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  1. #1

    Default Question about negative camber

    So I just had both upper ball joints replaced after the front driver side one snapped in two and almost landed me into a car in the next lane and a month later I'm having some problems with negative camber on the same side. Now I'm just assuming it's negative camber (with the inner tread taking a beating) and there is some squealing coming from that same wheel which could also be associated with it. My question was; how did it happen and how do i fix it. I desperately need to replace my tires (which are now almost slicks) and I have to do it before I go to the tire shop lest I spend a couple hundred more to have them fix it for me. I'll post some pictures as soon as my camera is done charging so someone with a little more expertise can tell me if it is camber or if there's something else goin' on down there.

  2. #2

    Default

    Is there a chance you could've bent some suspension pieces when the upper ball joint went?
    Camber can be shimmed out to create a positive or nuetral condition. I dont know what the specs are for your particular vehicle (very few vehicles run neutral camber, they all have a little positive or negative camber).
    The best be would be to get it on the alignment rack and figure out where the issue is.

  3. #3

    Default

    Well, truck is in the shop getting the new cat installed (old one broke apart and clogged up), I told the guy about the problem and he said he would look into it. Hopefully it's an easy fix.

  4. #4

    Default

    Just got word from the shop that my hub and bearing assembly is trashed and my wheel is about fall off. This sucks majorly as it's not the easy fix I was looking for. However, this is a fix I can do myself, only problem is that my truck is in the shop and I can't drive it. Not to mention that their welding machine is down and they can't even install the new cat. They told me they have to take it over to their neighbors shop and do it (which can't be done until the hub is replaced). Son of a *****. Arrrrggg... this truck is making me so frustrated. I bought it not knowing it was a lemon, over payed and now I'm really paying for it by trying to turn it into lemonade.

    Any way, now that I'm on bearing and hub assemblies, anybody know of a good brand? Don't want to put some cheapo crap on my baby. If I'm going to fix it, I might as well fix it right.

    Update: Just found out they wanted me to pay $299 for ONE hub and bearing assembly and $170 to install. Now I just did a little bit of research and found that hub and bearing assemblies only run about $50 depending on where you go. Now I can understand the fee charged for labor (which should only take about an hour and a half to two hours to replace both hubs), but that mark up on the hub is ****in insane. Is that a normal price, or am I just looking at a cheapo? The most expensive one I found was a Timken hub and bearing for $130. Not sure about the difference in quality or if there even is one but I think my mechanic is ripping me off, big time.
    Last edited by ProjectJimmy; 02-20-2009 at 04:16 PM.

  5. #5

    Default

    Timken is one of the better brands, Cirsco is also good.

    Most shops get a 10-25% markup on parts, their markup is usually figured at retail, and to confuse you even more they buy the parts at a Jobbers rate which is at or below normal wholesale.
    An example to put it laymens terms:
    Jobbers Rate $35.00
    Retail price $50.00
    Marked up price $65.00

    You may feel ripped off but they do all the running around for you and take the risk if they buy the wrong part and it cant be returned for some reason.
    And I'm sure they also have something posted in the shop listing a markup for labor if you carry in your own parts.
    In their defence all I can say is they gotta make a living somehow.

  6. #6

    Default

    I decided to go with BCA/National which is found is fairly decent, but I also found out that they wanted to install an AC Delco hub, which is why they were charging so much. The AC Delco website was selling them for $608 a piece which at 300 would be a deal, but I still thought that was a little more then it should be. Don't know why the ACD's are so much, but I feel I made a good decision.

    I understand about mark-up and convience but I just couldn't figure out why it would cost so much and I see now so... They brought down the labor charge because I told em I would be supplying the part and that I could do the work myself, but since it's already in the shop I might as well have them do it. It's just that I'm on a budget and I'm trying to stretch my funds as far as possible so finding the best deal is always the #1 priority while trying not to sacrifice quality.

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