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09-10-2009, 09:09 PM #11
09-10-2009, 10:10 PM #12Jim
2004 SILVERADO 2500HD LS
Pro Comp Leveling Kit
285-75-16 Cooper ST All Terrains
Pro Comp Programmer
Linux Bed Liner
1967 Landcruiser <350 Chevy>
1990 Geo Metro Convertible
2007 FJ Cruiser
09-11-2009, 07:31 AM #13
09-11-2009, 07:43 AM #14
You should take the vehicle to someone with more experience with brakes, ABS in particular. You could try a Midas type shop and see if they will scan it for you. If not, look for an independent shop that doesn't have enough parking area for all the cars that need work. That usually means they are good, and fair.When you hear hoofbeats, look for horses not zebras.
09-11-2009, 10:03 AM #15
09-11-2009, 10:16 AM #16
09-11-2009, 10:23 AM #17
Yeah..it makes sense. I just talked to my bud. He has access to a scanner and is going to take it home with him next week to test drive it and to figure out what's going on with it. So with that issue it wouldn't send out a code right? I have a Hypertech Programmer and it does read codes, but I don't think that would pick up a code since it's an ABS issue?
09-11-2009, 11:40 AM #18
Right. You need a scanner that can read data as well as codes. The data will show each wheel speed. This is how the ABS knows which brake to pulse. If the ABS sees a wheel speed that's slower, then it knows that wheel has lost traction and is starting to skid. It then releases the brake on that wheel and as soon as the speed equalizes it starts braking the wheel. If the wheel skids again it releases and brakes again. You feel this in the brake pedal when that happens.
Now if a speed sensor is acting up because of a missing tooth, mud, loose wheel bearing or whatever, you feel the ABS come on when braking. If the computer sees different wheel speeds with the brake off then it sets a code for the particular wheel and light up the ABS light.
09-11-2009, 03:47 PM #19
02-26-2010, 08:15 AM #20
I was talking to a buddy and I found out the official diagnosis is called....ABS false activation. I may not need to replace the bearings afterall. Most of the time the false activation is caused by corrosion and build up on the sensor. Next weekend I'm going to take it apart and check the o-rings and the sensor. I'll try to clean up what is corroded, while ensuring I leave as much good metal as I can. I was told to make sure i watch the air gap. I'm not sure how to measure that or what it's suppose to be, so I have more research to do yet.
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