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  1. #1

    Default Wheel spacers on 95 suburban, good or bad idea?

    I want to put 2" wheel spacers on my rear. I ordered a pair of wheel adapters 2" thick 139.7 -139.7. My question is, is I hear this will put a lot of stress on my bearings. I Rarely tow with this vehicle or drive it hard just want the rear tires to match up with the flar kit that it came with . Any input or advice will be appreciated. Has any one had problems after putting Wheel spacers on? I have stock rims with bfg 285 75 16 and a 3" body lift if that makes a difference

  2. #2

    Default

    Is the truck a 1500 or 2500?
    The reason I ask is these two trucks use different rear axles.
    2500's use a full floating design rear axle which has the bearings riding farther out on the axle and would'nt be bothered by spacers putting the unsprung weight farther out. Infact most dually applications use full floating rear axles and normally run with a lot of weight riding farther out on the axle.
    If it's a 1500 you have a non floating axle and would see reduced bearing life and could possibly have countinuous issues with axle seals.
    And yes I had a truck that ate wheel bearings and seals every 10k until I bought different wheels and got rid of the 1.5" spacers.

  3. #3

    Default

    Yes its a 1500, So basically unless i want to continuously replace seals and bearing definitely do not go with the wheel spacers. Ive heard this before but did not ever talk to someone who had problems with spacers. Thanks for the info and the reply

  4. #4

    Default

    I may have ordered the wrong kind of spacer any ways. I do not know much about spacers but is an adapter differnt then a spacer. I do not have a dually, Just a regular 1500 4wd suburban, can you still used a wheel adapter 2" thick 5.5"-5.5" (139.7 -139.7) or are these strically used for duallys ???

  5. #5

    Default

    Spacers are sometimes refered to as wheel adapters (seems to be an interchangeable term).
    As long as the wheel adapters have the same lug pattern on the studs and the mounting holes they should work. From the specs it sounds like you have the right part.
    If you do use the spacers check the torque on the inside (adapter to brake drum) lug nuts regularly, these have a habit of loosening up and since their hidden by the wheel flange they dont get checked as often as they should. And no lock tite isnt good to use on them, the lug nuts become extremely hard to remove and usually result in snapping off a stud or two. Aluminium spacers/adapters seem to loosen more than steel ones.

  6. #6

    Default

    i would also recommend if you are doing them in the back, do them in the front as well to even things out. use some anti sieze on the bolts as well, that way it will be easy to take them off if you need to. and as he said check them every so often and tighten them down.
    PETE
    95 GMC Sierra 2500
    3" Body Lift, 33" Goodyear MTR's
    5.7L 350 TBI Edelbrock SDT Exhaust, Flowtech Headers, K&N Intake
    Sold :(
    1999 Jeep Cherokee, 3" Rustys lift, 33" BFG MT's, locked, armored: Rolled :(
    2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited. K&N Intake, Custom Kolak Exhaust


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  7. #7

    Default

    I know a bunch of people who run them on jeeps without issues. But yes the aluminum ones tend to loosen up so be careful and check your lug nuts!
    Dan
    1999 GMC Sierra 2500 350 vortec
    1967 Jeep M725 ambulance 230 tornado
    1990 Cherokee Limited- 3 inch lift on 33's
    ...and every one of em has issues

    If you have any questions or problems don't hesitate to send me or any other GMTC moderators a PM

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