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  1. #61


    Update I took my truck out today and drove it around our crappy back steets and downtown . It was so much smoother and more quiet and graceful in it's handling that I thought I was driving something totally differant . I didn't expect it to improve so much but it is almost unbelievable . Total cost for this repair was about 15.00 bucks .

  2. #62


    The rope idea sounds good, i am familiar with this product and i think its going to work fine. I'm not however sure it will stay in place as well as the expanding foam sujested earlier in the forum.
    My fear is that the grease pressure may push it out and it will make a big mess around the steering box area. Could also in extreeme case ooze grease onto tire surfaces.
    Time will tell, let us know how it works out.

    To update, my 04 has been plowing snow all this winter in northern ontario and the last needed addition of grease was early fall/ late summer. Still rockin fine as of today. I believe it lasts longer in winter as the grease stays thicker in the cold weather and takes longer to squeeze out.
    2004 Chevy Silverado Z71, 5.3L auto
    Beginning work in progress

  3. #63


    I put a couple hundred miles on this truck and did a check on the foam rope . It hasn't budged . I packed it pretty tight and I think it has expanded enough to hold in place . The grease is also staying up in the tube and has not migrated out onto any surrounding area . The steering noise has stopped and I will update when I have to add grease again . Thanks again Skinner you did good .

  4. #64


    Great write-up! We need more of this quality of writeup on here.

    10 Chevy Traverse LT AWD
    02 Chevy Trailblazer LS (110K+ miles - loaded except for 4WD - WRECKED!)
    99 Chevy Cavalier LS (105K+ miles - commuter car)
    78 Chevy Suburban Silverado (454, 3/4 ton)
    62 GMC 3/4 ton Pickup (350 police interceptor)

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  5. #65


    Update . Just added grease at 3000 miles since installing the grease zerk . The foam rope is still in place and has hardend a bit . I can still reach my little finger up into the shaft and feel it tucked in there . The clicking was barely noticable but since it was so easy to regrease I went ahead and did it anyway .

  6. #66


    Can someone who has preformed the procedure on page 2, #20 please answer a question for me;
    I need to get this done on my 2001 silverado, the knocking has progressively gotten worse and I figure it is worth a try before replacing the part completely. And it's a lot cheaper too! Do you have to remove the intermediate steering shaft to punch, drill, and tap the hole? or can you do it while it's still installed? I would like to keep it in to try to avoid doing any other unwanted damage. The procedure doesn't clearly state whether or not you remove it or not, and by scowering through threads I can't find the answer from others who have claimed to have done it;
    some mention removal and some don't..
    please shed some light on this for me.

  7. #67


    You do not have to remove anything . There is plenty of room to do this while it is installed . At least on my truck there was . Please use a new or newer drill bit that has a pilot tip on it . That additional tip on the end of the bit will do the work of a punch . I am not sure if you can even strike a punch with a hammer with any success with all the other mechanizms that are in the way . However I could be mistaken about hammer and punch clearance . The metal you are drilling into is reasonably soft and thin . Use a little oil on the bit as a lube when you are drilling .

  8. #68


    Thanks Lefty, I guess I will not know about clearance till I actually try it or take a good look under my hood at the steering shaft. I'll take a look this weekend and post with my results aswell.

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