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  1. #11

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jimmiee View Post
    Here's a picture. The sensor reads the teeth inside the rotor.
    Okay so the entire rotor needs to be replaced?
    Mindi
    1998 1500 Silverado Z71
    2006 YFZ450

  2. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mindi51982 View Post
    Okay so the entire rotor needs to be replaced?
    No, not necessarily. Did your mechanic see a problem or was he just guessing? I would have someone check it that knows how the system works. The best way to check it is with a scanner. With a scanner you can see if the sensor is working or not.
    Jim

    2004 SILVERADO 2500HD LS
    Pro Comp Leveling Kit
    285-75-16 Cooper ST All Terrains
    Pro Comp Programmer
    Bilstein Shocks
    Linux Bed Liner
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    Other rides:

    1967 Landcruiser <350 Chevy>
    1970 Camaro
    1990 Geo Metro Convertible
    2007 FJ Cruiser

  3. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jimmiee View Post
    No, not necessarily. Did your mechanic see a problem or was he just guessing? I would have someone check it that knows how the system works. The best way to check it is with a scanner. With a scanner you can see if the sensor is working or not.
    He was just guessing. He wasn't sure where reluctors were located. He just does general mechanical work for the company. He doesn't have a scanner or anything like an actual dealer at a shop would have. Is that part of the free brake estimates that you can get?

  4. #14

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    You should take the vehicle to someone with more experience with brakes, ABS in particular. You could try a Midas type shop and see if they will scan it for you. If not, look for an independent shop that doesn't have enough parking area for all the cars that need work. That usually means they are good, and fair.
    When you hear hoofbeats, look for horses not zebras.

  5. #15

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jimmiee View Post
    Here's a picture. The sensor reads the teeth inside the rotor.
    That's a picture of a 2wd. I have a 4wd 1/2 ton.

  6. #16

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mindi51982 View Post
    That's a picture of a 2wd. I have a 4wd 1/2 ton.
    The sensor works the same way on your truck. Do you understand the reason for getting a scanner hooked up to your truck? Right now it's just a guessing game.

  7. #17

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    Yeah..it makes sense. I just talked to my bud. He has access to a scanner and is going to take it home with him next week to test drive it and to figure out what's going on with it. So with that issue it wouldn't send out a code right? I have a Hypertech Programmer and it does read codes, but I don't think that would pick up a code since it's an ABS issue?

  8. #18

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mindi51982 View Post
    Yeah..it makes sense. I just talked to my bud. He has access to a scanner and is going to take it home with him next week to test drive it and to figure out what's going on with it. So with that issue it wouldn't send out a code right? I have a Hypertech Programmer and it does read codes, but I don't think that would pick up a code since it's an ABS issue?

    Right. You need a scanner that can read data as well as codes. The data will show each wheel speed. This is how the ABS knows which brake to pulse. If the ABS sees a wheel speed that's slower, then it knows that wheel has lost traction and is starting to skid. It then releases the brake on that wheel and as soon as the speed equalizes it starts braking the wheel. If the wheel skids again it releases and brakes again. You feel this in the brake pedal when that happens.
    Now if a speed sensor is acting up because of a missing tooth, mud, loose wheel bearing or whatever, you feel the ABS come on when braking. If the computer sees different wheel speeds with the brake off then it sets a code for the particular wheel and light up the ABS light.

  9. #19

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    Makes perfect sense. Thanks

  10. #20

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    I was talking to a buddy and I found out the official diagnosis is called....ABS false activation. I may not need to replace the bearings afterall. Most of the time the false activation is caused by corrosion and build up on the sensor. Next weekend I'm going to take it apart and check the o-rings and the sensor. I'll try to clean up what is corroded, while ensuring I leave as much good metal as I can. I was told to make sure i watch the air gap. I'm not sure how to measure that or what it's suppose to be, so I have more research to do yet.

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