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  1. #1

    Angry Need some Guys hoping you can help

    Whats up everyone hope all is well. I have a 97 Silverado 350 2wd its very clean and well maintained i was coming home from my crapy job and the engine fliped out on me! i figured it was a spark issue so this morning i took off the cap and cleaned the conntections the best i could. Now 2 months ago i replaced the Cap, Rotor, Plugs, and wire and all AC delco parts and after two months very corroided. after cleaning it ran well for about ten seconds then back to struggleing to run. So i took it to my buds dad who is a Chevy mecanihic and said it coud either be a MAF sensor or the injectors. either way it needs to be fixed i am hopeing someone can help me. Also i forgot to mention once i unplugged the MAF for the first time it ran GREAT!! but on the way home it went back to running like **** so i plugged it back in and it went to running fine the whole wat home about a ten min drive if anyone can give the CORRECT information please email me at thanks guys!!!

  2. #2

    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    East of Branson, Missouri
    Blog Entries


    Perhaps I missed it, but I don't see a question there. What would you like help on / what are you wondering about?

    "The Sarge"
    1999 Chevy Suburban LT- K2500
    7.4 454 Vortec, 4WD
    305/70/16 on Eagle Alloy

  3. #3


    Do you have a friend with a Chevy like yours that would let you borrow his MAF for troubleshooting?
    With the symptoms your describing I'd say the MAF has gone bad. When you unhooked it the truck went into a lymp mode and reset itself, then when it couldnt correct the problem went back to running crappy.
    Disconnecting the MAF wont normally repair a faulty of dirty injector.

  4. #4
    Master Mechanic
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Brandon, FLA
    Blog Entries


    tbplus10, right on with the borrowing of the part. It did perform TEST MODE(open) but you your correct in the fact that the ECM could not change calibration so it will return to last setting. This a MAF just by you stating it ran good disconnected. You do not get CEL of any kind? This is odd since you should have
    for it being disconnect. Did you diconnect with the negative battery cable removed? When performing diagnostics on any of the sensors, or even replacing, the Neg cable should be removed and left off until repair/test has been completed. If not this can cause problems for the for this highly sensitive components........Borrow a MAF, run a can of Seafoam if possible and put some in the tank. Check to make sure the EGR isn't dirty at the pindle or sticking.....


  5. #5


    I think Jeff and Tim are right on the money (no pun intended Jeff). How much corrosion are you talking about on the somewhat new parts?

    2005 Silverado - 4.3L, 5spd Manual, K&N Drop in Filter, Modded Air box
    Kenwood KDC-MP732 Head Unit, Pioneer 760W Amp, 2x 10" MTX Thunder 6000 subs, Uniden PC68XL CB/PA

    2004 Cavalier - 2.2L Auto
    Bone Stock

    1977 Toyota Celica GT - 20R (2.2L), 5spd, 146,000 Miles all Original (even the clutch)

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