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Thread: Brakes

  1. #1

    Default Brakes

    I have a 99 2500 burban with the 454. It shakes when braking and I believe that the rotors are warped. I heard or read some were that it can be a contueing problum. To add to the issue I tow a trailer through out the states that can weight in the 9,000 lb range. I have read a little about drilled and/or slotted. Any real life info out there?

  2. #2

    Default

    There are many to chose from,I've been running SSBC Slotted Rotors with Hawk H.P. pads and Russell Stainless steel brakes Line.They have been a very solid upgrade over the stock setup.I also Tow a Boat during the summer.Hope this help's you little.

    MIKE


    99"SILVERADO
    5.3 l 3.73 l G80
    BLACK BEAR CUSTOM TUNE
    SNUGTOP l COLORMATCH l KATZKIN










  3. #3

    Default

    Are you looking for better braking performance?

    In my opinion, the 92-99 generation Burbs are suffering from a poor set of brakes from the beginning. My friend has had a couple of of these trucks, and has had recurring problems with the brakes. His wife was hard on the rig from what I can tell.

    But even so, I was pretty appalled by the braking performance. Basically in an emergency stop I feel like I would just run thru a brick wall.

    Drilled rotors are not much help. Slotted give some increased performance from venting gasses.

    Better pads, rotors and brake lines might help a bit, but if you tow you might want to look at some caliper upgrades. They are NOT cheap though. SSBrakes is one of the only alternatives I found.

    Stillen offers a AP racing 6 piston kit. This kit costs about 80% of the cost of the Burb I bought though ($3k).
    http://www.stillen.com/product.asp?i...make=chevrolet

    SSbrakes offers a nice quick change caliper upgrade which I've done, and you can also convert the rear drums to discs. It is a two piston unit versus the stock single piston. I think it made a significant change and I feel a bit more confident in my stopping ability.

    A pic of the caliper and rotor I installed, plus another pic compared to the stock caliper.




    I'm hoping to do the rear disc conversion, but it probably won't happen this year.
    Last edited by Kraziken; 06-22-2009 at 12:29 AM.

  4. #4
    Jr. Engineer
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
    Posts
    298

    Default

    I just wanted to drop a dime here...

    please keep in mind that rear drums are better for towing and stopping that discs are. They have a higher surface area for stopping and are bigger usually in overall size.

    your front brakes may do 60% of your breaking when you aren't hauling but as soon as you step on it past a certain point built into the proportioning valve the rear brakes start to get more pressure.

    Remember... if rigs are still running drums all the way around even though they have a higher maintenance cost (excluding the air brake costs) there has to be a reason.

    Also, if your truck is SHAKING when you are stopping it is probably a safe bet the rotors are warped, HOWEVER, new rotors (fairly cheap <75bucks each) and a new set of pads and a couple hours and you are back on the road if you do the work yourself.

    Do remember though to get brake lube for the slider bolts, and use pipe dope (copper coat) on the nuts to make sure everything is good... also inspect the pistons and the gaskets to make sure all is well.

    if you want more performance from factory, the steel lines help out about 150-200% for braking.

    but thats just my 2 cents.

    1993 K1500 Suburban 350TBI, 378,486KMS on frame, 49,000KMS on Drivetrain. Lots of mods, built for haulin trailers and haulin @$$ :)

    2000 K2500 Yukon XL 6.0L Vortec 252000KMS custom CAI, and exhaust...but not done yet.

    "If you are dumb enough to do something you don't know how to do, and can't do it safely then WHEN you get hurt its your own fault...BONEHEAD"

  5. #5

    Default

    Perhaps you are talking about drum or disc brakes on the trailer itself? Here's an article I found about the two for use on a trailer.
    http://www.championtrailers.com/Drum...BrakeArtcl.htm


    As for the rig itself, braking is braking. Converting the rear drums lowerd the stopping distance about 20 feet from what I recall. Drums will make it easier to hold on a hill, but the truck portion of the braking effort should still be improved converting to disc whether running a trailer or not.

    Searching a bit further, one of the Silverado's seems to have a Max trailer package, and included in that package was rear discs instead of rear drum brakes for the normal version.
    Last edited by Kraziken; 06-22-2009 at 01:41 AM.

  6. #6

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by 99'HEARTBEAT View Post
    There are many to chose from,I've been running SSBC Slotted Rotors with Hawk H.P. pads and Russell Stainless steel brakes Line.They have been a very solid upgrade over the stock setup.I also Tow a Boat during the summer.Hope this help's you little.
    Thanks for the reply it's always helpfull to get info on products from people that use the product.

  7. #7

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Kraziken View Post
    Are you looking for better braking performance?

    In my opinion, the 92-99 generation Burbs are suffering from a poor set of brakes from the beginning. My friend has had a couple of of these trucks, and has had recurring problems with the brakes. His wife was hard on the rig from what I can tell.

    But even so, I was pretty appalled by the braking performance. Basically in an emergency stop I feel like I would just run thru a brick wall.

    Drilled rotors are not much help. Slotted give some increased performance from venting gasses.

    Better pads, rotors and brake lines might help a bit, but if you tow you might want to look at some caliper upgrades. They are NOT cheap though. SSBrakes is one of the only alternatives I found.

    Stillen offers a AP racing 6 piston kit. This kit costs about 80% of the cost of the Burb I bought though ($3k).
    http://www.stillen.com/product.asp?i...make=chevrolet

    SSbrakes offers a nice quick change caliper upgrade which I've done, and you can also convert the rear drums to discs. It is a two piston unit versus the stock single piston. I think it made a significant change and I feel a bit more confident in my stopping ability.

    A pic of the caliper and rotor I installed, plus another pic compared to the stock caliper.





    I'm hoping to do the rear disc conversion, but it probably won't happen this year.
    Better braking is always wilcome. Money is always an issue. I started out by hearing stories about people changeing their rotors after only haveing them for 10 to 20 thousand miles because of warping. So I am looking for a rotor that is less likely to warp and better then stock braking will be a plus. I also have a pulling problum with and with out the traile. It pulls to the right.
    Last edited by billlp; 06-23-2009 at 01:50 AM.

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