Trouble with aftermarket amp

[chevygurl]

I've got an 05 Trailblazer LT (non EXT) with the Bose system.

I bought a PAC OEM-1 GM24 factory system interface so I could install an amplifer powering to 12" subs to my stock headunit so I could keep my steering wheel controls and 6 disc in dash changer.

After calling PAC to figure out how to wire the remote wire in, I finally got it working tonight. Took it on a little drive to hear how the new system sounds, and about 10 miles down the road, the amp cut out and the protect light came on, and I can't get it to work now! Anyone have any suggestions?

Here's some details on my install to help out:

I have a 2400w Lanzar Vibe 276 amplifier and 2 12" DHD NTX-6812 (1000 w each) subs.

I ran the RCAs down the passenger side of the car, and the remote wire down the driver's side.

My ground it grounded in the back under the carpet to the truck's body (and has been checked throughout the install with a test light AND voltometer)

And my power is coming off the junction under the driver's side backseat.

I'm using 4 ga power and ground wires and 12 ga speaker and remote wires.

[Springthing]

Is the power to the amp coming from the battery? It sounds like you tapped into the truck's electric fuse block?

[chevygurl]

Yeah, it looks like maybe the radio's "brain" or something similiar down there. I got the idea from another Trailblazer owner. There's a 2 ga wire that runs directly off the junction from the battery to this fuse block with a post just like a battery. I disconnected that and put my power wire on the post along with the power to the fuse block.

Could it possibly be pushing too much power to the amp?

The troubleshooting section in my amp's owner's manual states to check for shorts in the speaker wires (done, none found) and then try disconnecting the speakers and resetting the amp, but I don't see where there's a reset on the amp, so I just unplugged all the leads for about a minute and plugged it all back in. It did the same thing, worked for a little bit, then shut down.

[Springthing]

If it worked for a bit and then quit on you it could be a number of things.

Make sure you haven't installed your amp to a metal surface. Some amps don't like to be grounded that way.
Make sure your amp is getting plenty of air circulation. If it's confined and/or in a small space it could be overheating (which is why it will play for a while and then quit on you)

What the manual for the amps is telling you is to try and isolate the problem.

You disconnect everything but the power (+), negative/ground (-), and the remote power.

Run your system for a while with it totally bare and then slowly add your other components. Plug in your RCA (from the radio)


Add your sub wires after...you don't have any other speakers to it, right?

If it goes into protection mode after you add the sub then check to make sure there are no kinks in the wires, nothing is touching metal anywhere.. the leads at the subs aren't touching any metal, etc etc.

I get out of my league at this point... but if everything seems ok so far but the problem occurs when you plug up the sub anyway then it could be the actual impedence to you sub that is set too low.

Will send you a pm to help in a few.

Hope this helps at least a little.

BTW - as far as I know the + power to the amp is better off coming straight from the battery with heavy gauge wire. The heavy gauge you have coming from the power block is pretty much all for nothing seeing as you then have limited power that's being delivered to your beefy wires. The power block controls all the power (well, most) for the vehicle and now you are adding one heck of an amp to it - you could be starving your amp.

[chevygurl]

The amp's installed on carpet, so I'm good there. It's close to the seats, but should be getting enough air, plus it's not even warm to the touch, not even on the bottom.

I did not try adding the components one at a time, I waited and plugged them all back in, then turned the truck on, so I will try that in the morning-and no, no other speakers.

I know the amp's big, and I have plans to but in a cap, maybe even a second battery. I was trying to avoid running a power wire the whole length of the truck, but if all these other things fail, I'll try that and see if it helps. By the way, does it matter that I'm getting over 14 volts to that wire? When I tested it and saw that I thought I'd be ok, am I wrong?

I've set up systems in my other cars, but the trailblazer is definitely the most computerized car I've ever had, and the electronics are a little intimidating to me. I really appreciate all your help, and thanks for the link!

[chevygurl]

I used the wizard you sent me Spring, and I have my speakers wired for 4 ohm load (they are dual voice coil) and my amp's minimum speaker impedance is 2 ohm, so I should be good there. I'll try your other suggestions in the morning. Thanks again!

[Springthing]

Yes, 14v is pretty normal.

[vncj96]

Sounds like grounding, and your power wire should be connected to the battery as well, with an inline fuse about a foot from the battery, it is very possible to much juice went to the amp, does your amp have its own fuses? IF, there was a power or ground problem you could have actually fried the wires to the amp, it is possible to ruin wires.

[chevygurl]

The amp does have fuses, they never blew - but I know that doesn't mean anything.

I just hooked up a different amp and it works with the same wires, so they're fine.

I'm probably just going to buy a different amp, I think it's just a cheap brand.

[vncj96]

That is always a possibility, the old line you get what you pay for