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Thread: Jerking Brakes

  1. #1
    Master Mechanic CarpenterGuy's Avatar
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    Default Jerking Brakes

    ok, i pulled the wheel off today to look at my brake rotors. i figured they were warped. when i brake, my truck shakes (high speeds) and it pulses at low speeds. i figured it was warped rotors. what could it be? should i take the rotors up to somewhere that can measure the thickness accuratly?
    2006 Silverado Z71 - 97,000 - totaled, RIP
    2006 Silverado Z71 - 122,000 (K&N 77 Series CAI, PowerAid TBS, Magnaflow dual rear exit, 33x12.50 Mickey Thompson MTZ, Tuff Country Torsion Keys, Tuff Country Add-A-Leafs)
    1966 C10 swb stepside (Gen I 350, Turbo 400 trans, dual cyl power brakes, front discs)
    I'll keep my money, guns, and freedom. You keep the Change.

  2. #2

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    The only way you can tell if the rotors are out of round is with a dial indicator. The thickness has nothing to do with your problem.
    Jim

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  3. #3

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    It definatly sounds like warped rotors so far. Does it only do it while you are using the brakes?

    IDK what the safest thickness for your rotors are but you may be able to get them machined at a shop, then you wouldent have to replace them, but they may be too thin already.
    RED LETERS HELP ME FIND MY POST.

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  4. #4

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    Judging whether a rotor is warped or not by eye is hard, unless they're very warped. It definitely does sound like that's the problem though, unless there are other symptoms indicating something else, I would have them turned.
    Scott

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  5. #5
    Legend cascott325's Avatar
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    Default

    you shold be able to get a machanic to shave them, i think NAPA can do it too.
    2000 silverado with a 5.3l v8, shorty headers, upgraded plugs, 10 mil wires, magnaflow high flow cats, flowmaster 80 series muffler(2 in 2 out) w/ 18 inch stainless silverline tips. i have a k&n CIA. its a 4x4 z71 offroad package. Ls model.
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    Chris

  6. #6

    Default

    if you can feel the brake pedal go up and down when braking the most likley problem would be warped rotors, the best solution is to put new rotors on dont get the cheap ones they will warp faster a good mid level rotor is fine.
    Do you know when the last brake job was, if new rotors where installed at that time they may be able to be turned beware when you turn the rotor under spec it will warp a lot faster and could cause further braking problems. i know if you go to oriley's and buy there premium pads they will turn your rotors for free, another warning on that part when my dad got his turned there they actually made them warped by not cleaning the mounting surfaces on the rotor.
    if you take the rotors into a good shop they will charge you to turn them but at least you know they were done right (we charge $20 per rotor)

    2003 Z71 Silverado LS
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  7. #7
    Master Mechanic CarpenterGuy's Avatar
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    Default

    I dont know when the last brake job was. I just got the truck about 1000 miles ago. The brakes have maybe a little over 50% left on them. The rotors have alot of life left so they appear. There's no grooves on the rotors either. By what all of yall have said, it looks like i'm going to have to take the rotors off and have them checked with one of those caliper measuring tool things.
    2006 Silverado Z71 - 97,000 - totaled, RIP
    2006 Silverado Z71 - 122,000 (K&N 77 Series CAI, PowerAid TBS, Magnaflow dual rear exit, 33x12.50 Mickey Thompson MTZ, Tuff Country Torsion Keys, Tuff Country Add-A-Leafs)
    1966 C10 swb stepside (Gen I 350, Turbo 400 trans, dual cyl power brakes, front discs)
    I'll keep my money, guns, and freedom. You keep the Change.

  8. #8
    Sr. Apprentice
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    Default

    Carpenter Guy,

    It definitely sounds like warped rotors. Any shaking or pusling in your brakes are usually due to warped rotors. If you pull them off, don't even both with measuring them, just take them down to a shop to have them turned. It's usually very cheap, and is 90% likely to be your problem. Plus it will give your pad a nice, clean smooth surface to grab.

    If you want to save time and make your life a little easier, you can buy a 2nd set of new rotors, just swap them, and turn the older ones at your leisure. Then, the next time you need to have your rotors turned, you can just swap rotors with your other set & go. You don't need to waste a few hours waiting for the rotors to get turned with your truck up on jack stands that way.

    I just put a new set of cross-drilled and slotted rotors on my truck to both cure a slight wobble in the brakes, and improve my brake performance. They cost a little more, and can't be resurfaced as easy as stock rotors, but stop better in dry and wet and resist fade much better.

  9. #9
    Master Mechanic CarpenterGuy's Avatar
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    Thats a good idea with the 2 sets of rotors.

    How much were your rotors? I might look at some cross drilled rotors.
    2006 Silverado Z71 - 97,000 - totaled, RIP
    2006 Silverado Z71 - 122,000 (K&N 77 Series CAI, PowerAid TBS, Magnaflow dual rear exit, 33x12.50 Mickey Thompson MTZ, Tuff Country Torsion Keys, Tuff Country Add-A-Leafs)
    1966 C10 swb stepside (Gen I 350, Turbo 400 trans, dual cyl power brakes, front discs)
    I'll keep my money, guns, and freedom. You keep the Change.

  10. #10
    Sr. Apprentice
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by CarpenterGuy View Post
    Thats a good idea with the 2 sets of rotors.

    How much were your rotors? I might look at some cross drilled rotors.

    I found the Cross-Drilled & slotted rotors on e-bay, and all four rotors with ceramic pads were $256, shipped to my door. Not too bad. So far, I have swapped the front rotors & pads and have noticed a difference. I didn't know the rears have the inner-drum brake for the parking brake, so I need to get some shoes for that before I do the rears.

    This is the website of the company: http://stores.ebay.com/Brakemotive

    I also bought some red caliper paint, just for looks. As soon as we get a long stretch of warm weather, I'll do my calipers.

    Good luck.

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