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  1. #91

    Default excellent fix

    Great fix!!! Works great for some time but does require a little grease here and there to "Re"Fix. Any ways for you guys with maybe a little deeper pocket or are just to lazy to go out and grease a fitting when you change your oil. I was flipping through my LMC catalog today and noticed an "upgraded replacement" Is expensive as all hell but atleast its another option. Part number and price as follows:

    34-0874 $349.95
    Fits years 99-07 Chevy/GMC & 2007 classic

  2. #92
    Sr. Apprentice itsabowtime2's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    TN, via MI, OH and NY
    Posts
    61

    Default

    Amazing results. Just did it. Can't wait to drive on the highway tomorrow.
    2003 Chevy Tahoe Z71 4x4
    Other vehicles:
    2000 F250 Super Duty Crew Cab 4x4
    2005 Dodge Grand Caravan
    Toys:
    3055 Bayliner Ciera (2x SBC)
    Sea Doo GTX Limited
    Sea Doo XP (currently rebuilding the engine)

    Life is short. Boats and trucks are cool.

  3. #93
    Jr. Apprentice
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Marlton NJ
    Posts
    16

    Default

    here is the right way to fix it

    TECHNICAL
    Bulletin No.: 00-02-35-003N
    Date: March 26 2008
    Subject:
    Clunking Noise Under Hood and Can Be Felt in Steering Wheel and/or Steering Column (Replace Upper Intermediate Steering Shaft [I-Shaft] Assembly)
    Models:
    2002-2006 Cadillac Escalade Models
    1999-2007 Chevrolet Silverado Models (Classic)
    2000-2006 Chevrolet Suburban, Tahoe Models
    2002-2006 Chevrolet Avalanche
    1999-2007 GMC Sierra Models (Classic)
    2000-2006 GMC Yukon, Yukon XL Models
    2003-2006 HUMMER H2
    Attention: This Service Bulletin DOES NOT include Mid-Size Utilities such as Buick Rainier, Chevrolet TrailBlazer Models, GMC Envoy Models or Oldsmobile Bravada. Refer to Service Bulletin 02-02-35-006A or newer for Mid-Size Utilities.
    Supercede:
    This bulletin is being revised to add diagnostic information (refer to Diagnostic Tips) to check the lower steering column bearing as a potential source of the noise. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 00-02-35-003M (Section 02-Steering).
    Condition
    Some customers may comment on a clunk-type noise coming from under the hood that also can be felt in the steering wheel. These conditions may be more noticeable when turning at low speeds on rough road surfaces.
    Diagnostic Tips
    Use the information below to help diagnose the source of the noise.
    ^The lower steering column bearing may create the same noise as the intermediate shaft. Before replacing the I-shaft, verify the noise isn't being caused by movement from the lower steering column bearing. Check the bearing for movement by pushing up and down on the I-shaft where it attaches to the steering column.
    ^Frame Snap and/or Popping Type Noise - A frame snap or popping type noise can be duplicated on rough or smooth road surfaces with steering wheel input to the left or the right. This type of noise can be HEARD and is typically louder with the windows rolled down. For additional information refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 03-08-61-002F or newer - Snap/Popping Type Noise Coming from Front of Vehicle (Remove Front Crossmember Change Fastener Orientation).
    ^Intermediate Shaft Clunk - Intermediate shaft clunk is heard and FELT in the steering wheel and/or steering column area typically while driving on rough road surfaces with steering wheel input.
    Correction




    Important: ^I-shaft P/N 19153614 has been designed to replace previous designed dampened and non-dampened I-shafts. The physical difference in the yoke size will accommodate all vehicles listed in this bulletin.
    ^Due to the design of the new I-shaft, it is not possible to lubricate/grease the I-shaft.
    Replace the steering column upper intermediate shaft with an improved design shaft that will eliminate the clunk noise using the procedure listed below.
    1.Set the front wheels in the straight ahead position.
    Notice: On the 2002 and later model year vehicles the steering column LOCK was removed from the steering column. It is critical that the J 42640 - Steering column Anti-Rotation Pin is used when servicing steering columns on 2002 and later model year vehicles. Failure to use the J 42640 may result in damage to the SIR coil.
    2.Set the steering wheel in the LOCK position on 2001 and prior model year vehicles.




    3.For 2002 and later vehicles install the J 42640 in the steering column lower access hole.




    4.From under the hood remove the lower bolt that connects the upper intermediate shaft to the steering gear coupling shaft.
    5.Slide the shaft towards the dash in order to disengage the shaft from the steering gear coupling shaft.
    6.For vehicles equipped with adjustable foot pedals perform the following steps:
    1.Reposition the carpet away from the accelerator pedal position (APP) sensor.
    2.Remove the two nuts retaining the accelerator pedal to the bulkhead.
    3.Reposition the accelerator pedal out of the way so the intermediate shaft can be removed.




    7.From inside the vehicle remove the upper bolt from the upper intermediate steering shaft (1) to the steering column connection.
    8.Remove the upper intermediate steering shaft assembly.
    1.From inside the vehicle slide the shaft down and off the steering column.
    2.From inside the vehicle slide the upper intermediate shaft through the dash boot seal and remove the shaft from the vehicle.
    9.Replace the upper intermediate shaft.
    10.Install the upper intermediate steering shaft through the dash boot seal and slide the lower end into the steering gear coupling shaft.
    11.Raise the upper end of the intermediate steering shaft and install into the steering column shaft.
    12.Install the upper bolt and nut.
    Tighten
    Tighten the bolt to 47 N.m (35 lb ft).
    13.Install the lower bolt and nut.
    Tighten
    Tighten the bolt to 50 N.m (37 lb ft).
    14.For vehicles equipped with adjustable foot pedals perform the following steps:
    1.Reposition the accelerator pedals into position on the bulkhead.
    2.Install the two retaining nuts.
    Tighten
    Tighten the nuts to 20 N.m (15 lb ft).
    3.Reposition the carpet into place.


    Disclaimer

  4. #94

    Default

    I have had my 2003 Silverado repaired by the dealer three times for this steering problem and it has come back again.

    Yesterday I tried your solution only I used a 1/4 (28) tap. Everything went well and the clunk is significantly deminished.

  5. #95

    Default

    Don't forget as mentioned in the beginning, after putting a few miles on if the clunk feels like it is still there slightly, it may be nessesary to top off the grease with a few more punps of the gun. After that it should be gone rather than diminished.
    Skinner

    ---------- Post added at 08:24 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:13 AM ----------

    Its great to see how many have benifitted from this fix. There are a few sceptics but there always is.
    this repair has been tested before posted and is very effective, and inexpencive.
    My truck now has about 130,000 and when posted for the repair i believe i had around 85,000. Had very little maintenance on this repair. Had to top off the grease once and by spring i think i will have to one more time for the gravel road spring fishing season but who cares, takes like 5min lol.
    Tried tested and true, like a rock, Chevrolet.

    Skinner
    Last edited by skinner; 02-28-2011 at 07:28 AM.
    2004 Chevy Silverado Z71, 5.3L auto
    Beginning work in progress

  6. #96

    Default

    I replaced my I-shaft tonight per the instructions in the bulletin posted above. It was pretty simple. Got a new I shaft from amazon brand new for $38 free shipping. Fit of the new shaft was snug into the column on both ends but a few taps with a hammer did the trick. Took a spin around the neighborhood and no clunk!!

  7. #97

    Default

    geeeez, this is so sad you know? We spend good money for these trucks.. only to be dealt challenges that we shouldn't have to deal with in the first place because Chevrolet's engineers should have known better to design the shaft like that in the first place, just my opinion though.


    I've got a 2005 Chevrolet 2wd crew-cab with the 5.3 (327) V8 in it. I've got 98k original miles.. never wrecked, except for some idiot that backed into me and then ran like a little punk, but I had a witness and found out who did it and Karma is a b****. ;) But yeah, I've had absolutely zero problems out of this truck so far.. except the steering clunk noises.. and I hope Chevrolet comes up with a perm. fix because I plan on trading mine in on a newer one here pretty soon. I'm thinking about going for a 2009 or 2010 2wd crew-cab LS.. anyone know if they fixed it in the 2009 and up models?

    Anyhow, I too have the clunking noise in the steering wheel. Like I was mentioning before, I think its pathetic that we should have to come up with the solutions to fix something that should have never been a problem to begin with.. but, at the same time.. its a learning experience I suppose.. but still, it shouldn't be necessary when your paying 40k for a truck.

  8. #98

    Default

    OK, Here is how I fixed a number of these shafts while I was a Service Manager at a Chevy Dealer..I will tell you up front that GM "DID NOT" approve of this, but I never had a comeback on the ones I fixed and the customers were fully aware of what I did. The "reason" you have a rattle is that you have 2 pieces of metal that have to slide inside each other..HOWEVER, they slide only a very slight amount. ALso, this shaft collapses in case of a font end impact.
    Now for the fix, I removed the shaft. Then pulled it apart. I cleaned up the excess grease, but not all of it. I used black silicon sealer and put a fair amount down into the female tube, the coat the male side of the tube. Slide the 2 pieces together and install in the truck before the dry. Once it drys, you now have a insulator between the 2 pieces of metal. The reason I did not worry about removing all the grease was to allow the shaft to move in case of a accident. I figure the silicone sealer would shear any way, but just wanted to be cautious. ALL GM had to do was coat the part of shaft the goes into the other part with some sort of coating, so that you would not have a metal to metal surface.. ANY grease is going to eventually be rubbed of..Mine has over 300,000 miles on it and still quite after I "fixed it".


  9. #99

    Question Crap, now I don't know which 'fix' to try!!! argghh.

    Quote Originally Posted by My-SS View Post
    OK, Here is how I fixed a number of these shafts while I was a Service Manager at a Chevy Dealer..I will tell you up front that GM "DID NOT" approve of this, but I never had a comeback on the ones I fixed and the customers were fully aware of what I did. The "reason" you have a rattle is that you have 2 pieces of metal that have to slide inside each other..HOWEVER, they slide only a very slight amount. ALso, this shaft collapses in case of a font end impact.
    Now for the fix, I removed the shaft. Then pulled it apart. I cleaned up the excess grease, but not all of it. I used black silicon sealer and put a fair amount down into the female tube, the coat the male side of the tube. Slide the 2 pieces together and install in the truck before the dry. Once it drys, you now have a insulator between the 2 pieces of metal. The reason I did not worry about removing all the grease was to allow the shaft to move in case of a accident. I figure the silicone sealer would shear any way, but just wanted to be cautious. ALL GM had to do was coat the part of shaft the goes into the other part with some sort of coating, so that you would not have a metal to metal surface.. ANY grease is going to eventually be rubbed of..Mine has over 300,000 miles on it and still quite after I "fixed it".


    Great! Now you got me wondering if yours really works. It sounds so simplistic.. well, much more simplistic than the 'grease fitting' method.

    Your 100% positive that this fix works?? What kind of black silicone sealer did you use?

    I also have the same problem currently. Plus, I just installed a new set of 22" wheels/tires.. so I really want a sure method or 'fix' that will work for sure, without any doubts.

    I've got a 2005 Silverado crew-cab LS 2x2 with the 5.3 V8.

    anyhow.. yeah I can't figure out which one of these will FOR SURE work. I mean, I believe the 'grease fitting' trick will work now that I've seen the multiple replies of users that have tried it and it worked for them.. soooo, yeah I dunno now.

    Your fix, sounds simple.. simple enough for someone of mechanical skill level could possibly do. Which, kinda scares me.. the grease fitting fix, I would probably have a local shop do it for me..

    uggghh. I can't decide. :|

    shat.

  10. #100

    Default

    I had the dealer replace mine today free of charge. My service guy told me that they were allowed to do one per truck per year. I wish they could fix this problem permanently so you didnt have to go every year and they keep your truck for half the day.
    Mike :fighting0037:

    2007 GMC Sierra Z-71
    2009 Chevrolet Malibu


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