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  1. #1
    Jr. Mechanic TMRuiz's Avatar
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    Default I need some help ova ear!!!!!

    Hey ppl's it's been quite awhile since I had to deal with replacing front break disc. I was doing some searching online for a set of new brake disc and I found a set of "AIMCO" slotted and drilled rotors within my budget range but I know nothing about AIMCO. Can someone help out comments on this brand or direct me in the direction I need to go in. The replacement rotors on going on my wife's 08 HHR and yes having the vented and or drilled rotors is necessary due to her driving habbits. Thanks in advance.
    [/SIGPIC]07 Silverado LS factory 20's, spray in bedliner, in-bed cargo managment system, matching tint on front windows, K&N CAI, and Hypertech Max Engery Tuner and yet even more mods to come.

  2. #2
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    TRPLXL2's Avatar
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    I have never heard of AIMCO, but I totally understand the braking thing. I always thought that the cross drilled and slotted rotors were a lot more expensive than regular rotors, that's why I am going to suggest these pads for you. My mom is also horrible about riding the brakes really hard, she used to only get 15,000 out of a set of brakes NO JOKE! My dad got fed up with here going through them so fast, so he switched over to these brake pads called "Green Stuff". She gets anywhere between 30,000-40,000 miles on her brakes now, they run between $70 a pair up to $100 a pair for the larger pads for the trucks. They make them for all sorts of vehicles, and they sell them at most auto parts stores or we bought ours at Summit Racing. We use them in conjunction with the regular rotors, and we have had no problems with them.

    BTW: they create no brake dust, so you don't have to worry about your chrome wheels getting all nasty and black. Just a suggestion, good luck with your decision.

    http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/att...1&d=1236383677
    Last edited by TRPLXL2; 03-07-2009 at 06:33 PM.
    2004 Chevy Colorado
    LS1 5.7 swap/TBSS rear axle swap

  3. #3
    Legend cascott325's Avatar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by TRPLXL2 View Post
    I have never heard of AIMCO, but I totally understand the braking thing. I always thought that the cross drilled and slotted rotors were a lot more expensive than regular rotors, that's why I am going to suggest these pads for you. My mom is also horrible about riding the brakes really hard, she used to only get 15,000 out of a set of brakes NO JOKE! My dad got fed up with here going through them so fast, so he switched over to these brake pads called "Green Stuff". She gets anywhere between 30,000-40,000 miles on her brakes now, they run between $70 a pair up to $100 a pair for the larger pads for the trucks. They make them for all sorts of vehicles, and they sell them at most auto parts stores or we bought ours at Summit Racing. We use them in conjunction with the regular rotors, and we have had no problems with them.

    BTW: they create no brake dust, so you don't have to worry about your chrome wheels getting all nasty and black. Just a suggestion, good luck with your decision.

    http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/att...1&d=1236383677

    that is so freakin sweet. i am going to put those on next break change. would drilled and slotted rotors do better?
    2000 silverado with a 5.3l v8, shorty headers, upgraded plugs, 10 mil wires, magnaflow high flow cats, flowmaster 80 series muffler(2 in 2 out) w/ 18 inch stainless silverline tips. i have a k&n CIA. its a 4x4 z71 offroad package. Ls model.
    extended cab 160k miles, truxedo low profile bed cover, diablo sport predator tuner.
    reman tranny @ 130k miles
    Chris

  4. #4
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    I have a boss at work that has a CTS-V 400 hp, and his car has the slotted and cross drilled rotors and they stop on a dime. He says they are really good at dissapating heat, but he had one actually crack on him before because you are weakening the rotor it's self. Keep in mind this guy rarely drives under 120, and he is real big into the drifting sport so it doesn't surprise me. Under normal driving conditions I would say that they are good enough, especially some of the big rollers! (SSBC, BAER, WILWOOD, GMPP)
    2004 Chevy Colorado
    LS1 5.7 swap/TBSS rear axle swap

  5. #5
    Master Mechanic daddytech's Avatar
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    First question, can you see on the box anywhere that it says made in China, Mylasia, Hong Kong, Japan or Korea? if so I'd honestly look for one that is made in the states first, the others aren't bad but they don't seem to hold up as well to the high temps and heavy breaking that the american parts do for some reason . don't know why, maybe there's less lead in the American ones or something lol

    Second question do you do a lot of heavy pulling or long trips? if so the drilled and slotted may be better for you but just for around town the standard ones work just fine and they are usually much cheaper. Also you want to make sure that the drilled holes are at an angle. Hard to believe but I have actually seen some that look like some dummy just marked them and drilled straight into the rotors on (no slots at all on those either mind you, just the drilled holes) so you have to be careful with what you are getting. specially since breaks are the most important thing out of every other component no sense in going too cheap on it or buying some knock off that bubba's auto parts thought they could get more for because now they got them little bitty holes all in them now like them espensive car rotors do.

    Just something else to ponder

  6. #6

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    I agree that the EBC pads are more probably better suited for your situation. If you are going to enter the HHR in car shows, then maybe you'd like the bling of slotted rotors...but the pads are going to work just as well otherwise.
    You may consider sending your wife to a driving school. Not to sound harsh, but flogging an HHR can't be very fulfilling. I am a driving instructor, so I've seen all kinds of bad habits when it comes to braking.
    On my C5 (Corvette) race car, I never used slotted or drilled rotors. I could wear out front rotors in 3 days, and the rears in 6 track days. Pads and tires only lasted that long, too.It was just the price to pay to drive at the limits. My C6 has slotted & drilled rotors. I think they have held up better, but I haven't pushed that car as hard since I have 2 other race cars. Cracks are starting to form at the drilled holes. I'll replace them w/ the same discs b/c that is OEM.
    The race cars have slotted (but not drilled) rotors on the front. I'm somewhat limited by choices on these, since the racing calipers only accept certain discs.
    Summary: get cheap discs and good pads. See rockauto.com for good prices.

  7. #7
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    I just bought a complete 4 wheel kit made by SSBC with all 4 Slotted rotors and pads for my Wife's 2001 Suburban and we are amazed at how much better they stop than OEM brakes, like night and day! The complete kit cost me $450 (prices vary with application) and free shipping from Autoanything.com.
    Darcy
    Washington State
    2006 Silverado 2500HD LT3 4X4 CC SB Duramax LBZ
    Tuff Country 6" lift, 35" Toyo M/T's on 20" Ultra Peacemaker wheels, Quadzilla Stealth2 programmer, Diamond Eye 5" cat-back exhaust, factory Special order color Yellow.

  8. #8
    Master Mechanic daddytech's Avatar
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    wish i were adventurous enough to be able to convert my tahoe over to 4 wheel disk brakes, I hate drum brakes.

  9. #9
    Jr. Mechanic TMRuiz's Avatar
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    Thanks guys, I just saw those slotted and drilled rotors on some web site that was a link from this site. I think I only need to replace the rotors due to them being warped. I know I can get them turned but not sure if they will be able to cut the down that much or if I have to just out right replace them. Sorry probably should mentioned the rotors were warped in the first place.
    [/SIGPIC]07 Silverado LS factory 20's, spray in bedliner, in-bed cargo managment system, matching tint on front windows, K&N CAI, and Hypertech Max Engery Tuner and yet even more mods to come.

  10. #10
    Legend bry2500's Avatar
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    if your wife is a speed freak then going with drilled and slotted. It will be worth it. If she just rides the brakes then drilled rotors are more than enough. Drilled rotors help dissapate enough heat for most drivers but for those who drive fast and brake hard drilled and slotted rotors are better. The slots help dissapate the heat better and also resurface the pads when you brake. They help remove any dust also allowing it to travel to the edge of the rotor. This way the next time the brakes are applied you have a fresh contact surface. If she is a brake rider then I would still get drilled rotors because she'll heat up solid rotors and one puddle later they'll be warped again.
    BRYAN

    "IF YOU DON'T TREAT IT LIKE A TRUCK IT'S JUST A REALLY BIG CAR"

    02' Avalanche 2500 Onyx Black
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