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  1. #11

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    Quote Originally Posted by MeanGreenMachine View Post
    Just wanted to update everyone on what I've found out:
    I checked all the grounds I could find, cleaned them off, replaced wiring where it looked like it needed to be done, etc. After all this, I still had the problem.
    I added another set of cables to the neg battery side, ground to chassis, then to frame, but neither way fixed it.
    On a hunch today, I switched back to my old alternator...and...it fixed the problem. Even though I had two different shops tell me the alternator was testing fine. Obviously I need to find a new place to take it when I need work done.
    So I am guessing the internal voltage regulator is not working on the HO alternator.
    The flip side is that I should never have to worry about grounds again.
    i have had the alt. regulator go bad on both my vehicles, on my truck it was overcharging my battery causing it to leak, and on my car it was doing the dimming light routine like you mentioned. i understand how frustrating this was for ya bro!!
    Scott-Mississippi
    1996 Silverado
    *Mostly stock for now
    *Soon to be airbag project..

  2. #12
    Master Mechanic daddytech's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MeanGreenMachine View Post
    I can have all the accessories off - everything - and still have the problem.
    I can also crank my stereo all the way up and not have the pulsating lights (200 amp alternator fixed that). My amp is a 4 channel bridged to 2 channel, which pushes about 250w RMS to 2 subs.
    It is only under heavy acceleration that I see the problem.

    BTW - Nice setup on the system. You do the work?
    yes I have been installing car stereo (for a while professionally) since i was 14 years old and i am almost 40 now (God where did all the time go?) yeah i would say if you are noticing power surge with a 250 watt amp something isn't wired right somewhere. with that much alternator and that little power going out you shouldn't notice ANY light dimming or anything else even if it is a High Current amp which is commonly referred to as a "cheater amp" Another thing I would ask is where is your amp grounded? it makes a huge difference. It also makes a huge difference where and how your main power wire is run for the amp, what it's plugged into, what it's connected with, wheather or not it's fused, and also if you have a capacitor on it or not.

    Believe it or not the Amp wire can pick up or even cause EMI (Electro Magnetic Interferance) with your other components and electrical accessories. The power wires for even the smallest of amps needs to be no smaller than 8 guage the wire needs to be run straight from the battery through the firewall to the amp with as few breaks or junction points as possible and fused both at the battery and at the amp it's self it needs to be wrapped in wire loom the whole length of the wire too. the ground needs to be attached to a bare (non painted ) ground point. I usually use seat mounts through the floorboard of the vehicle. I buff off the paint and put Naval Jelly on the contact point to keep it from rusting then bolt everything back down. The remote amp wire (blue wire usually) I also wrap in wire loom the whole way from the amp to the radio. (no fuse on this wire) if you still have issues after everything is set up that way then usually that means that one or more of your components in your truck is putting a major draw of current on the electrical system and the only other thing I can offer is adding a stiffening capacitor. The formula is 1 farad per 1000 watts so you would only need a 1 farad for your system.

    here's a good one
    http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAu...roductID=20002

    aside from that the only time it would be an issue is if there is a short in your amp it's self

    what brand of Amp are you running ? sometimes that plays into the whole scenario too because with car stereo the old addage "you get what you pay for" rings true more than with anything else i've ever purchased. I referr to my example of the 4000 watt amp that just couldn't take the torture. it was a low grade amp but then i only paid $189.00 for it too so the fact it lasted through 6 months of torture was a big thing but Lanzar makes a competition grade amp also (Opti series amps) had i gone with one of those to begin with there wouldn't have been an issue. I went instead with an all Crunch setup and I am happy for the moment with it though it still doesn't do all i would like it to.

    I've built and helped build some systems that would rattle store front windows from across the street almost to the point of cracking the glass from 30 - 50 ft away so anything less than that kind of power always leaves me wanting more. mine is however not a "competition" system so anything that i don't have to totally break the bank for is a plus at this point. specially since i also have a home now and 5 kids to feed and raise. (another side of getting old that sucks)

    Anyone that is thinking of planning out a system or just needs help, hints or suggestions I will gladly help any way i can. Keep in mind though I do have my favorites where the name brands are concerned. Most of my opinions are based on what i have witnessed first hand performance wise and also relates to what I know of the products durability as well.

  3. #13
    Jr. Apprentice missingremote's Avatar
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    Carolina Beach, n.c.
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    Default Elec Terminal

    Had the same problem on two other cars. Was a lose battery post. I neeeded to remove Positive and negative clamps. Clean all connections with wire brush tool. Apply Electlitic gel to clean battery post. re-tighten batery cables W/o cross threading for a good connection. Dash Lights should stop flikering - worked for me. Helps if you do this yourself. $ mechanics have not correctly tightend or install my batteries!

  4. #14
    Master Mechanic daddytech's Avatar
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    kinda sorta had a similar issue with one of my vehicles the other day , cross threaded terminal on the battery causing the truck not to stay running right. even got a light out of it.

  5. #15

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    try using a capacitor or possibly dual batteries

  6. #16
    Legend 2ToNe04's Avatar
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    You should upgrade to the bigger alts chevy has available i forget the volts it puts out ill look for it though.

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  7. #17
    Master Mechanic daddytech's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MeanGreenMachine View Post
    Just wanted to update everyone on what I've found out:
    I checked all the grounds I could find, cleaned them off, replaced wiring where it looked like it needed to be done, etc. After all this, I still had the problem.
    I added another set of cables to the neg battery side, ground to chassis, then to frame, but neither way fixed it.
    On a hunch today, I switched back to my old alternator...and...it fixed the problem. Even though I had two different shops tell me the alternator was testing fine. Obviously I need to find a new place to take it when I need work done.
    So I am guessing the internal voltage regulator is not working on the HO alternator.
    The flip side is that I should never have to worry about grounds again.
    all of your grounds will help as long as they are good grounds. not sure who you heard that from but it's true.
    I ran into a guy that was an engineer who had a mitsubishi evo limited turbo that he built a biggger turbo for using his own cnc machine. He had modded the fire out of this car. he built a new exhaust system for the car out of a bell helicopter exhaust. then he used part of the helicopter pipe to make his own cold air intake with a bend in it to fit around the other components in the car properly. any way he had extra grounds running all over that motor and to the frame then back to the battery ground and when i questioned him about it he said that all those grounds actually gainedhim horsepower and gas mileage. Then he went into all the specifics about it and really confused the hell out of me with numbers and technical terms as to why it was a good thing and I helped him sum it up that basically all the grounds to the heads, the block, the waterpump,exhaust manifold and intake were just a big help. he agreed and when you think about it the gounds all make sense being that high current electrical charges pass through all of those things at some point so adding all those grounds keep things running cooler and smoother and long term makes things last much longer also.

    so yeah you can never have too many grounds.

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