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  1. #21

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    You said you just had the motor out. The flywheel to TC bolts can be checked without sliding the tranny back. Just slide the bellhousing cover back (Duh, you know that). Did you pull the flywheel off the motor? You are probably going to have to move the tranny to check those. But you might take out the TC to flywheel bolts, and slide the TC back far enough to see the flywheel to crank bolts. As I continue to think the crank bolts probably wouldn't cause any noise because the crank/flywheel/TC all rotate together. But if you pulled them, and can slide the TC back, it would be worth checking.
    When you hear hoofbeats, look for horses not zebras.

  2. #22

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    2COR, that was my next move; to remove the inspection cover and just look and see if I can see any obvious signs of anything rubbing/interfering...but like you, as I think about all the bolts...they all rotate together and none "stick out" in a way that could hit anything???

    Also, if it was a bolt in the flywheel/TC area, I would assume the noise would happen in reverse as well since all those things are rotating just the same when I'm in reverse. And the noise does NOT happen in reverse??

    This is leading me to think ever more deeply about the tranny itself. What about being in drive or 1st gear would cause a loud tapping/ticking/banging noise....

    I keep thinking pressure on the shift linkage...would that do it? If the tranny was tilting with the torque and putting pressure on the linkage to shift the tranny out of "drive" while I was trying to accelerate???

    I"ll have to look, I know one of the shift linkage anchor points on the frame was pretty loose and messed up, but never caused a problem before.

    Thanks for all the ideas everyone..keep sending them please!

  3. #23
    Sr. Apprentice
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Weatherford, TX
    Posts
    56

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    Quote Originally Posted by 2COR517 View Post
    You said you just had the motor out. The flywheel to TC bolts can be checked without sliding the tranny back. Just slide the bellhousing cover back (Duh, you know that). Did you pull the flywheel off the motor? You are probably going to have to move the tranny to check those. But you might take out the TC to flywheel bolts, and slide the TC back far enough to see the flywheel to crank bolts. As I continue to think the crank bolts probably wouldn't cause any noise because the crank/flywheel/TC all rotate together. But if you pulled them, and can slide the TC back, it would be worth checking.
    I'll 2nd this possibility...

    I've had loose flex-plate --> torque convertor bolts before, and has similar "metallic ticking". It has also been caused by a cracked flex plate. sometimes, the loose bolts can CAUSE the crack in the flex plate. Easy to check bolt tightness with long box wrench. Good small flashlight can help check for cracks in flexplate.
    '95 1/2 ton Suburban 4wd 350, 140K, w/ tornado and k&n filter | everything else stock

    '89 1/2 ton Suburban 2wd 350, 200+K, completely stock except 31 x10.50 tires & 40 series flowmaster

    '85 1/2 ton Suburban 2wd 350, 250+K, burnt valve :lol: , edelbrock 50 carb, comp cam, silvolite pistons, HiPerf distributor, 18" glasspacks

  4. #24

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    Thanks Drummer,

    Last night I looked under the truck at the shift linkage..and that doesn't appear bound up or anything or that could even really (there are slots at the tranny connection to allow for movement..so I'm starting to lean back towards the flexplate area...I like your idea about a cracked plate.

    I just need to find 5 free minutes to put on my dirty clothes and, crawl under the truck and take that inspection cover off.

    I'm still mistified as to why the noise doesn't seem to happen in reverse? The flexplate would ber rotating in the same direction and experiencing the same forces, right?

  5. #25

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    Solved! I had a torque converter bolt that had backed out as far as possible, and was hitting the front of the inspection cover each time around here is what it looked like...notice the nice semi-circle groove sraped into the front of my inspection cover.


  6. #26

    Default

    Glad you found it. As for the forward only, probably just due to different torque loading vs. reverse. Might be a good idea to double check your bellhousing bolts and motor/transmission mounts.
    When you hear hoofbeats, look for horses not zebras.

  7. #27
    Legend

    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    River Ridge Louisiana-4 miles W of New Orleans-didn't flood-water stopped 800 yards away.
    Posts
    1,612

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    Hey-that is my kind of fix-cheap and quick.


    You used up your automotive luck for several months with that easy fix!!

    Luck
    Charlie
    1998 suburban-
    1/2 ton

    199500 miles
    River
    Ridge,LA

  8. #28
    Sr. Apprentice
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Weatherford, TX
    Posts
    56

    Default

    Good pics! Looks JUST like mine from before, except your plate made it through without the cracks!!! Sounds silly but I felt a tiny swell of pride hearing that we were right about your diagnosis....since I'm only a jr. apprentice and all
    '95 1/2 ton Suburban 4wd 350, 140K, w/ tornado and k&n filter | everything else stock

    '89 1/2 ton Suburban 2wd 350, 200+K, completely stock except 31 x10.50 tires & 40 series flowmaster

    '85 1/2 ton Suburban 2wd 350, 250+K, burnt valve :lol: , edelbrock 50 carb, comp cam, silvolite pistons, HiPerf distributor, 18" glasspacks

  9. #29

    Default

    Yep, few things feel as good as finding the problem and being able to fix it without a single trip to the parts store or to the tool store!

    If I've said it once, I've said it a million times, but I'll say it again: Thank you Thank you Thank you to those of you who take the time to reply. These forums are a God-Send for those of us who demand fixing out own stuff. Without the on-line community to get advice/share ideas with, I'd go absolutely bonkers sitting at work all day haivng to ponder my car problems alone.

    I was due for some good luck, my "daily driver" ford escort wagon dropped a valve seat a month ago, that one didn't turn out as well, had a valve in many pieces in the combution chamber and a chipped piston. My luck continued downward when I broke a head bolt off flush with the engine block while removing the head. it is still in the drivway, I'm determine to figure out a way to get that bolt out...but the patience of my fiance' is wearing thin...

    So I was really in need of a simple, pride-boosting successful repair on one of my other beautiful machines. (if you add the purchase price of all my vehicles, the total is less than most people spent on their single cheapest car!)

    Thanks again! I'll keep trying to return the favor and respond to other posts to keep the chain going!

  10. #30

    Default

    A couple of approaches to that head bolt. Probably the best thing to do is to weld a nut on the top of it. And the rapid heating helps to break any corrosion. Of course you could try drilling and easy out.
    When you hear hoofbeats, look for horses not zebras.

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