Results 11 to 20 of 25
07-10-2009, 11:06 PM #11
AMY>>>WOW, this is the most detailed write-up I've seen yet. Sorry you had to do all that work but thanks for taking the time to post it. I know you're not done posting yet but had to say, GRAT JOB!The diference between stupidity and genius is that genius has limits.
2007 NBS Silverado
2.5" Levelling Kit
GM Bed Liner & Tonno
Dick Cepek Rims 18X9
Hankook RF10 Tires 275/65/18
More Mods Coming
07-10-2009, 11:17 PM #12
Here's the finished product, all new rotors and pads hopefully we get more than the 10,000 miles out of the last pair. Again this was a freak thing on my truck, I hope none of you ever have this happen to you because it was scary.
Now when we got over to the passenger side, everything went with no problem. The emergency brake adjuster was fine on this side, and the rotor slid right off without even having to use the puller or chain. When we got to taking the caliper off, the Torx head on this side was horrible, it was rotted almost all of the way through. It was a miracle we got both of them out, so I had to go to the auto parts store to buy some new one's. I found out that GM finally figured out about there bad design, so they went to a hex head design instead. So no matter where you go even the dealer, you will get a standard hex head design replacement bolt. Here they are side by side, the old one is on the left side.
Here is a top view of the old and new bolts, notice the excessive rust on the Torx head. The new bolts were $7.99 for a set of 2, so after we did this my dad realized that we were mis-matched. So we went back to the store and bought another set, and then we went and replaced the other side which we had to take apart and replace the bolts. But it was worth it to lose those ugly Torx heads, so If your doing a brake job in the future and you want to lose those Torx heads go and buy the new style and you'll be happier.
Just as a side note about the jaw puller and chain, you can also use a slide hammer and a brake seperator tool which they sell through MAC tools. We have one some where but we couldn't find it, the special tool hooks into the rotor grooves and you just slide the hammer back and it pulls it right off. It works 10 times better than a puller, so keep an eye out for one if you see one. Hope you enjoyed my little experience, I know I did! If I think of anything else I will add it down the road, right now it's 1 in the morning and I'm tired! Goodnight!2004 Chevy Colorado
LS1 5.7 swap/TBSS rear axle swap
07-11-2009, 07:35 AM #13
A few finishing details
Once got all of the new parts on and secured, we went up to the front of the truck and reconnected the negative battery cable. And then we added some DOT 3 brake fluid to the master cylinder, it was down about a 1/4". There was no need to bleed the brakes because we did not replace the calipers, and we had a nice firm brake pedal. After a brief inspection we took the truck for a ride, and everything operated how it should.
As soon as I get the money we are going to also do the front brakes, my dad didn't like the idea of having a job half way done seeing as how this is our main tow vehicle. Right now the front brakes are all of the original parts, which include the metallic pads. We put ceramic on the back, so we want to get everything all matched up. This is the newest vehicle I have now done brakes on now, so I am glad that I took pictures because it is a lot different than the brakes on my S-10.
And seeing as how the underside of this truck is really rusty, I will be doing the entire undercarriage in POR-15 high gloss. I am actually going to be at a local swap meet next week, and the vendor is going to be there to help me with what I need. I will be doing a thread on that process too, but I want to get that done before winter time.
Stay tuned until my next write-up, probably another lighting thread OR front brakes on this truck.
Last edited by TRPLXL2; 07-11-2009 at 08:03 AM.
07-11-2009, 08:29 AM #14
Holy Schnieke!! What a nightmare, I guess I've been lucky with all the brake jobs I've done in the past! Great write up as usual Amy, I'm glad my truck has drums in the rear though.Adam
07-11-2009, 08:55 AM #15
Great thread, some truly useful information. Nice job getting it done, I'm glad you were able to get the rotors off.
I just did the rear brakes on my 97. Big drums on the 14 bolt SF. I probably had 4-5 hours getting the drums off. No drum puller around. Heat, and lots of it, was the ultimate solution for me. As for linings, I get the best feeling brakes with good rotors and el cheapo pads. And one other thing, when I put mine back together I was very liberal with the application of Never Seize. All the mounting bolts, and where the drum sits on the axle flange. I also drilled holes and tapped them so I can jack the drum off next time if I need to.When you hear hoofbeats, look for horses not zebras.
07-11-2009, 07:23 PM #16
Adam I am actually glad that I don't have drum brakes on this truck,I have them on my S-10 and I hate wrestling with those tiny little springs! I would take disc over drum anyday, but the disc are a lot more expensive I think.
2COR517- I could not imagine doing a brake job without that puller, we had a real mess last time on my S-10 with getting the rear drum brakes off. They were rusted on completely, so I am glad you got yours to come off with some heat. We have probably 10 different sizes of pullers, and none of them we bought brand new. My dad found ALL of them at local flea markets, the pair you saw in the pictures were only $12 believe it or not. Keep an eye out you can find them pretty cheap used, trust me you will wonder why you haven't bought a set earlier in life.
I also forgot to mention that I did use a liberal amount of never seaze on the lug nuts before I put them back on, didn't do the hub but that's why we got them pullers. All in all a very fun day indeed, I am 90% sure my next thread will be POR-15.
07-12-2009, 06:36 PM #17
wow, thats quite a job, im glad i live in the desert, my truck is 3 years old, and sits out side all the time, and has no rust. those wheel retainer clips are pretty much useless, they use them at the factory to keep the brakes from falling off, the tire shop in my area took those off when i got new tires, so i dont even have them, great job on the how to
09-29-2009, 07:26 PM #18
that is a great write up but the sad part is that's nothing! I've lived in MI my whole life and you'd be floored to see what braked with 50,000+ miles look like after a few salty winters! and I CAN'T believe that actaully had brake problems after only 10000 miles.
2009 Silverado LT1: All Star Edition
5.3 Liter V8 4x4
Locking Rear Differential
3.73 Rear Axle
Factory Remote Start
Rear Wheel House Liners
Molded Mud Flaps
Stainless Nurf Bars
Driver Information Center
20% Tinted Windows
Low Profile Diamond Plate Tool Box
GM Bed Liner
Silver Birch Metallic Mirror Covers
Silver Birch Metallic Vent Visors
Flowmaster Super 40 (knock off)
Bed Rail Protectors
Extang Tonneau Cover
09-29-2009, 07:38 PM #19
Yeah the 10,000 mile thing is ridiculous, and the thing with the dealer not covering it because of premature failure really got my dad mad. My mom also had a 2001 S-10 Blazer 4x4 that did the same thing, I think it had 16,000 miles when hers went out and that brake job was super expensive on that truck. Well I know for a fact that GM doesn't make them like they used to, and that is really sad for a vehicle like that.
09-29-2009, 07:42 PM #20
- Join Date
- Sep 2009
Good job. Clean looking truck by the way.
By TRPLXL2 in forum How-to GuidesReplies: 20Last: 11-09-2009, 11:53 PM
By yogibear in forum Lifted & Offroad SuspensionReplies: 3Last: 08-27-2009, 06:57 AM
By yogibear in forum Performance & FuelReplies: 0Last: 08-25-2009, 02:10 AM
By firstname.lastname@example.org in forum Photo & Video GalleryReplies: 11Last: 07-08-2009, 09:08 PM
By sho in forum Lifted & Offroad SuspensionReplies: 0Last: 12-08-2008, 11:54 PM
Tags for this Thread