Any ideas on how to keep my doors from rattling? I recently threw on a cheapy Maaco paint job and asked them to look at it. Of course they were busy overspraying onto my windows, my two tone, and getting paint globs onto my new leather interior so they didn't have time to look at the doors
Thanks in advance
rootin, tootin, & shootin
texas gun talk
could be a number of possible things, could be something thats came loose inside the door, could be a door seal thats worked loose, could be the door latch not working properly.....does the door drag when you open and close it? or is it just rattling? have you recently had the door panels off and messed with any of the internal pieces inside the door? does your weatherstripping apper to be in good condition? is the striker bolt in good adjustment?
Scott-Mississippi
2002 Silverado
*Stock 5.3 engine
*DJM 5/7 lowering kit
*20in. Boss 330 wheels on 255/35's
*3in. BBK headers into dual 1chamber Flows
*Airaid Coldair Intake and Hypertech programmer
*Shaved doors, tailgate, taillights, 3rd brake, and stake pockets
*Smooth roll pan with tag and LED brake lights frenched into tailgate
4 SALE - $6000 Firm

What year is yours, if you have the body styles from 92-99 they were known to rattle alot, the only way to stop it is get new hinges put in the doors and from what I have read they arent easy to do on your own, google door hinges and your year of truck and there are quit a few articles about it and different companies that offer hinges that are an upgrade from the OEM hinges
99 K1500 Suburban LT "THE BEAST"
5.7 K&N & True Dual Exhaust
Hypertech III
05 17" Silverado rims
99 LS 1500 5.3 "THE MULE"
Reg Cab Long Box
285/75/16E Dunlop Rover M/T
___________________________
Jason
rootin, tootin, & shootin
texas gun talk
Scott-Mississippi
2002 Silverado
*Stock 5.3 engine
*DJM 5/7 lowering kit
*20in. Boss 330 wheels on 255/35's
*3in. BBK headers into dual 1chamber Flows
*Airaid Coldair Intake and Hypertech programmer
*Shaved doors, tailgate, taillights, 3rd brake, and stake pockets
*Smooth roll pan with tag and LED brake lights frenched into tailgate
4 SALE - $6000 Firm


Go to your door and give it a few tests, you should be able to narrow down the rattle. With the doors closed, push on the back ends of them. If they move in at all with not much hesitation then it's a matter of worn down weatherstripping and/or the striker assembly. If it doesn't move hardly at all by pushing on it then open the door and do the same kind of check with the front of the door. It may be a little heavy but you should be able to check to see if it moves up/down/in/out. If it does then you might be in need of hinge/pins as stated.
Also check on the perimeter of the door jamb and look for worn down spots of paint. Metal on metal contact will (if you are lucky) wear down spots on the doors and jambs and you'll be able to pinpoint it. At the very least you could put on a little strip of felt to help take some of the knock out of them!
Good luck, and let us know how it turns out for you.

A body shop is gonna have to most likely do new hinges as they will have the door stands to aid in keeping everything level, check this company out
http://www.totalauto.com/presentation/index.html
99 K1500 Suburban LT "THE BEAST"
5.7 K&N & True Dual Exhaust
Hypertech III
05 17" Silverado rims
99 LS 1500 5.3 "THE MULE"
Reg Cab Long Box
285/75/16E Dunlop Rover M/T
___________________________
Jason
Thanks guys, I'll check it out in the morning and post what I found.
rootin, tootin, & shootin
texas gun talk
Might check your weatherstripping too. If your weatherstripping is wore out and torn up your door won't shut as tight as it should.
1990 Chevy Suburban V1500 4x4 "Church Bus"
5.7L TBI
3" lift - 35" tires
WARN Manual Locking Hubs
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