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  1. #1
    Broke & Starving Student pmf608 has a reputation beyond repute
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    Default Brake upgrade for bigger wheels...

    I've had my 20's on for a few months now, and in that time have had my brakes completely redone. My problem is that with the 20's, my truck doesn't have enough stopping power from highway speeds and it is dangerous. Even with the brand new brakes, I can hit the brakes at full power, and they wont lock or clamp tight enough to slow me down as quickly as is sometimes needed.

    I know this isnt an abs problem because my abs has NO functionality (wont kick in ever. dont care to fix it though because the problem of kicking in too much is more dangerous). If i lock the brakes on gravel, they stayed locked until i release the pedal.

    Since my new brakes in june, i have had a couple of close calls, the most recent one today where if i hadnt had room to swerve, i wouldnt have the stopping power to avoid an accident. NOW to rant... i was driving down the highway at 120km/h today when the stupid woman in front of me slams on the brakes and turns into a service road to go to the other direction of traffic and go back. The problem - the posted signs that say not to drive there - and for that very reason. I am able to get my truck down to about 70 by the time shes down to about 40 and i swerved so hard when i realized i couldnt slow down enough that my front tires squealed - and they grip well enough that that takes a lot.

    So... what would you suggest for upgrades to help me deal with this problem? Im thinking i probably wont get around to upgrades until the next time the brakes need work because i dont have the money, but i might as well plan ahead.

    2001 Silverado Reg. Cab Not-So-Base -- SOLD
    2003 Avalanche Z71. No Cladding. Time for mods...
    1974 Triumph Spitfire 1500
    1997 F-350. 7.5L. Gas-Guzzling Work Beast


  2. #2
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    canislupis69 is a glorious beacon of light
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    I am looking at the same thing since I am running 35 inch tires on 20 inch rims and have noticed a big difference in stopping power. SSBC makes a real nice big brake conversion kit, but it is pricey.

    Bobby - North Carolina
    2008 4x4 5.3L V8
    6" Suspension Lift and 1.5" Body Lift
    20x9 Ballistic Jesters w/35" Toyo Open Country MT's
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  3. #3
    Jr. Engineer grimreapersshadow is a name known to all
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    well there are a few brands out there baer brakes is one ssbc is a very good one i one of there kits on the front of mine and its great i would also suggest slotted and cross drilled rotors for that extra bite then when your brake lines get old put on some braided lines and that will help also

  4. #4
    Broke & Starving Student pmf608 has a reputation beyond repute
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    thanks guys. as if it wouldnt be delayed enough already to put the money together, i hit a tire on the road last night and im thinking i need to replace my oilpan now - crazy oil leak. anyway, like i said - brake upgrades are in distant future.

    2001 Silverado Reg. Cab Not-So-Base -- SOLD
    2003 Avalanche Z71. No Cladding. Time for mods...
    1974 Triumph Spitfire 1500
    1997 F-350. 7.5L. Gas-Guzzling Work Beast


  5. #5
    Jr. Apprentice Slik is a glorious beacon of light
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    Sorry to hear about that oil leak.

    For future reference, as mentioned above, brembo, stop tech, baer, and ssbc all have big brake kits for our trucks with slotted/drilled larger rotors and brakes. They aren't cheap, but definitely a very noticeable improvement over stock, especially if you're running larger rims/heavier rotating mass.

    Plenty of places to get them from and a fair amount of choices as far as setups, but a few quick references can be found HERE.

    Hope this helps.
    -Slik
    '01 Tahoe LT Air Ride, 23" Foose "Spanks"

  6. #6
    Broke & Starving Student pmf608 has a reputation beyond repute
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    thanks guys. update on my oil pan... i got the truck up on ramps once it cooled off, and the tire i hit put a crack about 1.5 inches long right on the bottom of my oilpan - before bending the angled crossbar thing on the passenger side to match the bent driver side, denting my crappy stock muffler, and scraping my axle right between the shock and the differential (thankfully no damage done there though)

    2001 Silverado Reg. Cab Not-So-Base -- SOLD
    2003 Avalanche Z71. No Cladding. Time for mods...
    1974 Triumph Spitfire 1500
    1997 F-350. 7.5L. Gas-Guzzling Work Beast


  7. #7
    Jr. Mechanic kwconch021 is a glorious beacon of light
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    that tire really did some damage, how fast were you going? this helps me as well bc my rear brakes are drum and i want to convert to discs for the future, bc once i hit about 60k miles [after warranty] my trucks hittin the sky.

  8. #8
    Broke & Starving Student pmf608 has a reputation beyond repute
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    I was doing about 110km/h so about 65mph - and wasnt watching for it because it was on the other side when i had gone the other way, and i was adjusting the heat or something.

    And yea, thats the thing i don't like about the 2005+ trucks or whatever year they changed it. I dont understand why they went back to drum brakes from the 4 wheel disc setup my 2001 has. Could anybody shed some light on this?

    2001 Silverado Reg. Cab Not-So-Base -- SOLD
    2003 Avalanche Z71. No Cladding. Time for mods...
    1974 Triumph Spitfire 1500
    1997 F-350. 7.5L. Gas-Guzzling Work Beast


  9. #9
    Sr. Mechanic vms4evr is a glorious beacon of light
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    Default Pads...

    Before converting to BBK and spending a bucket load of cash.. Try putting in some really aggressive front pads. You can get something like Carbotech Bobcat, Hawk HPS or HP SD. I've used most of the Carbotech and Hawk race pads they make. On track the braking force from really aggressive pads over stock pads is amazing. Same 2 piston caliper with plain rotors. Pads can make a big difference.

    Keep in mind that if you can already engage ABS with your stock setup with better pads. Then you are overcoming the traction of the tires. A big StopTech 6-piston kit is not going to help. You'll just lock the tires up quicker.

    Here is a link to Carbotech pads for Chevy Trucks. They cover most of them. Look at the Bobcat 1521. If you feel really aggressive the AX6 would work but they dust a lot and squeal. Forget the XP series. They are track pads. Their pads do dust but it is easy to clean off. They modulate very well.

    http://www.ctbrakes.com/pads/chevy-trucks.html

    One of my friends is driving a Surburban and towing a 24ft enclosed trailer loaded up with car and everything you can think of. It stops just fine with those Bobcat pads. No need for a BBK.

    The Hawk HPS might be more than enough. The HP Super Duty might work. Never tried HP-SD pads or heard of anyone using them. Hawk does make good pads. I use their track and street pads also.

    I haven't looked for rotors for this truck yet. But don't waste your money on drilled rotors. That is just bling. Slotted is ok but blanks are just fine. As long as they are good quality. I'm going to see if my supplier can find me some DBA rotors for the truck.

    I'm not affiliated with any brake vendor. I just know what has worked for me and what I like.
    2006 Chevy Silverado, 5.3L, Z71, Extended Cab. Tow Mule.
    2002 Chevy Corvette Z06, 5.7L, Slightly Modded. Tow Payload.
    2005 Craftsman Riding Mower, 17hp, light mods.

  10. #10
    Broke & Starving Student pmf608 has a reputation beyond repute
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    Quote Originally Posted by vms4evr View Post
    Before converting to BBK and spending a bucket load of cash.. Try putting in some really aggressive front pads. You can get something like Carbotech Bobcat, Hawk HPS or HP SD. I've used most of the Carbotech and Hawk race pads they make. On track the braking force from really aggressive pads over stock pads is amazing. Same 2 piston caliper with plain rotors. Pads can make a big difference.

    Keep in mind that if you can already engage ABS with your stock setup with better pads. Then you are overcoming the traction of the tires. A big StopTech 6-piston kit is not going to help. You'll just lock the tires up quicker.

    Here is a link to Carbotech pads for Chevy Trucks. They cover most of them. Look at the Bobcat 1521. If you feel really aggressive the AX6 would work but they dust a lot and squeal. Forget the XP series. They are track pads. Their pads do dust but it is easy to clean off. They modulate very well.

    http://www.ctbrakes.com/pads/chevy-trucks.html

    One of my friends is driving a Surburban and towing a 24ft enclosed trailer loaded up with car and everything you can think of. It stops just fine with those Bobcat pads. No need for a BBK.

    The Hawk HPS might be more than enough. The HP Super Duty might work. Never tried HP-SD pads or heard of anyone using them. Hawk does make good pads. I use their track and street pads also.

    I haven't looked for rotors for this truck yet. But don't waste your money on drilled rotors. That is just bling. Slotted is ok but blanks are just fine. As long as they are good quality. I'm going to see if my supplier can find me some DBA rotors for the truck.

    I'm not affiliated with any brake vendor. I just know what has worked for me and what I like.
    alright. that helps. my (not-so-concerned-about-it) brake problem is my abs does not work AT ALL. fine by me, since the common problem is that they engage at low speeds - id rather not have them at all than have that. my tires im more than happy with, the falken ziex s/tz 04's seem to grip nicely, but my brakes are not capable of locking them unless im on a loose surface. in my last close call because of brakes, i actually swerved so hard that my tires squealed from the turn, not the brakes. Unfortunately, the same night, i also hit a tire on the road, busting my oilpan, so that puts brake upgrades just that much farther away - and i have to be more careful. all these close calls are going to get me.

    2001 Silverado Reg. Cab Not-So-Base -- SOLD
    2003 Avalanche Z71. No Cladding. Time for mods...
    1974 Triumph Spitfire 1500
    1997 F-350. 7.5L. Gas-Guzzling Work Beast



 

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