Results 1 to 5 of 5
Thread: Mirror shakes
07-11-2009, 09:59 PM #1
I did a quick search but couldn't come up with anything for the NBS. My pass. side mirror(just the mirror glass itself) shakes.
I saw the cover on the back of the mirror but didn't wanna break any tabs or anything off my removing it and trying to tighen it from behind. Is there an easy way to do this? Preferably without breaking anything
07-12-2009, 08:29 AM #2
From my experiance NO. Mine shake, my brothers 01 shakes and in time the NNBS 07 my dad has will shake. Mirrors werent really designed to take apart and just replace a piece of it, its usually all or none.99 K1500 Suburban LT "THE BEAST"
Hypertech III, K&N, true dual
07-12-2009, 09:20 AM #3
Damn i was hoping there was something behind that panel that i could just tighten up. Well guess this may be an excuse to get chrome mirrors i guess.
11-22-2010, 12:33 PM #4
11-22-2010, 01:21 PM #5
- Join Date
- Jul 2010
- Denver, CO
- Blog Entries
Here is some information I saved a while back. I did not try so do not know first hand if it works or not, but it is cheap and probably only takes a few minutes to do. If you try, let us know the results. The info was from a 2006 but I think it could apply to yours.
the strips of foam weather stripping I put on the back of the glass itself and on the inside of the mirror where the two would meet, DID MAKE A DIFFERENCE. It reduced the amount of virbation a good bit and made the mirrors a good deal more useable in terms of actually being able to see what was behind me in a "calm" manner as opposed to the vehicle behind me looking like its on the dance floor of a disco room.
I would take pictures of where I put the foam but I think that would be pretty dang hard since I didn't take the glass itself out at all.
So what I did do is this:
Rolled the window down so I could access the mirror movement switch.
Moved the mirror to its extreme's (inward, outward, outward and down, outward and up, etc...)
Looked around to see what the closest points of contact between the glass and inside of the mirror itself would be.
Took pieces of this roll of weather stripping and cut them into pieces of about an inch or so long.
Stuck probably 3 pieces together, then stuck those 3 pieces on the plastic of the inside of the mirror.
Cut and stuck together another 3 pieces and placed them on the back side of the glass itself in a position that when the mirror was moved back to the position it will be in when in use to make sure the weather stripping is touching the stripping on the inside of the mirror. You want this point of contact to be squeezing together tightly so that the vibration is further reduced... (too loose does nothing and too tight....well...I guess too tight would mean the mirror wouldn't move around much at all if needed adjusting.
I did this on the right, left, top and bottom so that I covered all sides.
I noticed there was a plastic stop, or bump out so to speak, on the inside of the mirror (the black plastic).....that are the outer extremes of the mirror adjustment. In other words, what touches the glass itself to stop the mirror from being able to adjust any further one way or another. This is the places where I put the weather stripping at since it seemed that this is where the mirror already touched to stop the adjustment.
Now that I used the weather stripping, I think it was a good material to use because with the stripping tightly pressed against each other, I think the softness or cushion affect of it helps to absorb some of that vibration.
Not sure if this makes any sense or not, but thats pretty much how it went. I could probably squeeze one more little strip onto each spot and make the vibration reduce even more, but with 3 pieces stuck together on both the glass and plastic (6 pieces total) it got kind of tight in there and hard to really work without taking the mirror (glass) off. If you could find a way to take the glass off without breaking it and put the stripping on then re-install the glass, it would probably be A LOT easier and maybe more effective.
The only concern I have now is the stripping holding up, or in other words, not losing its stickiness and falling off. I'm hoping that the pressure of all the pieces touching anyway will deter them from falling off.
Mike (Denver, CO) - 2008 Sierra 1500 Z71 SLE 5.3L 4WD
SUSPENSION: Rancho 4" Suspension Lift; Rancho RS9000XL Shocks; Rancho Skid Plates; Rancho MyRide Wireless Shock Controller;
TIRES: BFG All Terrain KO 315/70/17
DRIVE TRAIN: 4.56 Gears; Detroit TrueTrac Differential; True Cool 40k Transmission Cooler
PERFORMANCE: DiableSport Predator Tuner; Custom Tuned by Diablew; Magnaflow Exhaust; AFE Cold Air Intake
ELECTRONICS: Kenwood DNX6180 Touchscreen; Subthump box w/10" Kicker; Driver Information Center (DIC); Rear View Camera
ACCESSORIES: Westin Brush/Grill Gaurd; Westin Nerf Bars; Truxedo Tonneau; 20% Tint; Tow Mirrors w/Heat & Signals
By auzivision in forum General Chevy & GM Tech QuestionsReplies: 13Last Post: 09-09-2010, 01:57 PM
By 99monguse in forum General Chevy & GM Tech QuestionsReplies: 6Last Post: 06-10-2009, 08:44 AM
By Xquisitruckus in forum Lifted & Offroad SuspensionReplies: 10Last Post: 06-10-2009, 06:24 AM
By PwrBoatFan in forum Chevy Suburban Forum (GMC Yukon XL)Replies: 4Last Post: 04-14-2009, 08:02 PM
By BuckeyeBandit in forum Chevy Suburban Forum (GMC Yukon XL)Replies: 3Last Post: 09-27-2008, 06:32 PM
Tags for this Thread