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Thread: Dimming Dash Lights
05-10-2009, 07:25 PM #11Scott-Mississippi
*Mostly stock for now
*Soon to be airbag project..
05-11-2009, 09:27 AM #12
Believe it or not the Amp wire can pick up or even cause EMI (Electro Magnetic Interferance) with your other components and electrical accessories. The power wires for even the smallest of amps needs to be no smaller than 8 guage the wire needs to be run straight from the battery through the firewall to the amp with as few breaks or junction points as possible and fused both at the battery and at the amp it's self it needs to be wrapped in wire loom the whole length of the wire too. the ground needs to be attached to a bare (non painted ) ground point. I usually use seat mounts through the floorboard of the vehicle. I buff off the paint and put Naval Jelly on the contact point to keep it from rusting then bolt everything back down. The remote amp wire (blue wire usually) I also wrap in wire loom the whole way from the amp to the radio. (no fuse on this wire) if you still have issues after everything is set up that way then usually that means that one or more of your components in your truck is putting a major draw of current on the electrical system and the only other thing I can offer is adding a stiffening capacitor. The formula is 1 farad per 1000 watts so you would only need a 1 farad for your system.
here's a good one
aside from that the only time it would be an issue is if there is a short in your amp it's self
what brand of Amp are you running ? sometimes that plays into the whole scenario too because with car stereo the old addage "you get what you pay for" rings true more than with anything else i've ever purchased. I referr to my example of the 4000 watt amp that just couldn't take the torture. it was a low grade amp but then i only paid $189.00 for it too so the fact it lasted through 6 months of torture was a big thing but Lanzar makes a competition grade amp also (Opti series amps) had i gone with one of those to begin with there wouldn't have been an issue. I went instead with an all Crunch setup and I am happy for the moment with it though it still doesn't do all i would like it to.
I've built and helped build some systems that would rattle store front windows from across the street almost to the point of cracking the glass from 30 - 50 ft away so anything less than that kind of power always leaves me wanting more. mine is however not a "competition" system so anything that i don't have to totally break the bank for is a plus at this point. specially since i also have a home now and 5 kids to feed and raise. (another side of getting old that sucks)
Anyone that is thinking of planning out a system or just needs help, hints or suggestions I will gladly help any way i can. Keep in mind though I do have my favorites where the name brands are concerned. Most of my opinions are based on what i have witnessed first hand performance wise and also relates to what I know of the products durability as well.
07-03-2009, 05:34 PM #13
Had the same problem on two other cars. Was a lose battery post. I neeeded to remove Positive and negative clamps. Clean all connections with wire brush tool. Apply Electlitic gel to clean battery post. re-tighten batery cables W/o cross threading for a good connection. Dash Lights should stop flikering - worked for me. Helps if you do this yourself. $ mechanics have not correctly tightend or install my batteries!
07-06-2009, 10:50 AM #14
kinda sorta had a similar issue with one of my vehicles the other day , cross threaded terminal on the battery causing the truck not to stay running right. even got a light out of it.
07-08-2009, 11:56 AM #15
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try using a capacitor or possibly dual batteries
07-08-2009, 12:35 PM #16
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07-13-2009, 03:12 PM #17
I ran into a guy that was an engineer who had a mitsubishi evo limited turbo that he built a biggger turbo for using his own cnc machine. He had modded the fire out of this car. he built a new exhaust system for the car out of a bell helicopter exhaust. then he used part of the helicopter pipe to make his own cold air intake with a bend in it to fit around the other components in the car properly. any way he had extra grounds running all over that motor and to the frame then back to the battery ground and when i questioned him about it he said that all those grounds actually gainedhim horsepower and gas mileage. Then he went into all the specifics about it and really confused the hell out of me with numbers and technical terms as to why it was a good thing and I helped him sum it up that basically all the grounds to the heads, the block, the waterpump,exhaust manifold and intake were just a big help. he agreed and when you think about it the gounds all make sense being that high current electrical charges pass through all of those things at some point so adding all those grounds keep things running cooler and smoother and long term makes things last much longer also.
so yeah you can never have too many grounds.
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