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Thread: De-Badging

  1. #1
    Sr. Apprentice Toolman's Avatar
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    Cool De-Badging

    I'm sure this topic has been beat to death about as much as what's the best oil product or programmer, but hey...I'm a new guy so don't be to harsh eh'

    I would like to finally remove all badges from the truck and was very successfull with the LS badge on the cab. Windex and waxing the area after removal seemed the shiznit.

    However, moving on to removing the first 1500 badge from the front fender was a bich and now I'm left with the thick adhesive backing to try and remove without damaging the paint. Goo-Off doesn't seem to be much help either. I was going to try either a heat shrink gun or hair dryer and decided to come to the good folks here who have successfully accomplished this task in a timely matter.

    I'm at your mercy forum friends.
    "You can't fix stupid"

  2. #2

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    I used the 3-M Eraser wheel,that you can pickup at most auto parts stores.It works Great at taking the last of the left over Adhesive off.!!!!..
    Last edited by 99'HEARTBEAT; 07-19-2009 at 08:10 PM.

    MIKE


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  3. #3
    Sr. Apprentice VectraGT's Avatar
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    Try the 3-M eraser, if that doesn't work I just use pain thinner. Just make sure to give that area a polish and wax afterward.
    JR
    2009 Silverado Z71, 5.3
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  4. #4

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    Quote Originally Posted by 99'HEARTBEAT View Post
    I used the 3-M Eraser wheel,that you can pickup at most auto parts stores.It works Great at taking the last of the left over Adhesive off.!!!!..
    Worked at an auto body shop. And all we did was take a puddy knife and wedge the badge off. Then we'd take the eraser wheel and giver. It takes it off like no ones business, just make sure not to put too much pressure on it in a single area, and to not keep it on that single area, or you will discolor your paint yellow from the wheel. Also, if you don't want this option, you can always use WD-40, spray it on, and it breaks it down, it makes it all puff up, and soft. Easy to take off. But not nearly as clean as the wheel.
    www.youtube.com/ippielb
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  5. #5
    Sr. Apprentice Toolman's Avatar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ippielb View Post
    Worked at an auto body shop. And all we did was take a puddy knife and wedge the badge off. Then we'd take the eraser wheel and giver. It takes it off like no ones business, just make sure not to put too much pressure on it in a single area, and to not keep it on that single area, or you will discolor your paint yellow from the wheel. Also, if you don't want this option, you can always use WD-40, spray it on, and it breaks it down, it makes it all puff up, and soft. Easy to take off. But not nearly as clean as the wheel.
    First of all thanks for the quick replies.... I have one 1500 badge off and at least .125 of goo staring me in the face..... ack!

    Secondly, I've never heard of the "eraser wheel", and it sounds like it may come in handy for my machine work finishing other than tumbling or vibration also. I happen to have a body shop supply house within walking distance and I'll have a look see.

    Thirdly, Sometimes I use an extremely strong double back tape to hold down flat panel, .125 and thinner material to a fixture plate and program the part, machine it, then remove it with WD-40 so I'm very familiar with that rutine and I know it doesn't harm paint as well. When the panel is thinner than .062, I'll use a vacuum pump fixture I made pumping it down to hold the part...just and FYI to other machinist's out there.

    So I am to surmize that the heat gun idea would be a No-Go....

  6. #6
    Legend kgibson181's Avatar
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    Heres a link to a photo album a member did on here about debadging. Should give you all the info you need. Hope it helps.

    http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/album.php?albumid=912

    2003 Silverado 1500
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  7. #7
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    Thanks for that...I had a peak and made some decisions.

    I bought #30 fishing line and already had plenty of goo-off but no plastic putty knife. There's an auto body paint store around the corner and mentioned what I needed to accomplish. He said we sell these things like hot-cakes. It's a plastic coated but soft exterior finish with a metal frame interior scrapper. Uh...ok I'll take one ( $10.95 and the fishing line was 9.95)

    I applied the Goo-Off to all the badges and let it sit for no more than it took to collect my stool and a bunch of micro-fiber towels and paint cleaning materials together. I cut 30" of the fishing line and used my tig welding gloves to wrap the line around and see-saw the badges off. Total time for the remaining three badges was less than 10 mikes. Then, I applied the Goo-Off to all the remaining glued areas and started back at the first one. The plastic "gizmo" was the bomb for removing the remaining glue schmootz.

    All said and done my truck was de-badged-paint cleaned-prepped-waxed in an hour.

    Time for a cocktail....

  8. #8
    Legend kgibson181's Avatar
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    Nice, good work

  9. #9

    Default adhesive removal

    I took mine off along with 8 feet of rocker panel crome I didnt want that was solid adhesive 8" tall! I took my thumb and was able to roll most of the badge glue off, then I got an eraser wheel and it worked good but dont get carried away, I burnt through my paint in a couple of spots. laquer thinner takes the residual right off and doesnt hurt the paint. Denatured alcohol also works.

  10. #10
    Master Mechanic tattooed4life's Avatar
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    zippo lighter fluid--strong enough to remove the go with ease and it won't harm your paint job. Works better than goo gone. We use it on half million dollar prototypes, so I trust using it on my truck.
    1997 Chevy K3500
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