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  1. #1

    Default Two Piece Driveline?

    Hey I've got a 2000 silverado ext cab z71. I recently had a driveline clunking problem when accelerating from a dead stop. I took it into the tranny shop to have them regrease the slip-yoke under warranty, which did not fix the problem. The guy took my driveline off and shook it back and forth for me, apparently this is the clunking noise I'm hearing. He priced out a new driveline at 660 plus install and tax would be 750. Anyone have any thoughts on this? I don't think I'm tearing anything up by driving it how it is. Just the inside piece of my driveline is bouncing around.. If anyone does think I should replace it the question is then aftermarket or oem? And where to buy it? Thanks guys.
    2000 Silverado ext cab1500 Z71
    Have:
    -K&N
    -SPR-17S Fronts with 100RMS watts to each
    -Billet Grill
    -Bedliner
    -Catback Flowmaster Exhaust
    -CDA-9884 Head unit w/ iPod hookup
    -2 KFC-W3011 subs (seperate boxes 1 cu ft air space each) powered by a KAC-9104D 900 watt RMS monoblock amp
    -SPR-57C rear speakers
    -Door dings
    -Leveling kit (2.5" torsion keys)

    Want:
    -6" Suspension Lift
    -35" tires (maybe 38s)
    -HID/projector headlights
    -Headers
    -Programmer/Tuner

  2. #2
    Legend cascott325's Avatar
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    Default

    i have a 2000 silverado, but i dont have a 2 piece drive shaft if thats what you are talking about. i still have a clunk sound, so i dont think thats it. could be wrong though
    2000 silverado with a 5.3l v8, shorty headers, upgraded plugs, 10 mil wires, magnaflow high flow cats, flowmaster 80 series muffler(2 in 2 out) w/ 18 inch stainless silverline tips. i have a k&n CIA. its a 4x4 z71 offroad package. Ls model.
    extended cab 160k miles, truxedo low profile bed cover, diablo sport predator tuner.
    reman tranny @ 130k miles
    Chris

  3. #3
    Jr. Apprentice dangerous dave's Avatar
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    i guess i don't understand do you have 2 drive shafts if so then there is a carrier bearing, that could be the issue..do you have any vidrations on throttle if so when you cast does it stop, or maybe the opposite vibration at coast smooth under power. climb under the truck and garb the shaft any lateral movement, if so check the carrier if you have one the rubber inside should look intact, also check to see if it is centered in the carrier. if you have a slip yoke try twisting is seperate from the shaft the splines could be worn ( not common) if problems get a reputable driveline company in your area to make a new one . i had one built for a bronco for under $140 and that included new ujoints and they even pressed them in. might also just be a bad u joint. i don't know your mechanical expertise but driveline problems are fairly simple to fix..also make sure that if you have a shaft made u balance it with the ujoints in and if possible give them the yokes from the trans and rear to balance also..let me know if this this helps

  4. #4
    Jr. Mechanic thatjerk01's Avatar
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    try jacking up the back of the truck. and move a tire back and fourth and see if u hear it. i had a clunking noise in my truck and it was the rear differential.
    Casey Clark
    Currently Arizona
    Soon Idaho
    1996 CHEVY K1500 Z71
    Front end collision
    145000 miles about


  5. #5

    Default

    I took the driveline completely out of the truck and shook it back and forth and something internal is clunking around. There is an outer shell which I can feel is hollow, the u joints and spline are attached to this outer shell. According the the guy at the transmission shop, there is another tube inside the driveshaft for god knows what reason; structural integrity maybe? The splines on the slip-yoke mate up perfectly, there is no play whatsoever. No lateral play either when the driveline is installed.


    I guess what I'm asking is does anyone know for sure if the 2000 z71's came with a two piece driveshaft and/or where do I go to get an aftermarket one for less than 650 dollars? I know in drag vehicles people will install aluminum drive shafts because of weight and strength advantages; I would like to do something like this but google hasn't returned anything and local shops that I've called up are clueless. Thanks!

  6. #6
    Jr. Apprentice dangerous dave's Avatar
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    you want to fork out for an aluminum driveshaft call denny's driveshaft google that if they ain't got in stock they'll make it. they do steel too

  7. #7

    Default

    The inner tube is to strengthen the unit.
    If you dont get it fixed it'll eventually cause additional damage to the trans or rear end as it's rotating around off-balance with the center tube flopping around loosely inside.
    I know theres got to be a couple good driveshaft shops in Arizona with all the guys that build custom rock crawlers and desert runners out there. Find out who the local off-road guys are using and have a new custom shaft built. Using your yokes they should be able to weld one together for a couple hundred dollars, OEM is always overpriced.
    I know Dallas Driveline and Drive shaft King here in DFW run $250 and up for a new custom driveshaft depending on what type end joints you want on. (Double CV joints on both ends would make a nice driveshaft but if you dont wheel it a lot single CV joints would suffice).

  8. #8
    Jr. Mechanic ibmoses's Avatar
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    I would get one from a wrecking yard.

    Bert
    "Race Car Spelled Backwards is Racecar"

    03 Silverado 2WD extended cab 5.3 with towing package white/silver
    70GS455

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