OK so a couple weeks ago I put two JL Audio W3V2s with a 500 watt JL Audio slash series amp in my truck. I noticed a couple days ago while I was driving that the headlights dim every time my subs hit. Is there any way that I can stop this from happening? I have been told that there is something out there that I can plug the amp power wire into that will keep it from draining so much power from the battery, but I can't seem to find anything about it anywhere.
All you need is a capacitor.
2002 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 z71
6.5" BDS Suspension Lift Key'd to 9"
5.5" Lift Springs with 4" Blocks
35" Toyo Open Country Mud Terrain on 18" Ion Alloy 179's
AirAid Cold Air Intake with K&N Dry Filter & AirAid PowerAid Throttle Body Spacer
Pacesetter Long Tube Headers with Catalytic Converters Removed and True Dual Exhaust FlowPro Mufflers 4" Stainless Tips
Bosch +4 Iridium Spark Plugs MSD Ignition Plug Wires
Innovate LC-1 Wideband o2 Sensor x2
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Electric Fan
4.56 Gears
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Jim
2004 SILVERADO 2500HD LS
Pro Comp Leveling Kit
285-75-16 Cooper ST All Terrains
Pro Comp Programmer
Bilstein Shocks
Linux Bed Liner
Tinted Windows
Other rides:
1967 Landcruiser <350 Chevy>
1970 Camaro
1990 Geo Metro Convertible
2007 FJ Cruiser

Capacitors dont really even do anything, from what ive read and seen on my truck. Theyre kinda good when you just have your key switch on and trucks off, and your hearing loud music. It helps your battery not die, and ive seen some of my friends cars, still die out.
I would consider a red top battery or something much better than your stock one.
im running 2 12, 2 amps, 2 TVs, i have a yellow top battery from autozone, and there is no problem with dimming not even when the bass hits really hard.
I plan later on in the future when i bag my truck and get some efans. Im going with a higher voltage Alternator, and an extra battery. Maybe you might want to look into that if you get a big system in there.
Last edited by 2ToNe04; 08-24-2009 at 04:02 PM.
2004 4.8| Custom Paint| Tint| De-badged| Shaved Tailgate| Rollpan| Smoked Tails| Color Matched| Lowered 5/8| Suede Interior| Color Matched Interior| Indash & TVs| Mids-Lows & 2 12" CVRs| 500 & 1100 Interfires| Soundeadener| Outlaw CAI| Magnaflow|
Future Mods: 6.0 LQ4/9| Bags|

You need a bigger alternator or your battery is dying, the amp you are running is not strong enough to pull power from the headlights even at idle.
99 K1500 Suburban LT "THE BEAST"
5.7 K&N & True Dual Exhaust
Hypertech III
05 17" Silverado rims
99 LS 1500 5.3 "THE MULE"
Reg Cab Long Box
285/75/16E Dunlop Rover M/T
___________________________
Jason
Basically the alternator's job is to charge the battery. That's all it does. Any voltage the system needs it takes from the battery. The battery stores the energy until it's needed. If the headlights dim when the amp pulls voltage from the battery the battery is either in a state of discharge or it's capacity is too small for the amp.
Jim
2004 SILVERADO 2500HD LS
Pro Comp Leveling Kit
285-75-16 Cooper ST All Terrains
Pro Comp Programmer
Bilstein Shocks
Linux Bed Liner
Tinted Windows
Other rides:
1967 Landcruiser <350 Chevy>
1970 Camaro
1990 Geo Metro Convertible
2007 FJ Cruiser
Are your add-on devices wired directly to the car battery or the large cable from the car battery using large gauge copper wire?
Wires a like a water pipe. If you have a small water pipe like the small water tubing on the back of a refrigerator and connect a water faucet to this, not much water will come out and there is no way it will supply both the refrigerator and the faucet at the same time.
But if you have a large fire hose size water pipe going there, it would easily supply the refrigerator and the water faucet!
Same thing with wires. Large wires can supply multiple large loads at the same time. Small wires can't.
At an automobile factory, they determine the amperage loads on each circuit, then use the correct size wire for those loads. Then use the correct fuses for the size of wire used.
Wire size table...
http://www.offroaders.com/tech/12-vo...gauge-amps.htm
92 GMC Sierra 2500
in my opinion red tops suck if you want a good and even stronger battery get the kinetik HC1800 however getting the battery isnt going to fix the dimming you need more amperage, i would take out your alternator and run it to a shop and have it rewound to around 180 amps (our alternators can actually go to 220 thats what i did) and you will never have another problem again, although a battery would help after you do that because the kinteik's are specifically designed for heavy battery usage.
"Assumptions are the mother of all F***-ups.
|BBK Throttle Body | TBS Spacer | Airaid Intake| SLP Headers | X=Pipe W/ Dual Exhaust Out Side| Goodmark Hood | HID's Heads & Fogs | Pioneer In-Dash| Zapco Reference 200.2| US Amps Merlin MD1D| US Amps XT1600.4| 3 Sets of Component Speakers| Custom Kick Panels| Ten 12 inch Subs| Back-up Cam| Lowered | 22inch Rims| Smoked Tailights| Custom Programming | Color Matched Plastics

2004 4.8| Custom Paint| Tint| De-badged| Shaved Tailgate| Rollpan| Smoked Tails| Color Matched| Lowered 5/8| Suede Interior| Color Matched Interior| Indash & TVs| Mids-Lows & 2 12" CVRs| 500 & 1100 Interfires| Soundeadener| Outlaw CAI| Magnaflow|
Future Mods: 6.0 LQ4/9| Bags|
I had the same problem when I first installed my system. I upgraded the wiring to 4g for all the grounds and battery connections. The problem went away. I also upgraded to an HO alternator, but I had a problem with it and had to remove it. However, I still did not have the dimming lights, so I believe the wiring was the real fix.
Thanks,
Steve
2011 Avalanche LT 5.3L
Imperial Blue Metallic, Corsa Touring Exhaust, Volant CAI.
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