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  1. #1

    Default Voltage gage keeps pegging out

    The voltage gage keeps pegging out at 19volts. Occasionally it will even go about 1/2 inches beyond the max limit. I can usually turn the engine off and back on about 5-8 times and it will reset back to normal. A few days later it will do the same thing again.

    Sears replaced the battery in december; asked them about this issue and they told me i needed a new alternator. But here it is almost May and my alternator seems to be working properly as the truck is still running good and starts every morning with almost 122k miles.

    Any clues as to what this could be? Maybe a servo motor gone bad?

  2. #2
    Legend

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    Default

    Here's some information that would help a LOT:

    What kind of vehicle, what year?

    Check the actual voltage. If the gauge ever pegs out while you are at home check your voltage at the battery. If you are reading 13-ish volts while the engine is running, then your gauge is suspect. Depending on what year your vehicle is you might be able to replace the stepper motor.

    If you manually read the same high voltage as on the gauge, then you may be in need of a new alternator or have some other issue going on.
    Steven



    "The Sarge"
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  3. #3
    Legend unplugged's Avatar
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    Yep, it helps to know model, year equipment etc.
    Certain GMTs had instrument cluster issues.
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  4. #4

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    Sorry...my signature was not set up when I posted.

    Vehicle is 2003 Silverado 1500 Ext Cab Z71 with the 5.3L.
    2003 Silverado 5.3L Z71

  5. #5
    Legend

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    You may be in luck to have one of the recall years if I'm not mistaken. I don't know if you still qualify but contact your local dealership and ask them about the gauge cluster recall.

  6. #6
    Jr. Engineer
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    I would meter the battery out, and when its running you should read no more than 13.8VDC when testing pos to neg on battery terminals. If you are reading any higher than 14vdc I would suspect your voltage regulator first. Those are usually a 15-20 dollar part and much easier to replace, and check without paying big bucks for an alternator to find out it really is a 20 buck part.

    1993 K1500 Suburban 350TBI, 378,486KMS on frame, 49,000KMS on Drivetrain. Lots of mods, built for haulin trailers and haulin @$$ :)

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  7. #7

    Default

    What LostSoul said. If the alt is putting out too much voltage you'll start experiencing dead battery type issues, but it's the battery getting killed by too much voltage. Ask me how I know.
    Christopher

    1991 Chevy Suburban 1/2 ton 2WD w/ chevy SBC 350-3/4 ton drivetrain upgrade w/4.10 gears 200K miles
    2005 Saturn ION-2 Stock 277K miles
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  8. #8

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by L0sts0ul View Post
    I would meter the battery out, and when its running you should read no more than 13.8VDC when testing pos to neg on battery terminals. If you are reading any higher than 14vdc I would suspect your voltage regulator first. Those are usually a 15-20 dollar part and much easier to replace, and check without paying big bucks for an alternator to find out it really is a 20 buck part.
    I tried this the other day and I with the truck running i was getting between 14 and 14.2VDC. Looks like I will be looking up how to test the voltage regulator. I've got a repair manual at home...will check it first.

  9. #9

    Default

    14.2 is not out of line and the fact that your gauge reads 19+, I would check into the gauge cluster recall.
    Gary

    99 K 1500 Suburban
    78 Silverado Big 10 w/factory 454
    00 S-10 Blazer
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