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  1. #31

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    Quote Originally Posted by 2COR517 View Post
    A couple of approaches to that head bolt. Probably the best thing to do is to weld a nut on the top of it. And the rapid heating helps to break any corrosion. Of course you could try drilling and easy out.
    Thanks 2COR, I've tried both...there is hardly any material sticking up to weld to but I gave it a shot, then promptly broke the weld with about 2 ft-lbs of effort (not a good welder)...then my welder broke and havn't had a chance to see why it won't fire up.

    The drilling and easy out thing is a no-go as well. I've drilled almost all the way down through the bolt...keep soaking it with PB blaster any chance I get.

    I'm thinking about the freezing thing I saw a can of bolt freeze at O'Rilley...cold would shrink the bolt...maybe creating just enough clearance to get it out with an easy out?

    Ever heard of/tried this?
    http://www.jamestowndistributors.com...ct.do?pid=6585
    Last edited by Big6ft6; 07-31-2009 at 02:35 PM.

  2. #32

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    You can try rapidly heating and shock cooling the bolt to help break the bond. I don't know how effective it will be, the head is going to suck the heat out of the bolt almost as fast as you heat it. You need a good torch, Oxy/Acetylene. Try to get it cherry red, then spray with cold water. Let it cool, do it again. The more you do this, the better your odds of getting it out. Spray liberally with PB, let it cool overnight. You can also try ATF. It's highly detergent, and a good penetrant. The EZ out might work at this point. The bolt will be tempered quite hard at this point, so the extractor is less likely to slip. Tap it with a hammer as you twist it with vise grips. If that doesn't work, you need someone with a MIG or maybe TIG welder, who is very proffeicent. Hopefully the hole you drilled doesn't make it impossible to weld the nut on. Sometimes guys weld a washer on first, then the nut to the washer.

    Also, I read somewhere that SnapOn makes some non tapered straight spline extractors. You drill a specific size hole, and pound the extractor in. Because it isn't tapered, it doesn't push the bolt outwards, which of course does make it slightly more difficult to get out.

    If these fail, I think you are going to need to take the block to a machine shop to have it bored and rethreaded. A salvage motor might be cheaper, I don't know.
    When you hear hoofbeats, look for horses not zebras.

  3. #33
    Sr. Apprentice
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Weatherford, TX
    Posts
    56

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    I'd reccommend the have a professional "weld a nut on" approach. I think it would be cheaper than pulling the motor, etc. I used to work for a machine shop that specializes in heads...we spent lots of time getting broken out bolts, and 9 times out of ten, the nut approach worked flawlessly, and with the least amount of "mess" around the hole. there are quality mobile welders everywhere...usually your local machine shop will have a phone number of a reputable local mobile welder.
    Last edited by rdnkdrummer; 08-04-2009 at 01:08 PM.
    '95 1/2 ton Suburban 4wd 350, 140K, w/ tornado and k&n filter | everything else stock

    '89 1/2 ton Suburban 2wd 350, 200+K, completely stock except 31 x10.50 tires & 40 series flowmaster

    '85 1/2 ton Suburban 2wd 350, 250+K, burnt valve :lol: , edelbrock 50 carb, comp cam, silvolite pistons, HiPerf distributor, 18" glasspacks

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