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  1. #11
    Jr. Mechanic
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Sharon Hill, PA.
    Posts
    139

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    Quote Originally Posted by Badbrad469 View Post
    my amp i'm using pushes 1200 watts rms. so, since the subs can handle 600 per, i'm right at the threshold
    After you fully burn them in, they should sound great. Just watch them after prolonged use. I just installed my 12 inch JL Audio w7's into my box yesterday and I need to burn them in. They hit hard as hell and my amp was halfway pushing them. The bass on the head unit was all the way down too!
    1997 GMC Suburban
    22 inch Ice Metal Rims
    170k and still truckin'

  2. #12

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    i usually listen to the bass barely up for regular driving. the only time the gain knob goes up is when i have some teeny bopper pull up next to me and try to turn his stuff up. so, i do the same thing and embarrass them hehe

  3. #13

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    A couple of you mentioned "burning in" or some sort of "break in" period for the speakers. I have never heard of a break in period for speakers.. does it apply to smaller (6.5") door speakers as well or mainly subwoofers?

    EDIT - should i be keeping the volume below a certain level while they are breaking/burning in?
    2000 Silverado ext cab1500 Z71
    Have:
    -K&N
    -SPR-17S Fronts with 100RMS watts to each
    -Billet Grill
    -Bedliner
    -Catback Flowmaster Exhaust
    -CDA-9884 Head unit w/ iPod hookup
    -2 KFC-W3011 subs (seperate boxes 1 cu ft air space each) powered by a KAC-9104D 900 watt RMS monoblock amp
    -SPR-57C rear speakers
    -Door dings
    -Leveling kit (2.5" torsion keys)

    Want:
    -6" Suspension Lift
    -35" tires (maybe 38s)
    -HID/projector headlights
    -Headers
    -Programmer/Tuner

  4. #14

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    doesn't really apply to door speakers. most of the high end subs are stiff from the factory and after listening to them normal for a week or so lets them loosen up and they hit harder

  5. #15
    Jr. Mechanic Chevyman224's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Thibodaux, Louisiana
    Posts
    115

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    About how much did it cost for your setup. I was going for the same for my truck and my local car audio shop said it would be about $1600

  6. #16
    Legend cascott325's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Lawrenceburg, Kentucky
    Posts
    1,709

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    Quote Originally Posted by Chevyman224 View Post
    About how much did it cost for your setup. I was going for the same for my truck and my local car audio shop said it would be about $1600
    $1600!!! seriously? wow. do some shopping around, you can find some good deals in a lot of places. i paind 120 for my amp, 100 for the pair of speakers, 170 for the component door speakers in the front doors, and i am about to buy a plug and play step up pace for my head unit that will deliver more rms to 4 speakers. that will be 150. another 100 for the sub box, and whatever it will cost you to get all your wires and stuff
    2000 silverado with a 5.3l v8, shorty headers, upgraded plugs, 10 mil wires, magnaflow high flow cats, flowmaster 80 series muffler(2 in 2 out) w/ 18 inch stainless silverline tips. i have a k&n CIA. its a 4x4 z71 offroad package. Ls model.
    extended cab 160k miles, truxedo low profile bed cover, diablo sport predator tuner.
    reman tranny @ 130k miles
    Chris

  7. #17

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    Sorry if this has already been posted out but are those kicker L5's? 10's or 12's? How much did they run you?
    www.youtube.com/ippielb
    2002 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 z71 1985 Chevrolet Silverado k10 2006 Chevrolet Silverado 2500hd 6.6l LLY Duramax
    6.5" BDS Suspension Lift Edelbrock Carb & Polished Intake Manifold & Valve Covers NAPC Race Transmission & NAPC Built Transfer Case
    EFI Live Comp Cam and Valvetrain Snow Performance Methanol Injection
    35" Toyo Open Country Mud Terrain on 18" Ion Alloy 179's Headman Long Tube Headers and True Dual Exhaust FASS 150gph Titanium Series Pump
    AirAid Cold Air Intake with K&N Dry Filter & AirAid PowerAid Throttle Body Spacer 2" Suspension Lift 33x12.50r15 Tires EFI Live & AFE Stage 2 Intake
    Pacesetter Long Tube Headers with Cats Gone True Dual Exhaust FlowPro 3.73 Gears Yukon Grizzly Locker with Mag-Hytec Cover & Traction Bars
    NGK Iridium Tips & MSD Ignition Plug Wires Baja Spare Tire Holder 33x13.5 Hankook rt03 18" XD Rims
    Innovate LC-1 Wideband o2 Sensor x2 HID's all around LED taillights and 3rd brake light
    BDS Dual Steering Stabilizers Pioneer Double-DIN Touchscreen Navigation with Two 10" Subs under rear seat
    Electric Fan Autometer Pressure, Boost, and Pyro Gauges
    4.56 Gears Airlift Air Bag Suspension

  8. #18

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    http://www.subthump.com/ctbultra.htm that is the box i got
    http://www.dealercostcaraudio.com/08s12l54.aspx here are the subs...l5's
    http://www.dealercostcaraudio.com/950.aspx that's the wiring kit i got
    i already had an amp so i saved there. total cost was 530 plus shipping

  9. #19
    Sr. Apprentice goodie's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Midland, Tx
    Posts
    54

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    Quote Originally Posted by blueZ71 View Post
    A couple of you mentioned "burning in" or some sort of "break in" period for the speakers. I have never heard of a break in period for speakers.. does it apply to smaller (6.5") door speakers as well or mainly subwoofers?

    EDIT - should i be keeping the volume below a certain level while they are breaking/burning in?

    Ya any speaker is going to have at least a short break in time. You don't need to worry about taking it easy on them though...go ahead and listen like you would normally. When the suspension loosens up the speaker will sound a little better. Some speakers/subs are stiffer then others but generally yes the suspension loosens up at least a little on all of them.
    2006 GMC Sierra 1500 4.8L V8
    1995 Trams Am 5.7L V8
    1988 Thunderbird BUILT 2.3L 4-CYL turbo
    2004 Mustang GT 4.6L V8

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