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07-27-2011, 02:16 PM #51
2003 Chevrolet 1500 4x4 EC LS 5.3l
- Join Date
- Jul 2011
- Ruckersville, VA
DDM HIDs 6000k Lows and fogs 5000k Highs, 20% front tint 5% rear 15% brow
Line-x, AVS bug shield, Detrimmed
11-19-2011, 06:52 PM #52
Today I removed the intermediate steering shaft, drilled and tapped it per the instructions on page 2 of this thread, re-installed it, secured the zerk fitting into place, and pumped 80 shots of lithium grease into it. I immediately noticed knocks, clunks, and the irritating 'moaning' sound that was made when turning the wheel -- all vanished. And the best part? If it comes back, pump a few more shots of grease into it; no more disassembly for lubrication.
I'm very appreciative of the front-page disassembly write-up by dwill3015 ... and the zerk fitting idea and write-up by skinner on the second page.
11-20-2011, 08:29 AM #53
my 03 was doing this when I bought it, 100$ at the dealer and it was fixed, my 05 hasnt done it yet, makes me wonder tho. defiantly remember this thread if it does tho.
2011 GMC Sierra SLE 5.3 Z71 4X4 Stealth Gray Metallic / 2004 Chevy Impala LS 3.8 Cappuccino
Tow mirrors - Diablew Tuned - Flowmaster Regular 40 - Ready Lift 2.5' lift - BFG LT A/T K/Os - Carr Light Wing - TruckLite LED lights - Optima Red Top - 50% Front Window Tint - Line-X bedliner - Airaid MIT - Tekonsha P2 - ARS Billet Grill - Fia custom fit seat covers
12-30-2011, 11:17 PM #54
i do plan on doing this awesome mod very soon!, but my only question is... what exactly causes this "clunk" and how does adding grease fix it?2000 Chevrolet Silverado
4.3L V6, 4L60E, 2WD, Single Cab
Poweraid TB Spacer
Flowmaster 10-series exhaust (dumped)
Edge CS insight monitor
LS-1 Dual Electric fans
Corvette tranny servo swap
Head Unit: Alpine
Speakers: Alpine SPR-60C 6.5" component set, 4X6 Infinity Kappas
Subs: 2-12" Kicker CVT's
Amps: Alpine-M1000 (subs), Alpine MRX-F65 (Speakers)
305/70R16 NITTO Terra Grapplers
16" PROCOMP 7089's
2" leveling kit
3" Fabtech Spindle Lift Kit
Front/Rear-Bilstein 5100 shocks
35W HID Low Beams
RECON LED smoked roof cab lights
HELLA LED taillights and 3rd brakelight
HELLA FF-75 Aux. Reverse Lamps
RIGID dually D2, flush mount, wide beam
Hawk HPS Brake pads
Russell braided steel brake lines
Powerstop-red powdercoated brake calipers
Powerslot Cryo brake rotors
EGR in-channel window visors
01-02-2012, 11:05 AM #55
- Join Date
- May 2009
The clunking feel is caused by the slack in the spline in the intermediate shaft. Because it is in the mid section of the column the feel is transfered to the steering wheel through the upper part of the column as a resination or vibration and you can hear it because of the echo through the empty cavity under the dash. This is why it is hard to decipher where the noise is originating from.
I actually changed the right inner tierod in the beginning as there was a slight bit of play which i thought was causing the sound and feel to the steering wheel. I was not suprised when this did not make any change.
Do not be alarmed at the play in the spline, it is very small and may feel like a very minor bit of play in the steering system when you move
the wheel back and forth, not enough to cause concern of lost steering.
When the grease between the splines is pushed out to the ends during normal use the clunk feel begins because the cushion of the grease is gone. By inplementing this very minor and inexpensive mod. we are simply replenishing the grease back into the small space between the splines re-creating the cushion or dampening to stop the complaint. Best part is, we can replenish it any time any where it becomes annoying
without causing any harm to the steering system.
If GM had designed this shaft with less play, it likely would have worn out from insufficient lube, inturn ending up with the same issue we already have.
I personally feel they should have stuck with the solid shaft with a rubber dampener at the steering box used for many previous years.It would over time become soft and cause the steering system to feel as if there were worn parts and make the driver over-steer to cpmpensate for the stretch in the rubber. If owners were to have replaced this dampener in more vehicals, there would have been less complaints and less reason to change to the system we are dealing with today.
I believe they were attempting to make the steering feel more solid and they succeeded except caused a new issue, Clunkity clunk clunk.
Skinner2004 Chevy Silverado Z71, 5.3L auto
Beginning work in progress
01-02-2012, 05:00 PM #56
well damn skinner!
i do not think that i could have asked for a better explanation than that.
thank you for that extremely detailed response, i am grateful :D
01-25-2012, 12:58 PM #57
Thanks for the write up!! I will be doing this and a upper ball joint this weekend.2002 Chevy Tahoe 4x4
2003 Chevy Silverado 4x4
01-25-2012, 01:43 PM #58
I'm going to order off of rock auto next paycheck, 46 dollars for the shaft! that's a steal right there everyone!
2003 GMC Sierra 1500 SLE 5.3
2.5 ReadyLift Leveling Kit
Low Profile Toolbox
Westin Nerf Steps
02-05-2012, 04:48 AM #59
I'm starting to get the shaft knock and I'm wondering if has anyone had any long term experience with the Dorman shaft? is it designed any better then the OEM one.2007 Silver Birch Metallic Sierra Classic SLE Crew Cab Z71
Line-X bed liner
Putco box rails
Truxedo Lo Pro QT box cover
Cloud-Rider grill inserts
03-03-2012, 09:10 AM #60
- Join Date
- Dec 2011
Skinner , I bought a 2007 GMC 1500 with 90,000 miles on it . And as I became more familiar with the truck I started to notice that click or light clunk in the steering shaft . I went through your steps to install a zerk , without removing the shaft . And then I began to think of a way to stop the grease from traveling down the tube in order to eventually get it to fill in the opposite direction . And I found something in my basement that worked pretty good . It is Poly foam backer rod . Or you can call it foam insulation rope . It is used mostly in place of window caulk . It is used to tuck in to cracks around vent openings or window sills . I used 1/2 inch diameter rope but Im sure a slightly larger diameter would work too . After the zerk was installed per your direction , I left the shaft bolt facing up and where you would normally stuff a rag up the bottom was able to double the 1/2 inch foam up and feed it up inside the tube . It will slide up about 6 inches or so then stop . Then cut that off at the end and start stuffing a single strand of foam rope right after that . You can work a few more inches of that up in there with your little finger and pack it in tight . Then cut it off and just leave it in there for the next time . The foam insulation rope is sold on Hardwares and Menards and elsewhere for cheap . Thank you for your great advice and pictures .
Last edited by leftywoody; 03-03-2012 at 09:12 AM.
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