Suspension Maxx on 8 lug K-2500

**X-Hibition** · 08-22-2009, 02:25 PM

So I picked up a set of the Suspension Maxx torsion bar keys and was hoping to get some input on this application, older body 1998 K-2500 big block Sub. I wasn't looking for a big lift, more to address eleven years of natural aging.

Any Sub owners do this?

**X-Hibition** · 08-28-2009, 05:55 PM

So no one has done this? Heard of this? Used this? Watched someone do this?

**Crawdaddy** · 08-28-2009, 06:35 PM

Is the vehicle torsion bar or coil spring? I could have sworn it was coils. If it is indeed torsion bars, have you tried cranking the factory keys up some to get the slouch out? The suspension does indeed sag over 10 years, (try 18 years

) but I think you could get the sag out without replacing the torsion keys. Give it a shot, and let us know what worked!
Chevy Truck Parts

**2COR517** · 08-28-2009, 10:10 PM

If you just want to restore ride height, you should be able to crank your stock keys. Might want to spray some PB on them for a couple of days first though.

**X-Hibition** · 08-29-2009, 12:35 AM

Thanks for the input gang.

Yes, it does have torsion bars(straight, round spring not curly, round spring), and I first cranked them back in 2002 (or so) to level all four corners. Not much, just to make it sit right. Aligned it just after that and never looked back. I never wanted anything to bind from too much cranking.

Now that time has marched on, and I'm about to put on my Hummer 17" rims, I wanted to go with something a little more aggressive than the 265 75 16 (an earlier upgrade) which rub slightly on the inner fender. Hence the torsion key. Again, not looking for a big lift. They advertise 1.5 inches and that is fine. That and a mild re-arch of the rear springs and I'm off for Yellowstone for camping and canoeing.

The wrenching starts tomorrrow. I'll update as I can.

**2COR517** · 08-29-2009, 09:04 AM

I was going to ask what you were doing with the rear. Every Sub and Tahoe I see, including mine, has serious saggy ass issues.

**X-Hibition** · 08-29-2009, 07:31 PM

O.K., for the uninitiated (those who haven't changed torsion keys), that was the most frightening/satisfying seventy minutes of my life.

The procedure I used was from here:
http://www.fullsizechevy.com/forums/...cing-tech.html
which was only slightly off-topic (I wasn't using Ford keys) but walked me straight though it. And I used jack stands. (What a nut..., you'll see.)

You will hear some noises that will make you think more than twice about this, and you will feel pressure on the puller that will convince you that it is about to fly off. Nothing happened except of course for a solid two inch lift. And that was with the adjuster bolt on the key not turned as many times as before. I may back it off just a little bit more because I don't want anything binding.

Leafs are coming off next for a slight re-arch and then the Sub is off for an alignment. This has been the easiest lift I have ever done. Really.

**2COR517** · 08-29-2009, 08:11 PM

What did you use to unload the T-bars? A gear puller like in the pics?

**X-Hibition** · 08-29-2009, 11:39 PM

My gear puller didn't have enough beef and none of the local rental houses had anything close so I went to Sears and bought the same one he used. Lots of Permatex anti-seize on the threads. And on the adjuster bolt,the pocket on the key, and the interior of the key where the torsion bar went.

Suspension Maxx makes a very cool unloading tool that they sell, but it would have been a one time use tool for me so I did without. Also on Trucks I saw them modify a big C-Clamp and do the job, but I'll use the gear puller again. Also I don't know if I could have used their tool on the passenger side. The big block has two exhaust pipes going over the top of the crossmember and it may not have fit. Not sure. But the puller worked well. It did pull some of the curve out of the bottom of the crossmember, but this is a big block 3/4 ton application. I was never more glad to be done with a job...