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  1. #21

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    Quote Originally Posted by jbeall View Post
    Great. And to replace--reverse of taking it off? Or do I need to replace any the clip with a new one?

    If I need to replace the clip with a new one, how do I describe the part I need to the guys at the local auto parts stores? Are they going to know what I'm talking about if I just describe what I'm trying to do?

    -Josh
    If you have a transmission shop close by they will have lots of them laying around as they come in the kits and most shops have extras. Also, there is an O ring inside the fitting that also comes in the kits. Again, a tranny shop will have plenty on hand. I'm pretty sure most auto parts stores won't have the clips in stock but who knows. It is a good idea to always replace the clip because if it's a little stretched you run the risk of the line blowing off running down the freeway. Believe me, that's when it will happen! <G>
    Jim

    2004 SILVERADO 2500HD LS
    Pro Comp Leveling Kit
    285-75-16 Cooper ST All Terrains
    Pro Comp Programmer
    Bilstein Shocks
    Linux Bed Liner
    Tinted Windows



    Other rides:

    1967 Landcruiser <350 Chevy>
    1970 Camaro
    1990 Geo Metro Convertible
    2007 FJ Cruiser

  2. #22

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    Here's a picture of the fitting and how it's laid out:
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Kool.jpg  

  3. #23

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    I think I'll try this procedure on my Bonneville first. If I'm going to mess anything up, I'd like to mess it up on the Bonneville rather than the Yukon XL.

    Although, naturally, I don't *want* to mess it up either place

  4. #24

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    Wether you drop the pan or open a line to change the fluid, a pump like this one will make it an easier job. If you start with clean fluid in the pan the flush will take fewer quarts and if you want to drop the pan and change the filter pumping it out will help avoid the big splash. It's also helpful on diffs and t-cases.


    http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=66418

  5. #25

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Z07 View Post
    Wether you drop the pan or open a line to change the fluid, a pump like this one will make it an easier job. If you start with clean fluid in the pan the flush will take fewer quarts and if you want to drop the pan and change the filter pumping it out will help avoid the big splash. It's also helpful on diffs and t-cases.


    http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=66418
    If I'm going to drop the pan, how would the pump help? Put it down the transmission fluid dipstick and pump out as much as you can before dropping the pan?

  6. #26

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jbeall View Post
    If I'm going to drop the pan, how would the pump help? Put it down the transmission fluid dipstick and pump out as much as you can before dropping the pan?
    That's the idea. I've never enjoyed the pan of ATF draining out and over one edge trick.

  7. #27

    Default

    I also bought this adapter from Summit Racing and a clear hose from HD and getting ready to flush the ATF.

    I have a question.

    What do I do with the return line when I disconnect the top tubing from the radiator? Do I need to plug the open end? Will ATF leak out from the metal tube? Will it suck air? Or just leave it open while draining the ATF from the adapter fitting coming out of the cooler?

    Thanks.

    Quote Originally Posted by IrishBrewer View Post
    I was going to do the same thing but I didn't have a good source for an old cooler line so I bought a Hayden 397 fitting that has the oil line quick connect on one side and a flare on the other. It is easier to access the top fitting so this works out nicely.



    If you have something like this, I wouldn't bother putting in a valve because it is really easy to pop off the top line, attach a fitting and some hose and you're set. Doing it this way, you'll hardly spill a drop for this part of the process. Taking off the pan is another matter.

    Most people have a real hard time getting the drain plug off the tranny pans. I read somewhere that it is a hex head with a taper which is probably why I rounded mine off. Next time the pan comes off, I'g going to weld a real hex nut to it and it will never be a problem again. As it is now, I have to do the old tilt and drain routine and usually that results in an oil bath.

  8. #28

    Default

    I am getting ready to do the fluid flush today. Anybody knows what to do with the metal upper return line from cooler? Do I need to plug the metal tubing or just leave it open and just let the fluid come out of the Hayden fitting adapter thru the hose and container? Thanks.

  9. #29

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    I didn't read all three pages of posts, so this may have already been covered, but... be sure to clean the pan when you remove it! Get all the gunk off the inside of it, because that magnet collects a ton of shavings during normal use over time.
    I like you.

  10. #30

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by janikphoto View Post
    I didn't read all three pages of posts, so this may have already been covered, but... be sure to clean the pan when you remove it! Get all the gunk off the inside of it, because that magnet collects a ton of shavings during normal use over time.
    Thanks.

    Well, I really did not plan on dropping the pan this time. I just wanted to remove the old fluid and replace with new. I will drop the pan after another 5k miles. Just wanted to make sure the transmission will be ok after the flush.

    Got it done this morning. I removed the top metal return line on top of the cooler and attached the Hayden fitting with a clear hose attached to it and ran it to a clean 5 quart motor oil container. I also attached a hose to the metal line that i removed from the cooler and ran it to a bucket just in case it leaks fluid. (This line did not leak fluid at all.) Turn the ignition ON and ran the engine until the old fluid started flowing out thru the hose and into the 5 quart oil container and stopped the engine at the 2 quarts mark. Filled the transmission with 2 quarts of new fluid thru the dipstick tube. Empty the dirty fluid container into a used oil container. Turn the engine On once again and drained 2 more quarts at a time then fill until 14 quarts total have flowed out. Pulled the adapter fitting and hoses, put the spring clip back on the fitting and reinstalled the return line. Replace the plastic retainer to secure the spring clip. Turn engine ON, shift to reverse, neutral and drive a few times, then checked fluid level with engine running. All good. Test drove vehicle and shifted smooth with no issues. I will drive maybe another 5k miles then drop the pan and replace filter and clean pan.


    Tip.
    Before dropping the pan, it is better to suck the fluid first through the dispstick tube with a $8 suction pump you can buy from Walmart and this will make removing the pan a lot easier with very little fluid left to spill. I tried it and it worked.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by bazar01; 02-24-2012 at 10:34 AM. Reason: $8 pump

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