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  1. #1

    Default ball joints [Expired Topic]

    Been looking into a slight shimmy in the front end of my '98 Suburban. A shop suggested that the ball joints may be a little loose. I've read through Chilton's write-up; just wondering if anyone has any tips learned through experience.

    1) Any tricks to verifying the ball joints, or does the "jack and wiggle" technique apply.
    2) Anything the manual may have missed that I should know if/when it comes time to replace? One concern in this category is releasing the tension in the torsion bar. The manual says to release the tension (using a special tool I'm not going to have lying around), but I've seen it suggested that it isn't necessary when replacing just the lower ball joint. If it is necessary to release the tension in the torsion bar, where does one get such a device?
    '98 K1500 Suburban LS 5.7 L 4L60E NV246 ARB
    '92 Ford Explorer XLT 4x4 4.0 L A4LD BW13-54 Trac-loc rear
    "My toys were the greasy cogs and springs and pistons that lay around all over the place, and these, I can promise you, were far more fun to play with than most of the plastic rubbish children are given nowadays." Danny in Roald Dahl's Danny The Champion of the World

  2. #2

    Default

    Never had to jack with that. What do you mean by shimmy? Do you have play in the wheel or does it float a bit when going down the road?

    Steve
    10 Chevy Traverse LT AWD
    02 Chevy Trailblazer LS (110K+ miles - loaded except for 4WD - WRECKED!)
    99 Chevy Cavalier LS (105K+ miles - commuter car)
    78 Chevy Suburban Silverado (454, 3/4 ton)
    62 GMC 3/4 ton Pickup (350 police interceptor)

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