other research, it seems that the problem GM had with the wiper circuit board was due to the cold solder they used on the circuit cracking. I was just wondering if maybe these have a similar problem or what is up.
    '98 K1500 Suburban LS 5.7 L 4L60E NV246 ARB
    '92 Ford Explorer XLT 4x4 4.0 L A4LD BW13-54 Trac-loc rear
    "My toys were the greasy cogs and springs and pistons that lay around all over the place, and these, I can promise you, were far more fun to play with than most of the plastic rubbish children are given nowadays." Danny in Roald Dahl's Danny The Champion of the World

  3. #3

    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    East of Branson, Missouri
    Blog Entries


    Hmm... I didn't think to look that closely at it.

    My issue was something to do with the wires/plugs/incoming connections. I'll have to take a closer look to see if I can diagnose what was wrong.

  4. #4


    Has anyone ever changed the incandescents on one of these switches? Mine a re burned out, and I took my switch apart, but couldn't figure out how to replace them without breaking the board. It must be glued down to the plastic housing. The little bulbs sit in a small socket that is soldered to the board, and I can't figure out how to remove them without having access to the back of the board. Theyprobably would just pull right out, but I only have one switch and don't want to break it permanantly. A new switch is about $80 and I don't want to pay that because 2 lights are out!! (I am a DIY kinda guy anyway...)
    2006 GMC Sierra 2500HD Duramax

  5. #5


    this is out of the sarge?
    1997 K1500 Silverado 4X4. Black Exterior, grey/black interior. 35X12.50X15 wheels and rubber, ProComp 6inch lift 6 shocks in the front 2 in the rear, 3 inch body lift, a few cosmetic mods. Nothing major. Custom leather interior, and stereo upgrade is the future mods.

  6. #6

    Default pinout

    Oddly enough, I stumbled on this thread looking for a pinout of the two connectors on this module. I was able to remove the two incandescent bulbs (they didn't appear to be in any sort of socket, it's a bipin bulb soldered directly to the board). It was a tremendous pain! Since the board is held in place not only by those two clips, but also by the pins for the connectors, I had to desolder the 12 pins of the two connectors to get the board out.

    Anyway, now that I've got the bulbs out, I'm at a loss for what to replace them with. The smallest bulb I have is a 1330, which is too large. My boss had the idea to replace them with a couple of 12V stable LEDs, which is what I will attempt to do this afternoon.

    So, if anyone has a pinout of the 8-pin connector for this module, I can determine which direction to plug the LED in.

  7. #7


    I wish I had that pinout diagram for you, but I don't. I think it is time for me to buy a FSM.

    Please keep us updated on your progress. I would like to see what you ended you using and what the end result was. A new switch is about $80, and that seems like a lot of cash to drop because of 2 dead lights!

    So you de-soldered the pins from the board also? Did they stay in the housing? I am wondering if the board is glued down then too, and also whether or not you think you will be able to get it back together again!


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