

I have a 93 burb. Anybody work with the quick disconnect couplers on the heater hoses? Quick disconnect seems like a misnomer. A real PTA. Do the connectors have to be replaced once they are removed? I've got one on the hose to the rear heater that is leaking.
There is no way to happiness....happiness is the way.
High Desert SoCal
93 K1500 burb (personal) 350 AT 3" Lift 250K+
02 Honda Civic LX
Looking for a 1990's Miata for an engine swap



Not sure what you are talking about.
Are you talking about the one by the dist. on the engine? If so yes it has to be replaced. And your right they are a pain in the ass.
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94 GMC Burban, 5.7L (350), 4X4, Auto
86 GMC Burban, 350, 2 WD, Auto
79 GMC pickup plow truck, 400, Full time 4X4, Auto
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Ok, spent the afternoon on this one. You use a pair of Channellock pliers to release the clips on either side of the hose. Grab the hose, twist and pull. Simple to remove once I got enough crud off the connection to see what was going on. The GM hose has a crimp connection from the metal fitting to the hose. The local Napa store had some plastic replacement part that allowed me to re-connect to the heater hose bung located on the right side of the frame rail. Both heater hoses pass through the frame rail and trail back to the heater core located in the right rear fender panel.
Hope those images post OK. If not follow the link.
There is no way to happiness....happiness is the way.
High Desert SoCal
93 K1500 burb (personal) 350 AT 3" Lift 250K+
02 Honda Civic LX
Looking for a 1990's Miata for an engine swap
NICE!!! exactly what i wanted to hear. Thank you search option!! and thanks for putting up the pics and a how to![]()
2000 Silverado Z71 4x4 fully loaded. 6L Swap, Fully built 4l60E Transmission w/ custom shift kit, intake, Edelbrock headers, custom 3" exhaust, MSD wires, 3" lift, 33" tires, Hypertec Programmer.
quick question did you replace the rear heater hoses? I recently replaced my water pump and replaced the head gasket that leaked water into my engine. Well with newfound pressure in my cooling system my hoses began to rupture left and right. right now it looks like if i have a leak in the hoses that go to the rear heater system and the problem is that the leak is in the part where the rubber and metal crimp. (hope that makes sense) Now with my suburban being 13yrs old and with 226K miles i don't feel like spending big bucks for a new hose and well i don't trust the junk yard ones (b/c they may rupture with the pressure) Now i am wondering if i can just replace those metal pipes that run to the rear with new hoses? or do they have to be metal for pressure purposes? thanks



Wanted to revive this thread as a lot of people search for it.
Steve
02 Chevy Trailblazer LS (110K+ miles - loaded except for 4WD - WRECKED!)
99 Chevy Cavalier LS (105K+ miles - commuter car)
78 Chevy Suburban Silverado (454, 3/4 ton)
62 GMC 3/4 ton Pickup (350 police interceptor)
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I like to get a conventional 5/8" hose nipple and thread it into the intake in place of that quick disconnect, then just use a regular hose and clamp. A lot less worrisome.
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