08 Silverado Line Out Converter Question

**sweetjones04** · 01-21-2009, 04:20 PM

If there is anyone here who has installed a new amp and subs keeping the factory GM head unit, can you please give me a walk through of how your setup is installed using the Line Out Converter.

Factory Radio
2, 12 Inch Subs
Custom Box for 08 Crew Cab
AutoTek Amp.

Thanks in Advance.

**vncj96** · 01-21-2009, 04:33 PM

Your amp needs a remote wire so it knows when or when not to draw power, run that line into the fuse bluck and jump it with the ignition wire. Your ground can just go to a metal point on the braces/legs of the rear seat. Dont know what side your battery is on but try and run it down that same side to save on the amount of line you use as it can pick up interference from other components. Your line out converter will follow like this-splice into your rear factory speaker wires, get a diagram (just google your trucks diagram) so you KNOW what is positive and negative for the rear speakers. Run these wires to the converter which you should mount near the amp, run the RCA wires to the amp from the converter and then your actual speaker wires to the subs. the more you spend on wiring and connecters the better sound quality you will have. Your power wire from the battery should have an inline fuse as well to protect everything. Stinger is a good wire and isnt horribly expensive, or you can use Monster as well but costs a little more. Hope this is what you were looking for.

PS make sure you disconnect the battery first, I know it seems obvious, but its the small oversights that can hurt you the most on a cars electrical system.

**sweetjones04** · 01-22-2009, 08:36 AM

Originally Posted by vncj96

Your amp needs a remote wire so it knows when or when not to draw power, run that line into the fuse bluck and jump it with the ignition wire. Your ground can just go to a metal point on the braces/legs of the rear seat. Dont know what side your battery is on but try and run it down that same side to save on the amount of line you use as it can pick up interference from other components. Your line out converter will follow like this-splice into your rear factory speaker wires, get a diagram (just google your trucks diagram) so you KNOW what is positive and negative for the rear speakers. Run these wires to the converter which you should mount near the amp, run the RCA wires to the amp from the converter and then your actual speaker wires to the subs. the more you spend on wiring and connecters the better sound quality you will have. Your power wire from the battery should have an inline fuse as well to protect everything. Stinger is a good wire and isnt horribly expensive, or you can use Monster as well but costs a little more. Hope this is what you were looking for.

PS make sure you disconnect the battery first, I know it seems obvious, but its the small oversights that can hurt you the most on a cars electrical system.

vncj96 question::

When I splice into my rear factory speakers, will I only be slicing into one rear speaker "left" or "right"?

In other words, Does it matter which rear speaker I splice into?

Thanks for you help.

**vncj96** · 01-22-2009, 08:47 AM

No you will need to tap into both speakers so that there is equal balance sent to the converter. There should be 4 small set screw for the wires to come into and the one set (L & R) for the RCA, unless you get a dual converter then there will be double of each. Just cut the insulation (not wire)to the rear speakers and wrap the wires for the converter around the exposed wires and use electical tape to seal it up or cut the whole thing and use some kind of crimp connector to connect everything back together (just think of it like the "Y" section in split dual exhaust)one in and then two out. my personal suggestion would be to cut it all and use the crimp connectors and before you put it togther slide a shrink wrap tube over it to ensure a proper seal. Good luck. Feel free to PM me with any other questions.

**MannyO** · 01-23-2009, 12:18 AM

http://www.modifiedlife.com/car-ster...ring-diagrams/ This website will assist you in the color coding of the wires wish i had this when i installed my system in my truck and not have to remove the door covers to see which wire colors i needed.click on the link and it will probably tell you it can't load just click on radio on top and you should be able to see all the vehicle models.

**sweetjones04** · 01-23-2009, 10:05 AM

Originally Posted by MannyO

http://www.modifiedlife.com/car-ster...ring-diagrams/ This website will assist you in the color coding of the wires wish i had this when i installed my system in my truck and not have to remove the door covers to see which wire colors i needed.click on the link and it will probably tell you it can't load just click on radio on top and you should be able to see all the vehicle models.

Manny, so it sounds like you added the lOC behind the radio??? Is this correct??

**vncj96** · 01-23-2009, 09:29 PM

it could be very tough, there isnt alot of room behind these radios, then you just have to buy longer RCA wires

**irbya** · 01-24-2009, 05:10 PM

think ahead,,,,if you plan on an aftermarket install H/U. I put the converters behind the factory unit. because i knew I was going to get an aftermarket later. that way i can cut out the converters and the RCA's were already there for the new unit. and no more removal of seats and carpet were involved.....also add some FATMAT if you install some bass it is the same as dynamat but i got enough to do two or three vehicles for $60 from ebay. also it is just as good as dynamat.

**MannyO** · 01-27-2009, 08:33 PM

actually no i mounted mine on the front passenger kick panel wires that go into the front door speakers then i ran my rca's back through the floor panels all the way behind my backseat to my amp. some people might disagree and say you need both left and right side signals i just used one side and my subs sound just fine. i have two memphis audio 10's. they are bridged on a memphis audio two channel amp with the stock head unit.