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  1. #1

    Default Brake Caliber bolts

    Its time to change brake pads on my 01 Chevy Silverado Z71.

    Heres the problem, the brake caliber bolts wont break free when trying to loosen. Ive already stripped one bolt.

    So whats the trick of getting out the stripped bolt and getting the others out to change brake pads.
    Never had this problem of changing brake pads before.

  2. #2
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    dwill3015's Avatar
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    Default

    Welcome to the site! I would suggest penetrating oil, or heat to break it loose. We'll see what other members recommend as well.
    Darcy
    Washington State
    2006 Silverado 2500HD LT3 4X4 CC SB Duramax LBZ
    Tuff Country 6" lift, 35" Toyo M/T's on 20" Ultra Peacemaker wheels, Quadzilla Stealth2 programmer, Diamond Eye 5" cat-back exhaust, factory Special order color Yellow.

  3. #3
    Jr. Mechanic thatjerk01's Avatar
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    Default

    i would say use penetrating oil. spray it let it sit a min or two then spray it again. u gotta let the stuff work.
    Casey Clark
    Currently Arizona
    Soon Idaho
    1996 CHEVY K1500 Z71
    Front end collision
    145000 miles about


  4. #4

    Default

    When you write 'stripped' do you mean the bolt came out in one piece but the threads are damaged? Or did the bolt break off in the caliper hanger?

    I've never had either of these happen. The bolts are tight but should never be that tight. If they seem to be so, be sure you are turning them in the right direction since you are loosening them from the back of the bolt.

    For those that remain, try a penetrating oil like PB Blaster (there are others) shot between the disc and the caliper hanger to get to the hole. Give it 15 minutes to work, then try to release the bolt. If that doesn't give, then try heat from a propane torch.

    If the bolt broke off in the hanger, you will have to remove the disc (and bearings) to access the hole in the caliper hanger to drill and easy out the remainder. Penetrating oil and heat is used here as well.

    Not a bad idea to remove those bolts every year or so when you inspect brakes, clean them up with solvent to free the sleeves, then lubricate them well with high temp silicone grease and reinstall. This is also what allows the caliper to slide freely.

  5. #5
    Legend cascott325's Avatar
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    Default

    lefty loosey, righty tighty! lol
    2000 silverado with a 5.3l v8, shorty headers, upgraded plugs, 10 mil wires, magnaflow high flow cats, flowmaster 80 series muffler(2 in 2 out) w/ 18 inch stainless silverline tips. i have a k&n CIA. its a 4x4 z71 offroad package. Ls model.
    extended cab 160k miles, truxedo low profile bed cover, diablo sport predator tuner.
    reman tranny @ 130k miles
    Chris

  6. #6

    Default

    if you stripped the head of the bolt get a two vise grips, put one on the stripped bolt head and use the other to tighten the vise grip as tight as you can go then try to break it loose that way( use penetrating oil first)

    I use this method to get out stripped oil drain pugs

    2003 Z71 Silverado LS
    Access roll up cover
    Bed Rails
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    CB with PA system
    Waiting to be installed
    Two 8in RF HX2 punch( would have 12s but they got stolen)

  7. #7

    Default

    Always use heat to soften the "Loc Tite" !! Many get crazy over tightening them they should be torqued to 25lbs using lock tight. If in fact you have ruined the threads go to any decent auto supply and buy replacement bolts for stripped threads they will cut a new thread and save the day.

    Phil
    Happy 2 Wheeler!

  8. #8

    Default

    Thanks everyone for the replys.

    After working four hours straight I finally got all four caliber bolts out. Everyone of them I had to heat, beat, spray. I never had such a time with brakes in all my life.

    I had to buy4 new caliber bolts. Cause the only way I could get these suckers out was putting vise grips on the bolt by the rubber seal and beating with hammer while heating with flame. Who ever worked on these brakes before must of used supper glue instead of lock tight.

    At lease the new caliber bolts have bolt heads instead of those dam star crap heads.

    The front brakes are all done and after I rest up and calm down I will tackle the rears.

  9. #9
    Master Mechanic CarpenterGuy's Avatar
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    Default

    oh man i hate those "torx" bolts or what ever they're called. my grandpa had those on his '90 gmc safari when i did the brakes on it. it was stupid. he blew up the engine like 4 months after that too. he said he had the oil changed that day so i didn't check it. i probobly shoulda looked any way. i hate it when people take advantage of old folks
    2006 Silverado Z71 - 97,000 - totaled, RIP
    2006 Silverado Z71 - 122,000 (K&N 77 Series CAI, PowerAid TBS, Magnaflow dual rear exit, 33x12.50 Mickey Thompson MTZ, Tuff Country Torsion Keys, Tuff Country Add-A-Leafs)
    1966 C10 swb stepside (Gen I 350, Turbo 400 trans, dual cyl power brakes, front discs)
    I'll keep my money, guns, and freedom. You keep the Change.

  10. #10

    Default

    One Suggestion----I just recently did that to my 02 silverado those torx bolts were hell and once removed I took a bolt to a hardware store and bought 4 hardened bolts (black ones) with 21 mm heads the next time it will be easier....Just my 2 cents

    MAKE SURE YOU USE LOC TITE AGAIN i LOST ONE OF MY REAR BOLTS ABOUT 2 DAYS LATER AFTER CHANGING THEM AND THE FRONT WAS STARTING TO LOOSEN
    www.myspace.com/teamimageracing
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