Results 11 to 20 of 29
06-07-2009, 01:50 PM #11
See if you can turn it by hand in 2WD mode. It should turn.Jim
2004 SILVERADO 2500HD LS
Pro Comp Leveling Kit
285-75-16 Cooper ST All Terrains
Pro Comp Programmer
Linux Bed Liner
1967 Landcruiser <350 Chevy>
1990 Geo Metro Convertible
2007 FJ Cruiser
06-07-2009, 02:05 PM #12
i would also say u- joints or bearings2000 silverado with a 5.3l v8, shorty headers, upgraded plugs, 10 mil wires, magnaflow high flow cats, flowmaster 80 series muffler(2 in 2 out) w/ 18 inch stainless silverline tips. i have a k&n CIA. its a 4x4 z71 offroad package. Ls model.
extended cab 160k miles, truxedo low profile bed cover, diablo sport predator tuner.
reman tranny @ 130k miles
06-07-2009, 09:54 PM #13
What about CV shafts? In 2wd the tire turns the shaft, but in 4wd the front center section turns the shaft. I suppose it's possible that changing the torque loading could make the noise come and go.
And of course, it could be the front center section too.
Oh boy......When you hear hoofbeats, look for horses not zebras.
06-07-2009, 10:48 PM #14
- Join Date
- Jun 2009
Well how about this. when the Ujoints start to go bad, besides noise, what other symptoms go along with it. same with wheel bearings, transfer case, front diff, CV shafts. the truck drives perfect. no vibrations. doesnt pull to either side. no clunking noises, or grinding noises. just a lil squeak. and annoying one at that. i should just take it to a mechanic...but my experiances in the past lead me to want to know whats wrong BEFORE i take it in. maybe i can figure out a way to attach a sound file of the noise. let me see what i can do.
06-18-2009, 07:00 PM #15
- Join Date
- Dec 2008
Could be the driveshaft center support bearing?? Just one other place to look.
06-23-2009, 09:54 PM #16
Very curious as I recently bought a 99 GMC Sierra Classic 1500 4x4 Ext Cab and have the same weird chirping squeeling sound. Speed varies anywhere from 20-50mph, but only does it under power, not coasting in neutral. Any slight increase or decrease in speed and it stops. No other resistance to rolling, pulling side to side or anything.
Also noticed it really seems to start singing right around 1600-1800 rpm so I was thinking it may be a bad belt or pulley. Just replaced both the idler pulley, tensioner and pulley and belt tonight and no luck - still chirps and squeals.
The truck only has 50k miles on it and almost totally stock so I was doubting it would be wheel bearings. But maybe? These trucks look like they have a sealed bearing assembly? Not like the old trucks where you can pull them apart and repack them. I could be wrong - that is just by glancing at a parts catalog.
My u-joints also don't have any grease fittings but all feel tight. A little rusty maybe.
I haven't tried 4-hi to see if I still get the chirp and squeal but that will be my next test.
Man it is an annoying squeal though!
06-23-2009, 11:49 PM #17
Just tried 4-hi and same problem immediately. Did a little 4-low and 4-high back and forth in a parking lot and then the squeal seemed to die down and stop for about 5-10 min of normal driving.
Weird; that leads me to believe the front diff or CV joints are getting dry? Or could just have been a fluke. I guess it still could be u-joints on the rear driveline. That will be by next target...
I just hate to start replacing things left and right until it's finally solved but I don't like paying shop mechanics either!
06-23-2009, 11:53 PM #18
If you really want to isolate the rear driveshaft, take it out! Drive around in 4Hi for a little while.When you hear hoofbeats, look for horses not zebras.
06-23-2009, 11:55 PM #19
Won't I blow tranny fluid all over the place when the rear driveline is out out - there wouldn't be a seal?
06-24-2009, 12:14 AM #20
Yes, you would need to cap the transfer case. Duct tape might hold for a short test, or you could get a plumbing test cap at Home Depot/Lowes/hardware store. I think one for 2" PVC would be just about right.
Let us know if you try it.When you hear hoofbeats, look for horses not zebras.