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Thread: Roller Bearings in rear end
04-07-2009, 12:43 PM #1
Roller Bearings in rear end
i recently heard some rattling in my rear and of my 94 chevy 1500 4x4. so i pulled off the rear end cover and found about 8 roller bearings laying in the bottom of the pumpkin. any ideas on repair and or write ups on replacment? thanks
04-07-2009, 01:15 PM #2
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Very interesting....I guess those bearings came from the inner axle bearings or something. Looks like you have either an axle swap or an axle rebuild ahead of you. The swap may just turn out cheapr if you can find the same type of axle with the same gear ratio in a junkyard or something. Also, if you pull the ring an pinion in the rebuild you would have to send it to a shop to have the wear pattern reset.Christopher
1991 Chevy Suburban 1/2 ton 2WD w/ chevy SBC 350-3/4 ton drivetrain upgrade w/4.10 gears 199K miles
2005 Saturn ION-2 Stock 255K miles
1982 Bronco, 1993 Bronco (sold), 1971 M35A2 Deuce and a Half
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04-07-2009, 02:11 PM #3
yea i figured i found a rear end in a junk yard that is a 373 but it is not off of a 4 wheel drive truck so i didnt know if that may be a problem or not.
04-07-2009, 10:28 PM #4
Two- or Four-Wheel-Drive shouldn't matter, but swapping axles isn't as easy as the old days. The easiest is to make sure the replacement axle came out of a Suburban, Tahoe, Denali, Yukon or Escalade. Next, make sure it has the same number of lugs. Matching build codes (GT4/G80) helps.
A C/K-pickup truck axle will bolt up and work, but the drum brakes are smaller, the parking brake cable won't fit properly, and there's no place to mount the rear sway bay (ask me how I know...).
If you don't know the axle's pedigree, measure everything - distance between the drum backing plates, drum diameter and width, # of lugs, size of the u-joint yoke on the pinion.... I once bought 3.73 10-bolt rear for my '86 Suburban to replace the 3.42 axle. Everything bolted up perfectly... except the u-joint. The saddle was a different size. Luckily I wasn't the first to run across this problem - there are "conversion U-joints", a cross with two different size arms to match the driveshaft and pinion.
Last time I checked, the correct used axle was about $1000 (here in Connecticut). If it were me I'd take the truck off the road and rebuild the current axle. All new parts (ring & pinion, all bearings and seals for pinion, ring and axle) runs about $400. This way you know you have the correct axle.
Last edited by KirkW; 04-07-2009 at 10:35 PM.Kirk
04-07-2009, 10:54 PM #5
i contacted a powertrain shop here in south florida and they said that for the rebuild it would run me anywhere from about $700 to $1200.My other opition is a rear end that i found in a junkyard that is from a truck like mine. it has a 373 because i matched the codes that i got from a dealer. and the junk yard wants about $350 for it.so im sort of a a crossroads here.
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