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  1. #11

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    Quote Originally Posted by j cat View Post
    this post request is FY 2009 .
    ???? what does that mean? Can you please clarify Jcat? Is that a number to search on youtube?

    LoL, I just realized what you meant! I see that the original post was 2009 and someone resurrected it. Well, I hope that he got it fixed by now!!!

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    Quote Originally Posted by James4012 View Post
    Sounds like U joints. I had a 93 that would pop when placed into gear and slight vibrations while driving so I removed the drive shaft and took the caps off the u joints. The stud was worn down and half the little rod bearings where shattered. All you really need to replace them is snap ring plyers, a 1/2 drive extension *what I used, it's about the right size for the u joints* a nice sized hammer and a solid place to place it to hammer it. Course that's the shade tree way. And if you don't know what you're doing it's every easy to bust one of the ears off the drive shaft rather than successfully knocking the u joint out.
    Unless the u-joints have never been replaced. Then they are held in with a plastic that requires melting the plastic to get the u-joint out. I would NEVER hammer on a drive shaft or yoke. Either use a press or a C-clamp with the proper sized sockets to push the u-joints in and out. Hammering them is a good way to bend a ear on a yoke or a drive shaft. Which can turn into an expensive mistake.
    Last edited by Pikey; 03-16-2013 at 10:16 PM.

    1995 Silverado 4x4
    6" BDS Suspension Lift-3" Body Lift-Add A Leaf in rear -Trailmaster SSV Shocks-Duel Steering Stabilizer Kit -AirAid Cold air intake-
    4.56 Gears with Detroit Auburn Locker-Pro-Comp Traction Bars with duel shocks-Aluminum Skid Plate Kit-38.5" x 16.5" Mickey Thompson Baja Claws-Constant Dropping fuel gauge

    2005 Yukon XL Jet Power Programmer, Bilstein Shocks, Bilstein rear springs, Helwig Anti-sway bars, EGR Window Visors, EGR Hood Shield, Denali Headlights, Headlight harness upgrade, GE NightHawk Bulbs, White Night Rear lighting system, Russell Braided SS brake lines, PowerStop Brake pads, PowerStop cross drilled and Slotted Rotors, http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/sho...5-GMC-Yukon-XL
    2002 Silverado ext cab 2wd (Sold)
    2003 Yukon XL (Totaled)

  2. #12

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    Unless the u-joints have never been replaced. Then they are held in with a plastic that requires melting the plastic to get the u-joint out. I would NEVER hammer on a drive shaft or yoke. Either use a press or a C-clamp with the proper sized sockets to push the u-joints in and out. Hammering them is a good way to bend a ear on a yoke or a drive shaft. Which can turn into an expensive mistake.
    That's why I said if you don't know what you're doing then you could easily break one. I've never owned a truck that had factory U joints (nothing newer than a 94). They've always had replacements with metal snap rings. Some of us are just shade tree mechanics here with no formal schooling, lack proper tools for major repairs and just gotta do it the best way possible. I speak only from previous experiences when I give an idea on something. All my mechanical know how is all from being the skinny person in the family that fits behind the fire wall, between the rad and fan, and under the truck. Other than that the rest of my knowledge comes from breaking it apart and putting it back together the same way and reading repair manuals like the bible. I just do it the way I've seen it done :/ Thanks for the new info though =D now if I ever happen to come across U joints like that I won't be like "WTF IS THIS?!" Thanks for correcting me on this though. Could possibly save someone money down the road.
    94 Chevrolet K1500 4x4. 5.7L 350, 5-speed (AKA Betty) Or Rust Bucket...depends on if I'm mad at her.

  3. #13
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    Join Date
    Sep 2010
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    everett, massachusetts
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    1,487

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    Quote Originally Posted by James4012 View Post
    That's why I said if you don't know what you're doing then you could easily break one. I've never owned a truck that had factory U joints (nothing newer than a 94). They've always had replacements with metal snap rings. Some of us are just shade tree mechanics here with no formal schooling, lack proper tools for major repairs and just gotta do it the best way possible. I speak only from previous experiences when I give an idea on something. All my mechanical know how is all from being the skinny person in the family that fits behind the fire wall, between the rad and fan, and under the truck. Other than that the rest of my knowledge comes from breaking it apart and putting it back together the same way and reading repair manuals like the bible. I just do it the way I've seen it done :/ Thanks for the new info though =D now if I ever happen to come across U joints like that I won't be like "WTF IS THIS?!" Thanks for correcting me on this though. Could possibly save someone money down the road.
    I have hammered out u joints most all the time. using a press is very nice I have used this as well. when using the press manual or power you still must support the ear to prevent damage[bent it] using a socket and a torch with a hammer to push out these u joints is not that hard to do. youtube videos are done some quite well with these type procedures. I have seen some damage the ears of the drive shaft with the press. this is because they did not follow directions.

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    fy 2009 means For Year 2009 .

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