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  1. #1

    Wink DRL's, LEDs, Bulbs, lions, tigers, bears....

    I have read several items on the net about replacing clear DRL bulbs in 2004-2007 Silvers with Amber bulbs and also LED bulbs.

    One account indicated that the 4114 stock bulb is made for 14 volts and the 3157 Amber is made for 12, so the 3157 won't survive. I don't buy into this. All of the bulbs in the truck have to be able to take 14-15 volts occasionally and at least 13.5 all the time, unless it;s one that specifically has a regulator circuit for some reason.

    I have had 3157 Amber in my DRL's for over 2 years....no burnout, no overheat, nothing. Socket is not damaged either. If anything the 4114 bulb spec is probably 16 volts so that it does not run "at capacity" all the time. I know the 3157 works to same brightness as my flashers, so it is not being overdriven.

    For LED's, I have read where guys are putting a 1/2 watt, 15 Ohm resistor in series with the socket to reduce voltage by 1.5 to 2 volts and keep LED's at 11.5 -12 so they don't burn out. If you buy a good LED with a regulator built in, they should be fine. I am going to try a set soon, but I know others that have and they work fine. Initally everyone said LED's won't work in the DRL circuit, but I don't think the circuit was the problem.

    On my 2000 S10 Xtreme (wish I still owned) I turned off the DRL circuit that drove the high beams at 3/4 voltage because those suck. Instead I installed a set of sockets on the inner portion of the font marker light lense on each side where GM put socket holes, but no light. There is only one on the outside part. I put 912 bulbs in those and intially put them on the Ign for DRLs, but later changed them to 194's and ran them with the parking lights to light up the whole lense like GM should have to begin with.

    Also, if you need a good rear end warning light to compliment your 4-ways for those occaisional roadside stops to chaneg an old lady's tire.....convert your cargo light to a alternating flasher. You simply seperate the bulbs leads and install a alternating flasher (Federal Signal) powered by the lead from the switch. Alternating white lights up high like that get more attention that the red ones blinking on the back. You need all the help you can get now days, people drive like maniacs and are only concerned with themselves, thier phone and iPod.
    Last edited by Quarterwave; 03-29-2009 at 09:58 AM.

  2. #2
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    Welcome to the site!
    Darcy
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    welcome to the site... nice intro
    2000 silverado with a 5.3l v8, shorty headers, upgraded plugs, 10 mil wires, magnaflow high flow cats, flowmaster 80 series muffler(2 in 2 out) w/ 18 inch stainless silverline tips. i have a k&n CIA. its a 4x4 z71 offroad package. Ls model.
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    I do think that is true what you said about the better LED's having resistors built in, I have never had to put any kind of resistors on my truck and they all work fine. At one time I had 16 LED's in my front headlights and marker lights, and they were also the color changing ones. I had to take them out because I got a fix it ticket, but they were awesome looking for sure. Welcome to the club too!
    2004 Chevy Colorado
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  5. #5

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    Quaterwave, you still out there? Can you give me details on converting my cargo lights to wigwag?
    2004 Silverado crew cab. Thanks! Anyone?

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    Welcome! And good info
    Be Blessed

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    i just got my LEDs all done in my truck. ill post some pics up to let you guys know the heat spots and stuff like that.

    2004 4.8| Custom Paint| Tint| De-badged| Shaved Tailgate| Rollpan| Smoked Tails| Color Matched| Lowered 5/8| Suede Interior| Color Matched Interior| Indash & TVs| Mids-Lows & 2 12" CVRs| 500 & 1100 Interfires| Soundeadener| Outlaw CAI| Magnaflow|
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  8. #8

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    Quote Originally Posted by dwdodd View Post
    Quaterwave, you still out there? Can you give me details on converting my cargo lights to wigwag?
    2004 Silverado crew cab. Thanks! Anyone?
    Sure.

    You need a FA3 or similair alternating flasher (compact, about the size of 2 small match boxes), I will have look on the net to see who makes them....mine was an old one from where I used to work for a shop where emergency equipment was installed, so it is like 15 years old.

    Really you just disconnect the switched power lead coming from the dash switch for the cargo light, then seperate the individual light leads (positive ones that were hooked to the incoming siwtched lead) and then put female spade connectors on all three, plug in the power to the input on the flasher, and one light wire to each side of the outputs. You are essentially making school bus lights. I will take pic of mine and post it if I get a chance.

  9. #9

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    You can take resistors and wire them into your daytime running lights so that the LED's don't get over charged and burn out. You can get the resistors at circuit city, or any store like that. The resistors will limit the current going through, I've read it's best to be around the 11.6v-11.8v. This is if you're running LED lights.
    www.youtube.com/ippielb
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    Quote Originally Posted by ippielb View Post
    You can take resistors and wire them into your daytime running lights so that the LED's don't get over charged and burn out. You can get the resistors at circuit city, or any store like that. The resistors will limit the current going through, I've read it's best to be around the 11.6v-11.8v. This is if you're running LED lights.
    You don't have to wire resistors into the factory wiring, IF you buy good quality bulbs they are already built into the bulb itself. My dad just bought a set of Jamm Straight bulbs for his Street Rod, and the resistors are actually inside of the bulb.

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