So I've been thinking about getting some headers. I see on Summit's website they have Pacesetters for pretty cheap. The shorties are $240 and the long tubes are $290. What are the pros and cons of each of these? searching around, it sounds like shorties bolt directly up to the stock flange and so they install really easy but the long tubes have a lot better power. So it's sounding like the long tubes are the best ones, so I basically have two questions: 1 - how much more will long tubes perform than short tubes and 2 - how much more difficult are the long tubes to install? I don't really understand how the long tubes connect to the rest of the system, in the description it says "collector attachment: slip fit" do they need to be welded or what?
Short tubes
Long tubes
99 Silverado Z71 4.8
2" Suspension lift (Add-a-leafs and leveling keys)
Long tube headers with 3" offroad Y-Pipe
Volant Cold Air Intake with Ram Air Intake Tube
Jet Mass Air Flow Sensor
Diablosport Predator Tuner
Previous Truck:
97 Suburban K1500
3" Body lift
2" Suspension Lift (Add-a-leafs and cranked up torsion bars)
35" Yokohama M/T's
K&N Intake
Airraid Throttle Body Spacer
Hypertech Programmer
Dual Flowmasters
shorties are direct replacements for your stock manifolds.
long tubes will require some modication or out right new pipes from the headers to the muffler.
it shouldnt be too expensive to have an exhaust shop bend you up some pipes if you get the long tubes but i would call and ask
2004 Silverado 1500 2wd Ext. Cab
Actually for a street driven truck a mid length 4-2-1 or Tri-Y would be much better.
01 2500 Burb 8.1
71 Cheyenne 502 675hp
Certified Gatorhyde Dealer/installer


This is from this month's issue of Truckin' magazine, I tried to download it but it kept messing up!
SHORTY HEADERS VS. LONG-TUBE HEADERS
PROS:
Easy Installation VS. Greater low-end torque
Most are CARB-approved VS. Often are not CARB-legal
Bolt up to existing stock exhaust pipes VS. Deep throaty sound
Provide good mid and upper rpm power VS. Broad low-rpm torque curve
CONS:
Lighter weight VS. Heavier than shorties
Not as much power made VS. Control torque/power curve
Some times less quality means flange leaks VS. More expensive
Compact design can be hard to install VS. Often hang below framerails
"We looked at both types of header's and for all-out performance with NO carb issues, it's hard to beat long-tube headers, but if you're on a budget and you want smog-legal performance, shorty headers are the way to go!......................Hope this helps, AMY![]()
I guess my other question would be about the coating. I do live in minnesota so I deal with the salt, so should I splurge and get the expensive coated ones? My truck is a 99 with 120K on it, so it's not like I'm going to have it for 10 years or anything. I found the headers with an offroad y-pipe that will connect the headers to my stock mounting flange behind the cats for $400 without the coating so I'd like to save some money by going with that.
99 Silverado Z71 4.8
2" Suspension lift (Add-a-leafs and leveling keys)
Long tube headers with 3" offroad Y-Pipe
Volant Cold Air Intake with Ram Air Intake Tube
Jet Mass Air Flow Sensor
Diablosport Predator Tuner
Previous Truck:
97 Suburban K1500
3" Body lift
2" Suspension Lift (Add-a-leafs and cranked up torsion bars)
35" Yokohama M/T's
K&N Intake
Airraid Throttle Body Spacer
Hypertech Programmer
Dual Flowmasters


My dad had a set of ceramic coated long-tube headers on his 57' chevy and loved them!
On my old 2500HD Silverado, I had a set of Stainless steel HOOKER headers, that were shorties and I really liked them as far as sound and fitment went.
If I had to buy another set of headers, I would buy the shortie ceramic version they seem to hold up better over the long haul.
With your truck having that many miles on it, I don't think I would shell out the extra money for the coating either. $400 sounds pretty reasonable in my opinion, then again I tend to splurge on stuff like that![]()
Most headers are coated anymore. As for your other question I prefer shorties due to the ease of installation.
Chris
2005 Silverado - 4.3L, 5spd Manual, K&N Drop in Filter, Modded Air box
Kenwood KDC-MP732 Head Unit, Pioneer 760W Amp, 2x 10" MTX Thunder 6000 subs, Uniden PC68XL CB/PA
2004 Cavalier - 2.2L Auto
Bone Stock
1977 Toyota Celica GT - 20R (2.2L), 5spd, 146,000 Miles all Original (even the clutch)
Definitely get them ceramic coated it helps with underhood engine temps and keeps the headers looking nice.
01 2500 Burb 8.1
71 Cheyenne 502 675hp
Certified Gatorhyde Dealer/installer

I've always been a fan of block huggers or shorties. Unless you are doing a full exhaust replacement, go the easy route. If your motor doesn't need equal length tubes for performance reasons, shorties are perfect.
Trevor - Huntington Beach, CA
2007 GMC 2500 4X4
Sorry to hijack this thread, but I gotta ask. How much (if any) performance gain (or mpg gain) is there with shorties over stockers? Is it worth the extra money?
Bookmarks