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  1. #11


    Good point about other issues popping up. The last axle seal I replaced on my old 85 required replacing the axle because it was seal cut. They make sleeves to repair the seal cut if you don't want to buy a new axle. The sleeves work OK in most cases but sometimes they are short lived before they leak again.
    The G-80 clips can fall out on some trucks or can be a PITA to get out in others. Remember to whack the axle shaft with a Big hammer to move the axle all the way inboard. Have fun!

    2004 SILVERADO 2500HD LS
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  2. #12


    I will not be replacing the bearing, just the seal. How long for just the seal? I getting in a rock and I hard place. I have to get this job done. I have my friend helping now. Also I do not have the G80 Code. I just have a regular differential. Its not locking. Plus for now I am just doing the seal on the right hand side. The left side isnt leaking so I'm not going to touch it.

    Could I do it in my driveway if I had a floor jack? It would give me way more time before my trip. I have a full tool set at home and an oil catch and everything. What do I need to drive the seal in?

    Last edited by barryT; 05-30-2009 at 06:21 PM.

  3. #13


    There's very little difference in time whether you replace the bearing or not (assuming you have the right puller as I mentioned above). Of course, you wouldn't need the puller to do the seal only. I think I used a screwdriver (be careful not to damage the sealing surface in the axle tube) to remove the seal.

    You could maybe cut an hour off of my estimated time by doing only one side, but, where you don't appear to have done this sort of thing before, I'd still estimate high on the time.

    When I did mine, I did it in the driveway, with nothing more than jacks and stands. Having a lift would make it easier to get at things inside the diff (wouldn't have to do it laying on your back), but that's all the advantage it would give you.

    In your PM to me, you asked about brakes. You shouldn't have to touch the brakes, except to replace the shoes if they are contaminated with gear oil (probably are). If your manual doesn't explain how to change the brake shoes, get a new manual, or make sure you are looking in the right section (the section for brakes will likely be in a different place from the section for axleshafts). Even Haynes/Chiltons are good enough for changing brake shoes.
    '98 K1500 Suburban LS 5.7 L 4L60E NV246 ARB
    '92 Ford Explorer XLT 4x4 4.0 L A4LD BW13-54 Trac-loc rear
    "My toys were the greasy cogs and springs and pistons that lay around all over the place, and these, I can promise you, were far more fun to play with than most of the plastic rubbish children are given nowadays." Danny in Roald Dahl's Danny The Champion of the World

  4. #14


    Thanks for the help! I am fairly experianced doing automotive work. I am taking it to a friends house that has alot of equipment. Another friend is coming over thats is very skilled in automotive work. So between the three of us I'm sure we can do it in a good amount of time.

    Last edited by barryT; 05-31-2009 at 03:31 AM.

  5. #15


    Well its done. With the three of us it took just over an hour and that inlcudes the annoying job of pumping gear lube into the diff. I will have to go back there again though. the bearing was a little loose. So next time I have free time I am going to replace both bearings in the rear.


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