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Thread: what kinda amp?

  1. #11

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    Well then you an use that kicker amp its fine because if they are SVC then you wire them together on the one terminal it will drop the impedence to 2 ohms which is fine....
    "Assumptions are the mother of all F***-ups.
    |BBK Throttle Body | TBS Spacer | Airaid Intake| SLP Headers | X=Pipe W/ Dual Exhaust Out Side| Goodmark Hood | HID's Heads & Fogs | Pioneer In-Dash| Zapco Reference 200.2| US Amps Merlin MD1D| US Amps XT1600.4| 3 Sets of Component Speakers| Custom Kick Panels| Ten 12 inch Subs| Back-up Cam| Lowered | 22inch Rims| Smoked Tailights| Custom Programming | Color Matched Plastics


  2. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by Kaiser-Wave View Post
    I would go with the kenwood amp not the power acoustik, it would be fine to run the subs at 2 ohm mono u won't hurt them as long as u properly set the gains and lpf etc........after all under powering speakers is the most common way to blow them not over powering
    No offense, but that is the dumbest thing I've heard. You can't blow speakers by underpowering. You can have a 1000 Watt RMS Sub hooked up to a 300 Watt RMS Amp and as long as the gains are set correctly it won't blow.

    If speakers blew for being underpowered then what do you think would happen when the volume was set at 4 out of 20. RMS is just a number of what they can HANDLE continuously. It doesn't mean that you HAVE to power it with the same amp rating.

    Even overpowering won't blow them if you know what you're doing (To a certain level and time). Gains have to be set so it won't clip, electrical has to be up to par, etc.

    It's all about Gains & Electrical System
    Last edited by tech2332; 08-20-2009 at 10:23 AM.
    Silverado Single Cab 2008 Subwoofer/Audio Build - http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/showthread.php?t=26310

    -12" AQ HDC3
    -Custom Downfiring Box Tuned To ~37 Hz
    -Diablo Audio Technologies HellFire 1000.1 (1000 Watts RMS)
    -Pioneer DEH-P5000UB, 4GB Flash Drive
    All In A 2008 Single Cab :gasp:

  3. #13

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    Lol I'm not gunna start an arguing war here, u obviously have no I dea wut ur talking about then, RMS stands for root mean square in otherwords u need 100 watts rms means the amp needs to give the speaker 100 rms if underpowered the speaker doesn't have the effeciency to drve the motor structure and the voice coils will heat quicker to compensate, on the other hand too much power over rms will result in liquidation on the coil and cause the motor structure to seize which can blow the speaker either way, clearly I know wut I am talking about until I see "advanced level MECP" "certfcations" or proof you have been installing for more than 16 years full time don't say it's "all about gains" because u clearly are not correct
    "Assumptions are the mother of all F***-ups.
    |BBK Throttle Body | TBS Spacer | Airaid Intake| SLP Headers | X=Pipe W/ Dual Exhaust Out Side| Goodmark Hood | HID's Heads & Fogs | Pioneer In-Dash| Zapco Reference 200.2| US Amps Merlin MD1D| US Amps XT1600.4| 3 Sets of Component Speakers| Custom Kick Panels| Ten 12 inch Subs| Back-up Cam| Lowered | 22inch Rims| Smoked Tailights| Custom Programming | Color Matched Plastics


  4. #14

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    Sorry for not being so eloquent but I forgot to add that volume has absolutely nothing to do with it, and also a 1000 watt sub on 300 watts wouldn't produce much sound the gain would have to be turned up so high that you would clip and cause distortion which would damage the speaker, I was a little rude sorry about that just needed to give appropriate knowledge
    "Assumptions are the mother of all F***-ups.
    |BBK Throttle Body | TBS Spacer | Airaid Intake| SLP Headers | X=Pipe W/ Dual Exhaust Out Side| Goodmark Hood | HID's Heads & Fogs | Pioneer In-Dash| Zapco Reference 200.2| US Amps Merlin MD1D| US Amps XT1600.4| 3 Sets of Component Speakers| Custom Kick Panels| Ten 12 inch Subs| Back-up Cam| Lowered | 22inch Rims| Smoked Tailights| Custom Programming | Color Matched Plastics


  5. #15

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    It all about the gains! Volume is everything also. You think the a 1000 watt rms amp is constantly putting out 1000 watts rms at every volume level? No it's not.Especially after impedance rise, voltage, etc. The amp gain is there to set it to HU voltage. Yes I know powering a 2000 watt rms woofer with 4000 watts rms will blow it but like I said not if it's for short periods of time and gains are set to not clip and voltage is up to par. Like when you burp in comps. They give subs over twice their RMS and manage not to blow them. Of course over a period of time they will eventually blow/damage.

    The whole point of my argument is to say underpowering does not blow speakers, DISTORTION is.
    When someone stupid hooks up 100 watt amp to a 500 watt woofer and doesn't think it's loud enough, so they turn up the gains is when they send the amp into clipping and thus causing the sub to blow. But if you're smart you can give 1,500 Watts to a 1000 watt woofer daily/safely.
    Silverado Single Cab 2008 Subwoofer/Audio Build - http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/showthread.php?t=26310

    -12" AQ HDC3
    -Custom Downfiring Box Tuned To ~37 Hz
    -Diablo Audio Technologies HellFire 1000.1 (1000 Watts RMS)
    -Pioneer DEH-P5000UB, 4GB Flash Drive
    All In A 2008 Single Cab :gasp:

  6. #16

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    And the speaker's voice coils won't heat quicker if there given "underpowered" power. They will if they're given too much power, or clipped power but not for a little unclipped power. If that were true then at lower volume levels where the amp isn't pushin full tilt it would constantly get hot. But yet if you give it it's RMS it won't get as hot? Yea looks like logic isn't involved in your statement.


    I'm 17 years old, I don't have anykind of degree. But
    I don't need a license to know how to drive, know what I mean,
    Last edited by tech2332; 08-20-2009 at 11:07 PM.
    Silverado Single Cab 2008 Subwoofer/Audio Build - http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/showthread.php?t=26310

    -12" AQ HDC3
    -Custom Downfiring Box Tuned To ~37 Hz
    -Diablo Audio Technologies HellFire 1000.1 (1000 Watts RMS)
    -Pioneer DEH-P5000UB, 4GB Flash Drive
    All In A 2008 Single Cab :gasp:

  7. #17

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    Quote Originally Posted by tech2332 View Post
    It all about the gains! Volume is everything also. You think the a 1000 watt rms amp is constantly putting out 1000 watts rms at every volume level? No it's not.Especially after impedance rise, voltage, etc. The amp gain is there to set it to HU voltage. Yes I know powering a 2000 watt rms woofer with 4000 watts rms will blow it but like I said not if it's for short periods of time and gains are set to not clip and voltage is up to par. Like when you burp in comps. They give subs over twice their RMS and manage not to blow them. Of course over a period of time they will eventually blow/damage.

    The whole point of my argument is to say underpowering does not blow speakers, DISTORTION is.
    When someone stupid hooks up 100 watt amp to a 500 watt woofer and doesn't think it's loud enough, so they turn up the gains is when they send the amp into clipping and thus causing the sub to blow. But if you're smart you can give 1,500 Watts to a 1000 watt woofer daily/safely.


    You ,in a way, just pretty much agreed with what i said other than the fact that the coils wont heat faster if underpowered, look you are young which is cool because our industry needs people like you that are enthusiastic, however i maintain my point i've been doing this too long and with all the gnarly systems i've built i know my stuff. You said that a 100 watt amp to a 500 watt woofer isnt loud enough so you turn up the gains and causes clipping which blows the sub blah blah blah........thats basically what i said but in this case how is it all about "gains and volume?" you contradicted yourself because if i was new to systems and saw what you just said i would assume that since its all about gains and volume then my 100 watt amp would be fine for my 500 watt sub. Also depending on the enclosure made depends on how much power you need, obviously a large ported box doesn't need much power to drive a triple stacked magnet sub because the volume of the air just pushes out with force so the woofer doesnt move as much, but a sealed enclousure needs alot of power to drive that woofer hard because the air has nowhere to go except towards the cone. So my whole point for telling him not to buy the power acoustik is because that amp is nowhere rated where they claim it to be so i told him to go with the kenwood because i knew the power acoustik would have to be gained all the way which would cause clipping and distortion which would blow his subs and cause a raining day on his joyful parade of installing then you came and started an arguement, doesnt matter because i'm still right in the fact that underpowering blows subs because over gaining and clipping i just didnt go into to that before you jumped and opened your mouth . SO ANYWAYS Nickpatton which amp did you end of getting after all?
    "Assumptions are the mother of all F***-ups.
    |BBK Throttle Body | TBS Spacer | Airaid Intake| SLP Headers | X=Pipe W/ Dual Exhaust Out Side| Goodmark Hood | HID's Heads & Fogs | Pioneer In-Dash| Zapco Reference 200.2| US Amps Merlin MD1D| US Amps XT1600.4| 3 Sets of Component Speakers| Custom Kick Panels| Ten 12 inch Subs| Back-up Cam| Lowered | 22inch Rims| Smoked Tailights| Custom Programming | Color Matched Plastics


  8. #18

    Default

    There you go. NOW you're right in SOME parts. A 100 watt amp to a 500 watt amp is not bad at all! A 2000 watt amp to a 4000 watt sub is not bad at all either, That isn't what caused the sub to blow, but the (distortion/clipped square wave) caused by clipping the amp which involves turning up the gain. Which involves "gains/volume"! How can you say I contradicted myself?

    Go to your truck and put your volume on 1/2 and tell me how long it takes for the subs to blow from "underpowering". Don't say it's not the same thing because it is. You actually think your amp is sending it's Full RMS constantly.??

    If you still think a 1000 watt amp to a 2000 watt sub will blow it with clean signal then I hope I'm sorry.


    One of my friends told me to tell you this for your comment on "too little power on a sub will make it heat quicker":

    "Ah, I see what you mean now. So it is kinda like if you are driving 30 mph on a road with a 55 mph speed limit... your car will try to compensate, but being unable to will cause it to overheat and blow up, getting you a speeding ticket?"
    Silverado Single Cab 2008 Subwoofer/Audio Build - http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/showthread.php?t=26310

    -12" AQ HDC3
    -Custom Downfiring Box Tuned To ~37 Hz
    -Diablo Audio Technologies HellFire 1000.1 (1000 Watts RMS)
    -Pioneer DEH-P5000UB, 4GB Flash Drive
    All In A 2008 Single Cab :gasp:

  9. #19

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    alright lets put an end to this i knew damn well what you quoted me on was BS i was just hoping it would make you shut up, anyways this is kinda fun i have nothing against you but again this whole argument started with you opening your mouth because i said the power acoustik amp, blah blah. As i said b4 i have been installing for over 16 years i KNOW what i am talking about you were too interested in making your self look smart so you researched that bogus statement i wrote great job! You think you know so much about audio but you dont besides i didn't have to get someone else to give their opinion! But hey we are all suppose to be friends on here and i do have the most knowledge on 03 to 07 classic body style trucks and i give good feedback, next time try to read something and then put your 2 cents in after you know, im sorry i just think its funny i give you a hint of BS and you go asking someone else's opinion LOL made for a good laugh though. take it easy "tech" and i will see you around bro! P.S. if you need any help wiring ten 12's or 16 10's to get the correct ohms let me kno cause im an "expert" there but thats only cause that's what both my vehicle's have and dont worry they aren't "underpowered" LOL thanks for the good laugh but if i choose to use an "underpowered" amp i'll make sure my gains are kept low, wouldnt want that clipping soundwave to damage my coils! ANYWAYS take care!
    "Assumptions are the mother of all F***-ups.
    |BBK Throttle Body | TBS Spacer | Airaid Intake| SLP Headers | X=Pipe W/ Dual Exhaust Out Side| Goodmark Hood | HID's Heads & Fogs | Pioneer In-Dash| Zapco Reference 200.2| US Amps Merlin MD1D| US Amps XT1600.4| 3 Sets of Component Speakers| Custom Kick Panels| Ten 12 inch Subs| Back-up Cam| Lowered | 22inch Rims| Smoked Tailights| Custom Programming | Color Matched Plastics


  10. #20

    Default

    First of all I didn't research anything, I have ran/researched various amount of tests with amplifiers. I couldn't stop laughing at a "Professional" saying underpowering blows speaker so I told a friend who knows little about car audio but still knows that a statement like that is just brainless. You don't know a cent about me or what I know,

    And I don't care if you invented the first amp, your still wrong on your statement of underpowering blows speakers. Anyone with logic/brain knows that. You might blow speaker with an underpowered amp because you don't think it "loud" enough so you turn the gain up and fu*& up the sub. Then you blame it on underpowering.It's not about keeping the gains low either like you said. Because if the HU voltage sucks then you'll probably have to set the amp gain higher. Yea good job Mr. Master's Degree On Car Audio.

    I don't care about your cheap 100 watt triangle 12"s.There not being underpowered because they only handle 100 watts. Surely wouldn't ask you for help to wire TWO subs.

    Take it easy and make sure to keep your volume up so your subs won't blow from underpowering.
    Silverado Single Cab 2008 Subwoofer/Audio Build - http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/showthread.php?t=26310

    -12" AQ HDC3
    -Custom Downfiring Box Tuned To ~37 Hz
    -Diablo Audio Technologies HellFire 1000.1 (1000 Watts RMS)
    -Pioneer DEH-P5000UB, 4GB Flash Drive
    All In A 2008 Single Cab :gasp:

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