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  1. #1

    Default Suspension Lift Installation Woes

    Well, might as well ask all my problems here, instead of making a new thread every time. So...

    I have the pickle fork out now for the lower ball joints, but I'm having problems trying to get it under the rubber seal, i don't want to wreck it. These darn ball joints are getting on my nerves, oh and i haven't been able to get the drivers side torsion bar out, the key is really rusted in there. We've taken an air hammer and vibrated the heck out of ourselves and the bar trying to get that darn thing out. Tried a 3lb one hand sledge, and a metal bar to smack the thing out, but still been unlucky. I've soaked both the ball joints and the torsion bars with WD-40 for hours. But still no luck.

    Any suggestions?
    www.youtube.com/ippielb
    2002 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 z71 1985 Chevrolet Silverado k10 2006 Chevrolet Silverado 2500hd 6.6l LLY Duramax
    6.5" BDS Suspension Lift Edelbrock Carb & Polished Intake Manifold & Valve Covers NAPC Race Transmission & NAPC Built Transfer Case
    EFI Live Comp Cam and Valvetrain Snow Performance Methanol Injection
    35" Toyo Open Country Mud Terrain on 18" Ion Alloy 179's Headman Long Tube Headers and True Dual Exhaust FASS 150gph Titanium Series Pump
    AirAid Cold Air Intake with K&N Dry Filter & AirAid PowerAid Throttle Body Spacer 2" Suspension Lift 33x12.50r15 Tires EFI Live & AFE Stage 2 Intake
    Pacesetter Long Tube Headers with Cats Gone True Dual Exhaust FlowPro 3.73 Gears Yukon Grizzly Locker with Mag-Hytec Cover & Traction Bars
    NGK Iridium Tips & MSD Ignition Plug Wires Baja Spare Tire Holder 33x13.5 Hankook rt03 18" XD Rims
    Innovate LC-1 Wideband o2 Sensor x2 HID's all around LED taillights and 3rd brake light
    BDS Dual Steering Stabilizers Pioneer Double-DIN Touchscreen Navigation with Two 10" Subs under rear seat
    Electric Fan Autometer Pressure, Boost, and Pyro Gauges
    4.56 Gears Airlift Air Bag Suspension

  2. #2

    Default

    I don't think you're going to get that ball joint out without destroying the boot. I think you can get boots at Napa, AZ, etc. Put the fork in, and use the three pound hammer on it. You have taken the nut off the ball joint behind the knuckle, right?
    When you hear hoofbeats, look for horses not zebras.

  3. #3
    Legend unplugged's Avatar
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    Default

    The boot is a goner in most cases. When a BFH and a pickle fork doesn't work I like this beauty.
    There is no way to happiness....happiness is the way.:yipi:
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    High Desert SoCal
    93 K1500 burb (personal) 350 AT 3" Lift 250K+
    02 Honda Civic LX
    Looking for a 1990's Miata for an engine swap

  4. #4

    Default

    Well, got my knuckles off, and dropped the front differential! It's out. Now, to cut the differential mounts and weld the little piece of metal they included in the kit for support. Then it'll all be bolting it together!

  5. #5

    Default

    Got the rear cross member on. now to raise the differential again. Easy job now!

  6. #6

    Default

    Can't wait to see pictures! Post some up as soon as you have a chance!
    Michael, 17, CA

    2005 Silverado - See my garage for my mod list
    :great:

  7. #7

    Default

    Well, i've only had time to snap one picture, and wow, was it empty down there. lol

    For all you safety nuts, the truck is lifted from the frame as close as i can with the 20 tonne bottle jacks, plus it's got railroad ties so it can't go side to side and tip over. it's resting on the rear axle on the back with around four 75lb tractor weights, so that thing isn't dropping forward.

    Edit: lol "Safely tie the brake caliper out of the way, do not hang it by the brake line." lol okay lets use some bale twine! haha i'm surprised that it hasn't ripped.

  8. #8
    Legend
    TRPLXL2's Avatar
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    Default

    I give you a ton of credit for doing it yourself and not taking it some where, that is a hellacious job to take on especially when the truck is older like yours and everything has had a chance to get all rusted in place! While you have everything apart are you going to upgrade any of the suspension parts, such as pitman arms or bushings? The only reason I ask is because Energy Suspensions has some nice Poly bushings that are great for lifted truck, being that you don't get all the squeeks and creaking from regular parts.

    Awesome picture though, that is scary when you see the entire truck stripped down like that. I hope you at least marked the parts or took pictures as you took it apart, because I know I would forget what went where!

  9. #9

    Default

    Ah...this pic gave me nightmares from when I did mine.
    2005 Chevy Silverado Z71 in Black

    6" BDS Suspension Lift | 3" BDS Body Lift |17" Rock Crawler Stellies | 35" Cooper STTs | 4.56 Yukon Gears | AirAid CAI and TBS | Flowmaster 40s | HyperPAC Programmer


    2001 TJ Sahara in Sienna

    3.5" RE Suspension Lift | 33x12.50 Baja MTZs | D30/44 | ROKMEN Merc Front Bumper | Warn Rockcrawler Rear w/ Carrier | Warn M8000 Winch



  10. #10

    Default

    X2 on props for doing it yourself...I wussed out and had a shop do it for me. Can't wait to see some more pics.

    Bobby - North Carolina
    2008 4x4 5.3L V8
    6" Suspension Lift and 1.5" Body Lift
    20x9 Ballistic Jesters w/35" Toyo Open Country MT's & 1.5" rear wheel spacers
    4:56 Yukon Gears
    Hypertech Speedometer Calibrator
    Baja style bed mount spare tire carrier
    Flowmaster 40 series dual exhaust
    Recon Smoked LED tails/3rd brake lights/black projectors w/switchback LED's in the corners
    N-Fab Nerf Steps
    K&N CAI
    No Fear Pedals
    Tint, Line-X bedliner, Window visors, Rear wheel well liners
    Painted front grill, bow ties and door badges, de-"lettered" tailgate
    Powder coated front and rear bumpers

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