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05-16-2009, 10:26 PM #11
I used a dremel to make the cross hatch marks in the halo's, this also helps refract the light even more. I did all four like this with good results, it is just really time consuming!
I soldered up 8 LED setups total, each having 18AWG wire 4007 diodes and 390 ohms resistors. I tryed to desolder the old connections from the halo board, but they were too brittle and they broke in the process. So I ended up with twice as many wires out the back, but I still managed to make it work the same. Here they are installed back in the chrome housing, it took some finangling but it worked out.
I also took and put another coat of reflective tape where the halo's are seated, I know it's sloppy but you can't see it once the halo's are on there anyways.
This is after I put the headlight back together just to make sure everything fit okay, notice all of the halo wires now versus the old way. I wasn't happy about that, but there was no way around it considering.
2004 Chevy Colorado
LS1 5.7 swap/TBSS rear axle swap
05-16-2009, 10:36 PM #12
I removed the old factory headlight connectors, and I put then new one's in there place. This also gave me about 6 more inches to pull the headlights out, the factory wiring left little room to move before but now it is nice to have some slack. And yes I used heat shrink too, I figured I would forget but I remembered this time!
Here I have them in the truck for the first time and yes those are rubber bands holding them together for the first rough fitment check.
These are my Matrix marker lights, they had both taken on lots of water and had developed what I thought was black mold.
Here is a close up of the marker lights, all that black gunk I thought was mold. It turns out that is the cheap chrome flaking off and turning black, they are unrepairable and I didn't want to paint them because you basically ruin the light output that way. I have to wait for more money to buy a different set, so for now I have these nasty looking things! %&*@(@#&
05-16-2009, 10:45 PM #13
Resealing these headlights was the most aggravating part of this process, there are no flat spots on them at all so putting a clamp on a rounded plastic piece is a lot of fun. Once I got them clamped I left them like that for 3 days to make sure they were sealed, I think I did a good job because the first day I had them in for a test drive it poured down the rain. No leaks, no fogging any more and they are just as nice as can be now.
This is the low beams on only, along with the marker lights. The reflective tape from the halo's actually lights them up, the halo's are NOT on in this picture.
These are the marker lights on, along with the halo's. I think the marker lights take away from the halo's, which Is why I wired them seperately to have them on by themselves.
This is how I have the halo's wired up, they will be all by themselves but for now I still have them unhooked because I am working on a switch panel.
That's all I am posting today, I will post some more tomorrow night of my other project which I am sure you will find interesting. Any questions just PM me, or you can leave a post on here I don't mind.
05-17-2009, 04:53 PM #14
In the process of taking the headlight's on and off, I managed to lose the headlight retainer pin so I improvised. I am now using a set of 7/32" allen wrenches, they are basically the same style that was in there from the factory.
I decided to put the switches for the halo's up in the overhead console, this is what I started off with.
The overhead console is held in place by one philips head screw, and two small clips and the front of the unit. Be careful when pulling it down because the wires are short and you could rip them out, the wire on the left is for the Onstar and the wire on the right is for the map lights.
Next I took the driver's side sun visor off, and it was held on place by 4 T20 torx bit screws. I took this out to be able to fish the wires up underneath the headliner.
05-17-2009, 05:05 PM #15
Next I took the driver's side A-pillar off carefully, the Bose tweeter wire is very short and can be ripped out easily. The white plug at the bottom of the pillar is for the tweeter, and that black harness running down is god knows what but I ran mine right next to it.
This is an inverted picture of where the A-pillar meets the headliner, I was extremely careful to fish the wires through so that I did not break that glue apart. Once you do that you will end up with all kinds of problems, shifting, sagging, and a bunch of mis-aligned holes.
Letting it all hang out! All the red and black wires are for my halo's, plus I ran a couple extra sets for down the road for whatever else I might get. I had to pull the front of the dash also, because I had done some adjustments to my roll bar lighting which I ran through the dash.
I ran the wiring under the front of the headliner, down the driver's side A-pillar. Down behind the backside of the dash, through the fuse panel compartment.
05-17-2009, 05:18 PM #16
Then I ran the wiring down through the E-brake cover, followed it down through the driver's side kick plate. Then I cut over and ran it out through the drain hole in the floor, I am not a huge fan of cutting through the firewall so this is the next best thing. I circled my wires for you to see, this is the only spot where they are visible.
The wires highlighted in yellow are from my roll bar, they snapped nicely on top of the frame rail where the factory clips were already at. There were a few extra so I took advantage, the red circled harness is for my halo's. I ran them out of the cab and up behind the front fenderwell guard, there is plenty of room plus it keeps the wiring out of the weather.
I ran the halo wiring behind the brake booster, all along the back of the engine compartment and then down along the driver's side front fender lip. I held it in place of zip ties to keep it out of the way, right now I have it curled up in the front fender until I get the switch panel done.
Just for fun I posted this picture of the roll bar wiring under the front sill plate, it's the 3/8" wireloom which just barely fits when the sill plate is snapped back on.
05-17-2009, 05:32 PM #17
Once I got done running all the wires, I took the console in the garage for more work. I cut a 1" hole in the back of the overhead console to feed the wire's through, I also used a grommet to cover any sharp edges there might have been.
I pulled the wires through the back of the overhead console, and then I plugged the map lights and on-star back in before putting the philips head screw back in and snapping it back in place.
I bought a sheet of Lexan for my switch panel that I am going to paint the back of it gloss black and then put it in the console, but here are a picture of the switches I bought from Summit Racing for the panel. They are carbon fiber so they match my interior perfectly, that's as far as I got on that part of the project.
This is the next project I embarked on, these are my Pro Comp 6" lights I had bought years ago for $29 at Summit Racing. They were originally just to plug the holes on my brushguard until I got my PIAA lights, and then they got tossed to the side in the junk pile. Well I decided to put these behind my grille instead, and then I also decided to make halo's for them. This is a picture of the halo already on the light, I made them in the oven and then drilled the ends of the halo to insert the LED's into. In the process I drilled a hole in my finger which did tendon damage, BUT to me it was worth it for this one of a kind mod!
05-17-2009, 05:40 PM #18
Because of the larger halo size, I ended up putting four 5mm white LED's in each halo. I ran the wiring under the bracket for mounting, and I eventually pt it all into one shrink tube for a cleaner look. Keep in mind these are behind the grille, so you won't even see the wiring.
I also experimented with pink LED's for fun, this is the off-road halo without reflective tape. Notice all of the pink light in the center of the light lots of wasted light in this setup.
This is a white halo after I used the reflective tape on the off-road light, it makes the center completely black while the halo lights up. This is also with only 2 LED's o you can see the dead spot at the bottom, with my new 4 LED setup there is no dead spot and it's even brighter.
This is a picture of the white halo behind my grille, this is also with only 2 LED's in the halo.
05-17-2009, 05:46 PM #19
Here's the pink halo behind the grille, but I did go with the white for permanent color I was just having a little fun with these. I am also waiting on a PIAA harness for these driving lights, so they will also be functional.
Here are both of them on behind the grille, I love this look after all it is all about uniqueness right?
After I finished those two huge projects, I was messing around with some other different color LED's. Here is the pink of course, I think it is a site favorite!
I forgot to mention these are all on the smaller halo's for the headlights. This is ultraviolet, or like a black light.
05-17-2009, 05:53 PM #20
This is the green LED's, they are not that bright but if it wasn't for the cuts you wouldn't see them at all.
This is supposed to be yellow LED's, but they look more like an orange color to me.
This is the blue LED's, these are the one's I wanted in the headlights but they are illegal but they are my favorite.
Here is the link I used to help me make my homemade halos, it is a very cool thing to do and you should try it for fun sometime!
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