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  1. #51

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    Quote Originally Posted by drillRR View Post
    Nice write up, a quick fix for the knock is to just take that 15mm nut and bolt loose under the hood and disconnect the shaft from under the hood only. Next pump the shaft up and down about 15 times to redistribute the grease that is already in the shaft, then reconnect the shaft and install the nut and bolt. This is a temporary but quick repair. Rock on!!
    Worked at a Chevy dealership and this is what we were told to do for a long time about the problem helps for years and sometimes days its hit or miss
    2003 Chevrolet 1500 4x4 EC LS 5.3l
    DDM HIDs 6000k Lows and fogs 5000k Highs, 20% front tint 5% rear 15% brow
    Line-x, AVS bug shield, Detrimmed

  2. #52

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    Today I removed the intermediate steering shaft, drilled and tapped it per the instructions on page 2 of this thread, re-installed it, secured the zerk fitting into place, and pumped 80 shots of lithium grease into it. I immediately noticed knocks, clunks, and the irritating 'moaning' sound that was made when turning the wheel -- all vanished. And the best part? If it comes back, pump a few more shots of grease into it; no more disassembly for lubrication.

    I'm very appreciative of the front-page disassembly write-up by dwill3015 ... and the zerk fitting idea and write-up by skinner on the second page.

  3. #53

    Default

    my 03 was doing this when I bought it, 100$ at the dealer and it was fixed, my 05 hasnt done it yet, makes me wonder tho. defiantly remember this thread if it does tho.

    Alex


    2011 GMC Sierra SLE 5.3 Z71 4X4 Stealth Gray Metallic / 2004 Chevy Impala LS 3.8 Cappuccino

    Tow mirrors - Diablew Tuned - Flowmaster Regular 40 - Ready Lift 2.5' lift - BFG LT A/T K/Os - Carr Light Wing - TruckLite LED lights - Optima Red Top - 50% Front Window Tint - Line-X bedliner - Airaid MIT - Tekonsha P2 - ARS Billet Grill - Fia custom fit seat covers

  4. #54

    Default

    i do plan on doing this awesome mod very soon!, but my only question is... what exactly causes this "clunk" and how does adding grease fix it?
    2000 Chevrolet Silverado

    Powertrain:
    4.3L V6, 4L60E, 2WD, Single Cab
    Performance:
    Airaid CAI
    Poweraid TB Spacer
    Flowmaster 10-series exhaust (dumped)
    BLACKBEAR TUNED!!!
    Edge CS insight monitor
    4.10 gears
    Limited-slip differential
    LS-1 Dual Electric fans
    Corvette tranny servo swap

    Audio:
    Head Unit: Alpine
    Speakers: Alpine SPR-60C 6.5" component set, 4X6 Infinity Kappas
    Subs: 2-12" Kicker CVT's
    Amps: Alpine-M1000 (subs), Alpine MRX-F65 (Speakers)


    Tires/Wheels:
    305/70R16 NITTO Terra Grapplers
    16" PROCOMP 7089's
    Suspension:
    2" leveling kit
    3" Fabtech Spindle Lift Kit
    Front/Rear-Bilstein 5100 shocks

    Lighting:
    FRONT
    35W HID Low Beams
    RECON LED smoked roof cab lights
    REAR
    HELLA LED taillights and 3rd brakelight
    HELLA FF-75 Aux. Reverse Lamps
    RIGID dually D2, flush mount, wide beam
    Accessories:
    Hawk HPS Brake pads
    Russell braided steel brake lines
    Powerstop-red powdercoated brake calipers
    Powerslot Cryo brake rotors
    EGR in-channel window visors

  5. #55

    Default Cause

    The clunking feel is caused by the slack in the spline in the intermediate shaft. Because it is in the mid section of the column the feel is transfered to the steering wheel through the upper part of the column as a resination or vibration and you can hear it because of the echo through the empty cavity under the dash. This is why it is hard to decipher where the noise is originating from.
    I actually changed the right inner tierod in the beginning as there was a slight bit of play which i thought was causing the sound and feel to the steering wheel. I was not suprised when this did not make any change.

    Do not be alarmed at the play in the spline, it is very small and may feel like a very minor bit of play in the steering system when you move
    the wheel back and forth, not enough to cause concern of lost steering.
    When the grease between the splines is pushed out to the ends during normal use the clunk feel begins because the cushion of the grease is gone. By inplementing this very minor and inexpensive mod. we are simply replenishing the grease back into the small space between the splines re-creating the cushion or dampening to stop the complaint. Best part is, we can replenish it any time any where it becomes annoying
    without causing any harm to the steering system.
    If GM had designed this shaft with less play, it likely would have worn out from insufficient lube, inturn ending up with the same issue we already have.
    I personally feel they should have stuck with the solid shaft with a rubber dampener at the steering box used for many previous years.It would over time become soft and cause the steering system to feel as if there were worn parts and make the driver over-steer to cpmpensate for the stretch in the rubber. If owners were to have replaced this dampener in more vehicals, there would have been less complaints and less reason to change to the system we are dealing with today.
    I believe they were attempting to make the steering feel more solid and they succeeded except caused a new issue, Clunkity clunk clunk.
    lol.
    Skinner
    2004 Chevy Silverado Z71, 5.3L auto
    Beginning work in progress

  6. #56

    Default

    well damn skinner!
    i do not think that i could have asked for a better explanation than that.
    thank you for that extremely detailed response, i am grateful :D
    2000 Chevrolet Silverado

    Powertrain:
    4.3L V6, 4L60E, 2WD, Single Cab
    Performance:
    Airaid CAI
    Poweraid TB Spacer
    Flowmaster 10-series exhaust (dumped)
    BLACKBEAR TUNED!!!
    Edge CS insight monitor
    4.10 gears
    Limited-slip differential
    LS-1 Dual Electric fans
    Corvette tranny servo swap

    Audio:
    Head Unit: Alpine
    Speakers: Alpine SPR-60C 6.5" component set, 4X6 Infinity Kappas
    Subs: 2-12" Kicker CVT's
    Amps: Alpine-M1000 (subs), Alpine MRX-F65 (Speakers)


    Tires/Wheels:
    305/70R16 NITTO Terra Grapplers
    16" PROCOMP 7089's
    Suspension:
    2" leveling kit
    3" Fabtech Spindle Lift Kit
    Front/Rear-Bilstein 5100 shocks

    Lighting:
    FRONT
    35W HID Low Beams
    RECON LED smoked roof cab lights
    REAR
    HELLA LED taillights and 3rd brakelight
    HELLA FF-75 Aux. Reverse Lamps
    RIGID dually D2, flush mount, wide beam
    Accessories:
    Hawk HPS Brake pads
    Russell braided steel brake lines
    Powerstop-red powdercoated brake calipers
    Powerslot Cryo brake rotors
    EGR in-channel window visors

  7. #57

    Default

    Thanks for the write up!! I will be doing this and a upper ball joint this weekend.
    2002 Chevy Tahoe 4x4
    2003 Chevy Silverado 4x4

  8. #58

    Default

    I'm going to order off of rock auto next paycheck, 46 dollars for the shaft! that's a steal right there everyone!


    2003 GMC Sierra 1500 SLE 5.3
    Factory Tint
    Recon Taillights
    2.5 ReadyLift Leveling Kit
    Low Profile Toolbox
    Westin Nerf Steps

  9. #59
    Sr. Apprentice redneck70's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Regina, Saskatchewan
    Posts
    57

    Default

    I'm starting to get the shaft knock and I'm wondering if has anyone had any long term experience with the Dorman shaft? is it designed any better then the OEM one.
    2007 Silver Birch Metallic Sierra Classic SLE Crew Cab Z71
    Line-X bed liner
    Putco box rails
    Truxedo Lo Pro QT box cover
    Cloud-Rider grill inserts

  10. #60

    Default

    Skinner , I bought a 2007 GMC 1500 with 90,000 miles on it . And as I became more familiar with the truck I started to notice that click or light clunk in the steering shaft . I went through your steps to install a zerk , without removing the shaft . And then I began to think of a way to stop the grease from traveling down the tube in order to eventually get it to fill in the opposite direction . And I found something in my basement that worked pretty good . It is Poly foam backer rod . Or you can call it foam insulation rope . It is used mostly in place of window caulk . It is used to tuck in to cracks around vent openings or window sills . I used 1/2 inch diameter rope but Im sure a slightly larger diameter would work too . After the zerk was installed per your direction , I left the shaft bolt facing up and where you would normally stuff a rag up the bottom was able to double the 1/2 inch foam up and feed it up inside the tube . It will slide up about 6 inches or so then stop . Then cut that off at the end and start stuffing a single strand of foam rope right after that . You can work a few more inches of that up in there with your little finger and pack it in tight . Then cut it off and just leave it in there for the next time . The foam insulation rope is sold on Hardwares and Menards and elsewhere for cheap . Thank you for your great advice and pictures .
    Last edited by leftywoody; 03-03-2012 at 09:12 AM.

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