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  1. #11

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    i know what you mean sounds horrible i cant stand it. try to take off the manifold and maybe one of these [ame="http://www.amazon.com/EazyPower-73610-7-1-Flex-Extension/dp/B00004Z063"]Amazon.com: EazyPower #73610 7-1/2" Flex Extension: Home Improvement[/ame]
    and tell me if it works lol

  2. #12
    Sr. Apprentice
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    mesquite texas
    Posts
    58

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    Thanks for the suggestion, but these are the bits that I have

    and the 1/4" nut drive end I dont think would work with my bit...If i could find something like that, I think that would work. Thanks for your efforts of looking for me, I really appreciate that..
    2000 chevy silverado 1500 LS Longbed Regular cab

  3. #13
    Sr. Apprentice
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    mesquite texas
    Posts
    58

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    I am just thinking I am going to have to bite the bullet and lift my motor and do it that way...I just hope I can unbolt the motor mounts and remove the radiator hoses to have enough clearence..The brake booster is kind of in the way too..I really dont want to have unbolt the tranny from the block..but I dont want to the damage the driveshaft or tranny mount or anything like that..
    2000 chevy silverado 1500 LS Longbed Regular cab

  4. #14

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    believe it or not this is actually an easy fix!! i've got a 2004 z71 suburban with the same problem and i found an easy bolt bracket that remedies this common GM issue and i consider myself only somewhat mechanical. i made the repair over a year ago and to this day have had no issues. i HIGHLY recommend this bracket for the simple fact alone that there was not drilling or extracting it simply bolts on and puts the precise supplemental pressure to the troubled area!! i've also just ordered a bracket for the passenger side on my neighbors newer gm truck and i'm expecting the same simplicity and results this "original exhaust bracket" is amazing!!!! the website is www.kralautoparts.com good luck and enjoy your results!

  5. #15

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    Done many of these, with the right tools there not hard. You'll need a small right angle drill, good drill bit that your not afraid to ruin and a bolt extractor like pictured in previous post above, the right angle drill will fit with the manifold off but you many have to shorten the drill bit to fit within the space. Once you have a pilot hole drilled the extractor will usually take the remaining part of the bolt out. I've had a lot of luck with a left handed drill bit biting into the bolt and spinning the bolt out while trying to drill it.

  6. #16
    Sr. Mechanic poncho62's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    Hanover, Ont, Canada
    Posts
    165

    Default

    Take the manifold off.....If the bolt is just flush, you may be able to weld a nut to it and turn it out....If not, you may have to remove the head.

    [B]1997 GMC

  7. #17
    Legend

    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    everett, massachusetts
    Posts
    1,318

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by poncho62 View Post
    Take the manifold off.....If the bolt is just flush, you may be able to weld a nut to it and turn it out....If not, you may have to remove the head.
    if a bolt is broken using a 90 deg power drill with REVERSE DRILL BIT. using the exhaust manifold to hold/guide the drill bit,, reverse drill the broken stud. using cutting oil for lube and not with much pressure , let the bit do the work. the stud should pull out .if not then you would have to remove the manifold but using the manifold to position the drill bit works best. I will use a small drill bit . place a PIECE OF METAL TUBING IN THE MANIFOLD bolt hole. then drill it out.this makes sure your in the exact center of the broken bolt.

    using bolt extractors these can make the stud harder to remove . these will make the stud get tighter in the threaded hole if the extractor is in the threaded portion of the head.

    when using the reverse drill bit these act like extractors but do not make the stud tighter.

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