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05-01-2012, 07:25 PM #11
I was looking at doing my front brakes but it's a little itimadating for someone who's last brake job was on a 76 impala. If someone had a how to do list with pic's that would be great.
2003 Tahoe LT 4X4 Z71
05-02-2012, 10:19 AM #12
I will be doing mine brakes in the next week or so. If someone does not beat me to it I will post picks. If you plan on doing more work on your own vehicle I suggest you pickup a haynes or chiltons manual for your vehicle. They are under $20 and have plenty of pics and torque specs you may need.
1995 Silverado 4x4
6" BDS Suspension Lift-3" Body Lift-Add A Leaf in rear -Trailmaster SSV Shocks-Duel Steering Stabilizer Kit -AirAid Cold air intake-
4.56 Gears with Detroit Auburn Locker-Pro-Comp Traction Bars with duel shocks-Aluminum Skid Plate Kit-38.5" x 16.5" Mickey Thompson Baja Claws-Constant Dropping fuel gauge
2005 Yukon XL Jet Power Programmer, Bilstein Shocks, Bilstein rear springs, Helwig Anti-sway bars, EGR Window Visors, EGR Hood Shield, Denali Headlights, Headlight harness upgrade, GE NightHawk Bulbs, White Night Rear lighting system, Russell Braided SS brake lines, PowerStop Brake pads, PowerStop cross drilled and Slotted Rotors, http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/sho...5-GMC-Yukon-XL
2002 Silverado ext cab 2wd (Sold)
2003 Yukon XL (Totaled)
05-02-2012, 05:16 PM #13
05-02-2012, 11:27 PM #14
only if the slides are frozen in place or the piston is leaking. I could post a step by step instruction now. I am having an issue locating our camera.
05-03-2012, 02:10 AM #15
When I was talking about the calipers I was thinking of buying them rebuilt....I think that doing them myself is past my skill...Thanks Eric
05-03-2012, 07:47 AM #16
05-03-2012, 03:22 PM #17
05-03-2012, 04:41 PM #18
---------- Post added at 05:41 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:11 PM ----------
Here is my quick write up on pad replacement.
Break all lug nuts loose.
-Jack up vehicle and support with jack stands.
-I suggest doing one side at a time incase you need to use the other side as reference.
-Remove two caliper bolts. I think that they are Torques head. You may need a wrench to hold the guide pins from spinning.
Put the wrench just on the otherside of the caliper, There are flat spots there, you may have to move the rubber boot alittle to find them
-Hang the caliper out of the way with a piece of wire, so it is not hanging on the brake line or abs wire.
-The pads are removed by sliding them away from the caliper. the outside pad slides down the metal brackets toward you. The inside slides toward the motor.
-pay attention to what pad came from the outside and which one came from the inside, you will use these for reference when installing the new pads
-If replacing rotors remove the two large bolts that hold the caliper mount to the steering knuckle. (Probably going to need a breaker bar because these are torqued at around 225 ft.lb
Before putting your new rotors on, clean with break clean to remove any coating applied during shipping. I always take a rough piece of sand paper and rough the rotor surfaces, front and back, when I worked in the garage we had seen cars come back that had some strange noises during braking, roughing the surfaces of the rotors remedied this.
-Look at the caliper mounting bracket, you will see the metal slides the came in your kit, pay attention to their orientation. remove the old metal slides and install the new ones exactly how the old ones came off. Being careful to make sure they are fully seated and clipped securely in place. Look at the middle of the clip being sure that the section in fully seated.
-Next, look at the bracket and locate where the caliper mounting bolts screwed in. There will be rubber boots on these pins. Give them a good pull and remove them. Clean them well with brake clean, looking for any damage on them. I always spray some brake clean into the hole with the straw and then put -After cleaning the holes and the pins. Lube them well with sil glyde.
-push the pins back into the holes and make sure the rubber boots seat correctly. Slide them in and out and make sure that they move freely.
-put a little sil glyde on the metal clips where the pads will ride. Not a lot, it attracts dust. Just a thin layer
-remount the caliper bracket.
-I always put a few washers on a wheel stud and screw a lug nut on, this is to hold the rotor in the proper position while installing the pads.
-Some people install brake quite on the backside of the pads to stop any noise. most good pads come with shims already mounted, this makes the brake quite unnecessary. Some manufactures will void the warranty if you use it.
-install the new pads. Sliding them into the clips just like the old ones came off. Pay attention that the wear indicator tabs are in the same location as the pads you removed. they should go in smoothly and move along the clips freely. I have actually had to file alittle off the ears of the pad to make them move correctly. make sure that the pads seat flat against the rotor and are not cocked in any way.
-using an old pad put it into the caliper against the pistons and use a C-clamp to push the piston in all the way.
-reinstall caliper and bolts (I put anti-seize on the threads of the bolts so they come apart next time easily.
-Pump brake pedal to get the caliper tight on the pads, DO NOT DO THIS IF BOTH CALIPERS ARE NOT MOUNTED IN THEIR FINAL POSITION WITH PADS IN PLACE
-remove the lug nut and washers holding the rotor in place.
I will try to pull my truck apart this weekend and post pictures. I don't need pads, but I want to lube the guide pins. (bought the truck used and the rear pins were dry) I know that people have different ways of doing the job. So please don't give me crap about my method. You can just pull one caliper mounting bolt and swing the caliper upward, replace the pads and put it back together. This does not address cleaning and greasing the guide pins. I will also try to post torq specs required later.
---------- Post added at 05:41 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:41 PM ----------
Caliper mounting(guide pin) bolts: 80 ft-lbs
Caliper mounting bracket bolts: (for 2500 model):221ft.lbs, will look up 10500 model tonight
Lug nuts: 140 ft-lbs
Last edited by Pikey; 05-03-2012 at 07:44 PM. Reason: add info
05-03-2012, 07:39 PM #19
Thanks again Pikey, Thats more info than the man. I was trying to fuigure out what held the rotors down. I had the truck up on stands last week and was trying to brake the calipers free and noticed a star type bolt so I went to sears and bought the right sockets, I hope. Again Thanks for all the info...Eric
05-03-2012, 07:45 PM #20
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I'll go ahead and do one next weekend when I do my pads. Mine are sitting at about 15% right now so they need new ones anyway, and I would do them this weekend, but being on call limits mods or repairs/maintenance to the truck to ones that I don't have to tear it apart to get done.2005 Chevy Silverado W/T
4X4|4.8 with some mods (has only slightly more pull than a 5.3)|Auto|4 door ex cab|Cooper Discoverer AT/3's in 285-75/17's on Helo 842's|Cooper Discover M+S 265-75/17's on Devino DV349's|Flowmaster 40 Single in Dual out with custom bent pipe from the end of the cats back|2" Procomp leveling kit|Custom made center console|Custom dyno tunes|Air Raid CAI|Air Raid Throttle Body Spacer|Apex brand topper|Kenwood Head Unit with Kenwood speakers|Painted mirrors/grille|Debadged except front emblem|Bilsteins front and rear
Planned mods not in order
2 inch lift|Custom front/rear bumper|hitch tire carrier|roof basket on topper, bars on cab|finish center console build|install Midland CB|Power options|Tint|Custom made raised bed in the bed of the truck|Lund LunarVisor
Also have a 1992 Ford Ranger with a lot of stuff done to it. Currently waiting for a bit of a rebuild.
"The only woman I'm pimping from now on is Sweet Lady Propane. And I'm tricking her out all over this town."
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